Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Del the cat on February 10, 2014, 02:29:36 pm
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I'm making myself a Hickory backed Yew ELB/Warbow.
I got some Yew with rot in the sapwood so I've ripped that off. I have a nice thick Hickory lam' given to me by a bowyer buddy.
Hickory soaks up the humidity, so I've heard, does this mean a Urea style (powder and water) glue is a bad thing, or do I just need to make sure I get it nicely warm and dry before tillering/ final finish?
What finish is recommended for Hickory to keep the damp English climate out?
While I have your attention what should I cook for dinner tomorrow night? >:D
Cheers in anticipation of the usual helpful respons from you guys :)
Del
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Make that hickory thin Del and the moisture will have lesser effect on it. Try for 3 mm or so. As far as the glue absorbing moisture and releasing, I have no experience with that. I use TBIII.
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most all of my glue ups are tb2 or 3, never had a problem though I imagine you have a bit more humidity there, I would have to defer to someone in a more humid area but if you can hotbox it I would think it would be fine
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Del, the urea type glues(Urac, Weldwood Plastic Resin)will work fine. Once it cures it is impervious to moisture. TB glues work well too.
I cut hickory backing strips at 3/16" and by the time I dress both surfaces it comes out to about 1/8" or less.
How about bangers and mash and maybe some spotted dick. ;)
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You only need to worry about hickory and rh when its the belly and not the back IMO...especially when appropriate belly woods that perform well in higher rh climes...like osage,yew,ipe etc...and I prefer two part epoxies for my choice of glue over the titebonds etc....
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Thanks guys, some V helpful stuff there.
Del
PS. Onion gravy with the bangers and mash methinks :laugh:
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i like to rough up my pre lams with a brass wire wheel 'wash down with acetone and tb3.
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I prefer two part epoxies for my choice of glue over the titebonds etc....
Care to elaborate on that? Just curious why.
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Likely because tb3 HAS to have perfect mating surfaces to get the best bond. For tb3 there must be no gaps, nada, nil, zilch.....or if you haven't got a drum sander that translates to a real pain. Use something like resourcinol, urac etc and you can cut 1 hour of prep time off each lam b ecause they don't have to be super perfect.
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I guess I have been lucky with my use of the titebond products for backings, so far. I generally get my surfaces as flat as I can with 40 or 50 grit sandpaper and glue them up which is the same way I do with epoxy. Actually, the first few I made I glued up straight from the band saw with no other prep. The only failures I have had, so far, is with starved glue areas where I tried to clamp in a bend except for one splinter that did not appear to be related to the glue line. I have noticed some creep at the fades when using the TB products for belly lams and prefer the unibond 800 for them, now, and for kerfing in reflexed tips. I have noticed that letting the TB set for more than just the 24 hrs that it recommends is best. Sometimes I may not touch a glued up stave for a week.
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I prefer two part epoxies for my choice of glue over the titebonds etc....
Care to elaborate on that? Just curious why.
Sure...simply said they're a superior glue compared to the titebonds...and even with them I still aim for flawless glue lines,and I don't just use it to be lazy....I hate seeing clearly visible glue lines