Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Blaflair2 on April 15, 2014, 02:22:58 am
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Well I got some ipe from skarhand, thanks Joshua. The ash had the best grain so I said why not? Used electrical tape for glue up. Easy to use and multiple passed gradually get tighter. I'll let u all know how it goes when I try and clean it up. 60" long 3/16" ash backing. Sand down to an 1/8". What ya think?
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Also don't mine the mess O:) I know where mostly everything is.... Well the important stuff, like my table saw and bench.
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It'll be interesting to see how it comes out.
Sparky tape isn't really strong enough for clamping glue-ups imo. Try going to your local bike shop and ask for the old inner tubes. I get as many as I can carry for nothing.
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I've used the tape before on a practice glue up. The glue line was very good, I'll let u know once I clean it up
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If the glue surfaces are good most types of tape will do the job. I have used the clear tape that Hockey players use to tape their shin pads in place and got an outstanding glueline.
Inner tubes of course are cheaper and can apply more pressure. I just happened to have a roll of the tape at hand.
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Big box stores will sell 2" c clamps for under $2 quite often. I bought 30 of them over a year period. That's all I use for the very, very few glue ups I fiddle with anymore. Just don't tighten them down much more than they need to stay in place. Leave the glue between the glues surfaces and not all over the bench.
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I walk clamps down snugging it up, not to starve it. Then wrap tape pulling tight. It's produced excellent results for me. I have to clean it up still but I'm sure it's gonna be good. I also cut the backing a little narrower than the belly. So when I wrapped the tape it didn't cup the ash. I think that is a big help. I'll let y'all know
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I cleaned up one of the ends, it looks pretty good. It has a little less bend than I put on it. I started building up the handle.
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nice glue lines
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Don't like that Ipe grain orientation. You're likely to get "plate shifting" with the lines running at such an angle.
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All I can do is try
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Thanks jordo. I think it works well
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Good luck.
I am very interested to see how it goes as I have been thinking of doing similar bows, but I've been wondering if the ash can cope with the Ipe. I usually use hickory or bamboo as a backing for my Ipe bows.
I'm very interest to see how you get on.
Matt
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Plenty of Ash Backed Ipe bows out there. Good straight ash is well up to the task.
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Well I got it cleaned up and a few overlays on the handle. Still not floor tillered. It's crazy how much ipe is on the bow and it still very rigid. Does ipe like a more round belly or flat?
Handle overlays are English walnut.
P.s. My electrical tape glue line is a fine looking girl. I think it works well.
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Ok ok fine electrical tape works fine for you...I get it :)
Once you start using more complex shapes during glue-up you'll see what I mean. >:D
Bike shops will give you as many tubes as you want for FREE...I don't know many electrical supply shops who will give me free tape ::)
Inner tubes can be used over and over again. Free and reuseable is a good thing in my book.
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Bike inner tubes is the way to go. They're easy to be found, free, reuseable, better, stronger and faster.
I hope your walnut handle is not going to pop off...how thick is the ash plus ipé in the handle? Also, what glue did you use?
It's looking good so far. Take it slow from this point onwards. Removal of a little bit of ipé can suddenly result in a big loss of draw weight. Sneak up on floor tillering.
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The ash is 3/16" in the handle and the ipe is 1/2". The built up handle is 1 1/4"
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I do plan on trying the inner tubes for my BBO, all I had was electrical tape.
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I had her bending pretty good, it was 57#@19" I should of braced it. I was exercising the limbs on the tree and I got a little too froggy. There was a loud bang and the left limb was Mia. Still haven't found the rest of that little bugger. About 6" from the fade was all there was. What I did find was the ash backing pulled off some ipe when it blew. So my glue was good. Like I said... Shoulda braced it, shoulda stopped at 1:30am... I learned a lot. So I'm not mad. It felt sweet. I have plans for another. White oak backing. Slow and steady. Thanks for the info. I am going with the inner tubes as well, electrical tape works though ;)
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What did you want for final weight? I think pulling it to 57#@19" on the long string is WAY over doing it. You're asking way too much, way too soon. Your limbs weren't likely bending much over their entire length yet. I'm guessing you hadn't reduced your thickness taper much and it blew right where it was doing all the bending... right at, or near, the fades. I think your glue up would likely have survived, had you been more patient. But, it sounds like you've learned a bit, and I know I learn more breaking bows than making ones that turn out. Back in the saddle, asap!
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I was going for 60#, it was bending nice. Stuff happens. I know I shouldn't of pulled it that far. I was always told not to pull past ur target weight. So I thought that'd be ok.
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You shouldn't pull it past target weight when actually strung, not on the long string.
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Exactly! It's not ready to pull to target weight, even with a low first brace! You have to get enough limb working, before you can stress it to a draw weight that high.
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Live and ya learn, thanks guys. I'm already dreaming my next try up. Haven't got the courage to try my bbo yet.
If I wanted a bendy handle lam bow how thick should I start with? Possibly a tri lam
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For bows up to about 60#, I make my ELBs 72" long, 1.25" wide, and about 1" deep.
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For bows up to about 60#, I make my ELBs 72" long, 1.25" wide, and about 1" deep.
With an ipe belly?!? Holy smokes! 1 1/4 wide and an inch thick will give you a 100#er!
A 60# er, 72 inch with a bendy handle wouldn't need to be more than 7/8ths thick at the handle.
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I didn't say with just an ipe belly.... and that's total thickness, with backing, (core if it's a tri-lam), and belly wood. Sure, if it's ipe, you can go a bit thinner, but it only takes a few more minutes to remove enough ipe to reduce tiller to desired thickness for less weight.
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For bows up to about 60#, I make my ELBs 72" long, 1.25" wide, and about 1" deep.
With an ipe belly?!? Holy smokes! 1 1/4 wide and an inch thick will give you a 100#er!
A 60# er, 72 inch with a bendy handle wouldn't need to be more than 7/8ths thick at the handle.
its always easier to take wood off than put it back on, right ;)
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Yup, you can take it off... but yah can't put it back on. ;)