Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Zack C on February 04, 2014, 09:49:42 pm
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Hey guys I'm about to start my second bow I'm going to be making it out of a red oak board I selected along the specs in the bowyers bible. The first was hickory I split myself but I'm waiting till august to cut more so this is the project till then! My primary question is does anyone have any experience recurving board bows and should it be done? If so tell me your method.The specs I have drawn out are 65 in in length with a 5in grip and 1 7/8in in width fading to the tips. I'm going to sinew back it from the start to protect from splinters. Anyone see any problems with this plan? I would love all the feedback I can get.thanks,
Zack
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My experience with bending red oak boards was not great, steam bending that is. But I have heard of others, and have seen bows recurved, so it can be done. I don't use a form to create my bends though, so that may have been part of the problem. I steam then just bend over my knee. I have recurved plenty other types of wood board bows though with no problems. Good luck, and I'm looking forward to seeing this bow. Post up some progress pics for us.
Tattoo Dave
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Thanks Dave, I'll do some progress pics as I get it moving. And maybe look into making a form
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I've made several red oak board bows but never heated one. I'm interested to see if you have any luck with it. I'm working on one now that I wouldn't mind adding some reflex to. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Best of luck man!
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I have never tried to bend red oak either but I am interested in what you find out. If you give it a try let us know how it goes.
Mark
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I have bent red oak with steam quite successfully. Sinew on red oak is a no no. Red oak with a hickory backing needs to be trapped. So I see sinew being way too strong. Just my two cents
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What do you mean by trapped?
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Make the back slightly less wide than the belly. Sorta a trapezoid. Hence the word trap
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yes you can recurve red oak! I would reduce the ends down to 1/2" thick, boil each tip for an hour and then bend it over a form. I wouldn't bother with sinew backing, instead just make it wide and back it with burlap or nylon.
Once the tips are boiled and have dried, glue on a 1/16" thick piece of wood onto each recurve. It helps hold in the curve and makes the bow look classy.
The recurve below is from red oak using the method described.
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That's awesome, did you make your form? How should I make one if so??
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Yes I made my own forms. The form pictured was made from four pieces of 1/2" plywood, but you can use a 2x4. Make sure your form is wider than your bow limb so you reduce twist when you bend it over. Make two so you can leave them in to dry.
A U-bolt and some wing nuts do a superb job of securing the tip and are easily and quickly adjusted to fit a variety of limb widths.
Hope this helps, please PM me if you have any more questions.
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I have bent red oak with steam quite successfully. Sinew on red oak is a no no. Red oak with a hickory backing needs to be trapped. So I see sinew being way too strong. Just my two cents
??? Would you care to elaborate on that 2 cents? Sinew is to strong for red oak? :o. How so? Josh
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Sinew can go on anything. It's not "strong" in the sense of overpowering a belly at all.
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yes you can recurve red oak! I would reduce the ends down to 1/2" thick, boil each tip for an hour and then bend it over a form. I wouldn't bother with sinew backing, instead just make it wide and back it with burlap or nylon.
Once the tips are boiled and have dried, glue on a 1/16" thick piece of wood onto each recurve. It helps hold in the curve and makes the bow look classy.
The recurve below is from red oak using the method described.
Fantastic bow Victor.
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Thanks PEARL DRUMS!
ZACK C, let me know how it turns out!