Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: osage outlaw on January 22, 2014, 10:07:44 pm
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I've got this thin belly split that I chased a ring on tonight. I'm not sure which way I want to go with it. It will have to bend in the handle. The total length is 71". The straight end is 52" to the line drawn on the swoop. Its around 3/4" thick for most of the way. Its about 2" wide except for that shaded area about halfway down the straight part. There is a crack there and it will have to be removed. It will leave a width of 1.5"there. The back is very flat and there are a few spots where it is slightly concave.
Here are a few ideas that I've tossed around.
1. Cut it to the mark at 52" and make an unbacked D-bow
2. Cut it to 52" or slightly less and sinew back it.
3. Make it longer and leave the swoop in it. (least favorite)
If I cut it to 52" I could narrow the grip area and have it centered on the damaged spot so I could still get 2" wide limbs if I wanted to. I could make kind of a paddle shape bow. Or I could make it narrow the entire length. I just can't decide which way to go. I'm open for suggestions.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16112.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16113.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16114.jpg)
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personally I would do a short bendy handle that's unbacked. 52" should be plenty long for your short draw. Sinew would just be an unnecessary hassle in my opinion. Can't wait to see her finished.
Jon
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personally I would do a short bendy handle that's unbacked. 52" should be plenty long for your short draw. Sinew would just be an unnecessary hassle in my opinion. Can't wait to see her finished.
+1
You could still narrow the handle slightly get rid of the crack and still have a bendy handle. If you could get away with2" limbs that's what I would go for. Can't wait :)
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At 52" long the 3/4" thick handle won't flex, A little recurve would be nice, you could glue on more handle. If you want to make a narrow bow maybe just flip the last 6" a bit.
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52" unbacked bendy handle for a 25" to 26" draw is what I would do. 1- 3'16" to 1- 5'16" wide for middle 1/3rd of limb gently tapering to 1/2" tips. Rectangular cross section, heat bend in about 1" or more of reflex and gently flip
last 3 inches at tips. Low 50's draw weight. A solid hunting bow Clint. ;)
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That back does look board flat, and that is one wicked wiggle! Interested to see what you do with it.
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Well, tomorrow it gets cut off at the 52" line. I'll look things over again and try to figure out the best way to go. I'll definitely flip the tips on it. I'm not sure if I have enough length for a non bending handle.
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Clint you have enough length if you sinew it, make a nice plains horse bow flip the tips sinew it, be a sweet little bow, little horsehair on the top, you could use donkey instead of horse
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The Donkey is a bit of a sore subject right now Bubby
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Glue on a handle, cut it down to 48" -52" and glue in v spliced siyahs. You won't be disappointed.
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The Donkey is a bit of a sore subject right now Bubby
Yikes!! Sorry about that Clint but you had to know he would be a pain in the arse
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52" pyramid style. Narrowed handle and use as much width as you can. While I'm thinking about it, just send it my way and you won't have to worry none no more. That sounds like a good plan to me anyway. ;)
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Should I include return postage Jon? :)
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Guess it all depends on what you'd want to use your sinew for. Nothing wrong with a self 52" bend through the handle Osage bow with a little tip flipping. I love shooting and carrying those.
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Yeah that would be good Clint. That way I wouldn't be tempted to hang on to it for a while. :)
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
PatM, siyahs are not something I'm ready to attempt at this point.
JonW, I might have to take you up on that offer one day ;) I think I'll keep this one and see what happens with it.
I cut it off at 52" and went with a 1 3/8" width for right now. It will be a little narrower than that once its done. I tapered the last 10" of each limb down to 1/2" tips. I kept the handle full width for now but I would like to taper it down some once I start tillering. Due to the crack I shifted my center line over.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16115.jpg)
Since my band saw is broke at the moment I used my draw knife to take it down to lines. I was able to remove all of the damaged area. I've started thinning the limbs. I might be able to get it on the caul today if things keep going smooth.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16117.jpg)
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That's pretty much what I started with on Gus' R/D he just got to close the 13' swap.
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Looking great man are you planning a follow along?
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Wow! Last night a stave, today a bow. Lookin' good.
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Unbacked flipped tips sounds and looks good Clint. Or, you could do a sinew backing tutorial at Moontree ;D Ozzy would agree 8)
Tracy
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You really shouldn't be intimidated by extending a bow with siyahs. Very easy to do and opens up huge possibilities for shorter staves when you don't actually want a short bow.
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I'm not exactly a tall person PatM. My full draw is 24"-25". I have been able to make some pretty short staves work for me. I have a good stave collection so if I want something longer its not a problem. And to be honest, glued on siyahs don't really interest me. Laminated bows don't do much for me either. I have absolutely no desire to make one. I don't have anything against them. I enjoy seeing the beautiful laminated and more detailed bows that are posted. Selfbows and natural material backed self bows are what I am in to. Later down the road my interests might change but for now I'm a simple meat and potato bowyer.
Tracy, I might be able to do a sinew demo at Moontree if anyone wants to see it. I'll have to get another one ready for it.
IdahoMatt, I hadn't really planned on a follow along but I can if anybody cares to see it.
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Its on! Good looking starting profile there Clint. 52" unbacked and bendy handle, its osage and you know it can handle it. Unless of course your one of them long armed goons that draws 29-30". :D
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Its on! Good looking starting profile there Clint. 52" unbacked and bendy handle, its osage and you know it can handle it. Unless of course your one of them long armed goons that draws 29-30". :D
I don't know if we got a chance to meet at the Classic. If we had you would know I don't draw anywhere near 29"-30" ;D
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We met. I know your a short drawing guy like me, 25" is a good day for me. I don't think I have short arms, just a hunched over shooting style I guess. :o
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I for one Clint would be very interested in a follow along. I get a lot out of watching how others tackle different issues. Be cool to see what you do with this and how you gonna do it.
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Clint
Like the road you took on that stave.... I'm going to put that one in the memory banks. as far as the sinew back tutorial at Moon Tree, I'd like to see it. I do see more sinew back bows in my near future. :)
DBar
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Sounds like I better pound some sinew out and pick out a nearly done stave to sinew at Moontree. Been a few moons since I sinew backed one.
Tracy
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Do it TRACY! I think that would be great!
Thanks
DBar
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Sorry BB. It takes me a couple times meeting someone new to remember down there. You meet so many people its hard to keep them all straight.
Slimbob, I really enjoy following your recent rescue post. I'll post a few pictures along the way.
Tracy and Bill, sounds like a plan. I'll bring my supplies.
I thinned the limbs and narrowed the handle. It is bending when pushed on the floor.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16121.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16124.jpg)
I might have went a little to narrow on the grip. I think it might work out once I get the limbs thinned down some more.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16123.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16125.jpg)
I only have one caul so I had to use a lot of spacers to make it work. The three middle spacers are the same height. The rest gradually taper down. I tried straightening out the twist and bend on the one end. Tomorrow if it looks OK I'll flip the tips just a little.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16128.jpg)
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Atta boy Clint! Show that stave who's boss!
Once the whoopty section was removed that stave really straightened out. It should be mighty nice for tillering. Betcha this bow is a performer.
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OO's Quote... "I might have went a little to narrow on the grip. I think it might work out once I get the limbs thinned down some more. "
IMO...I don't think so after seeing a holding that thin handle osage bow you had at the Scottsburg shoot. That one was sweet and I'll bet this one will just like it.
DBar
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Wow, making short work of it.
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Bill, that grip was 3/4" x 3/4". It was sinew backed though.
Parnell, its freezing and there is snow every where. There is not much else to do but work on bows. Two space heaters keep my shop a toasty 70 degrees.
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I love these follow alongs. Looking great keep it up :)
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I am enjoying this build along Clint. I like what you are doing with this stave. Bet it makes a good hunting bow.
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Wished I couls see the pictures,don't know whats up getting a lot of this lately. :-\ >:( Sounds good tho. ;) ;D ;D
Pappy
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Looking good Clint. I think you're good on your handle once everything else catches up to it. That's going to be a good treestand bow when you're done :)
Tracy
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Nice work so far Clintster.
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Looking good Clint can't wait to see it finished.
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You're off to a good start! I'm lookin forward to watching the progress! Josh
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I wish I had a short draw >:(
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I don't know whats up with the pictures Pappy. There is one computer at work that doesn't show pictures. Must be some sort of setting screwed up.
I pulled it of the caul this morning and I was happy with how well it held its shape. I removed all the clamps and it stayed put. The one tip straightened right out except for the last inch or so that kind of dips down just a little.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16129.jpg)
I took the belly down to a single growth ring on the tips and did a gentle flip with dry heat. That last inch on the tip just doesn't want to straighten out. I'll try to fix it with an overlay.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16131.jpg)
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Looking good. How much is the handle set back?
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I didn't measure it Slimbob. Just guessing it was somewhere between 1"-2"
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Yes Sir!
Looking Good...
I'll be watchin'?. :)
-gus
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Coming along nicely, Clint. Is that a sister stave to the one you gave me? The bends look to be in the same area.
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I don't know if its a sister stave Pat but its at least a cousin ;D
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I've got one I need to sinew.guess i'll be pounding out some for moontree.see ya there guys.
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I'm about 4 pages late getting in on this post. WHAT'S SO FUNNY, is I was thinking about attempting (for the 2nd time) sinewing that little 49" ntn "S" shaped stave at Moon Tree Gathering. So, it sounds like we're going to have hide glue all over the shop. GRIN
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Sounds good Steve and Dave. And don't worry about a mess from me Dave. I keep a plastic table cloth in my supply kit. I do my sinew work on the kitchen island when the wife is at work so I know better than to leave a mess.
I flipped the other tip tonight. It went much easier than the other one.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16134.jpg)
I went inside for a few minutes and when I came back out to the shop I noticed a crack had developed. It goes at least another inch to the left in the picture. I filled it with thin superglue 3 times. It looks like it stays straight in the tip. I can always add a sinew wrap if I need to.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16136.jpg)
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bows,sinew and big bore handguns.sounds like my all time dream.see you there guys.
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Looks like it is right in the middle, shouldn't be a problem at all :)
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Clint, I'm knot worried about a in "my workshop" haha
Clint, this is just MHO and other will, maybe disagree. When I do a cut in handle in a bendy handle bow I like to extend the fade 3 to
3 1/2" That way the step down isn't quite as abrupt. I have been told once that you shouldn't/couldn't do a bendy handle bow with a cut in handle. But isn't that what a paddle bow is? And I've shot probably a dozen such bows (not build by me). And, I have one that I'm finishing for Brian that is just that style. I gave him that bow last August, but I didn't get the "finish" on it before he needed it to practice with before our annual primitive bow hunt in Sept. Now, I just need to apply the lipstick. Granted it doesn't bend a whole lot in the handle, but you can see it bend in photos and feel it in your hand. Just a suggestion.
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Good work so far, I wouldn't be worried about the crack. The super glue should do the job.
Can't wait to see more ...
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Clint,
I've got about five or six checks like that in the belly of the sinew back osage I'm working now. I filled them with super glue and hope not to have problems.
I agree with everyone else can't wait to see more. Really like these types of posts.
Thanks
DBar
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Watching with interest, I currently hunt with a similar bow.
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Its lookin good Clint! Dave, I know alot of fellas that do the narrowed bendy handle and there are several museum examples of it having been done on selfbows as well as the Western sinew backed ones. whoever told you that was misinformed to say the least. BTW, I really wish I could make it to Moontree. Big bore hand cannons, bows and who knows what else, man that sounds like fun! Josh
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very nice. thanks for doing this!
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Hey Gun Doc,
I must have missed you at the last Classic. You have got to make it to a Moon Tree.... Dave's a great host and the guys that show up......well you know.. ::) are a great bunch. Come hang out with us , sounds like some sinew'ning going on this year, I'm hoping to add a snake skin to the sinew backed osage I'm work'n on now.
By the way............. come on Clint, post some more pic's of that bow it's the weekend, I know your working on it. >:D :) :)
DBar
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Bill, I'm working this weekend. I won't get to work on it until Tuesday at the earliest.
Josh, you would fit right in at Dave's place. Can't you plan a route through central KY around that time?
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Been following this thread. Interesting bow. That crack won't kill it will it? Can't wait to see the completed project..
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Josh, it would awesome if you could make it to gathering. You know you have an open invitation here, anytime you're in the area. And, I agree cut-in handles on bendy handles bows are quite doable. But, I would advise a long fade area. I did one that was 1 1/4" long going from 1 wide handle to nearly 2". It did splinter at the fade. Now I do 3" of fade with no problem. And I like the additional sight plane.
Again, it would be great if you found yourself in Central KY the last weekend in March.
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I sure hope it doesn't Mohawk.
I took the clamps off this evening and looked the crack over a little better. It doesn't go all the way through to the back. I filed all the excess super glue off and filled it again.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16139.jpg)
The finished profile. I might have to do some more tweaking to it later.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16137.jpg)
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Hmm. . . as I recall, I think I just may have several 52" staves seasoning out in the building. Hmm.
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I wouldn't give that crack a second thought Clint. She's shaping up quite nicely. I really wish I could come hang out at the moontree. Unfortunately Richmond isn't on one of my normal routes. Not only that, but there's still the matter of Missus Doc to deal with. I reckon I'll just have to wait til May to hang out with you fellas. At least I've managed to soften her up on the Classic. Josh
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That's looking great off the form. Nice work Clint.
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Josh, It's good you'll be at the Classic. I need help keeping an eye on things at night until the Breakfast crew gets up. :laugh:
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I didn't get much time to work on it today. I got the overlays glued on. I had some problems getting a tight fit. I'll shape them tomorrow.
I like to use old stuff in my bows when I can. I had some junk wooden golf clubs that I took apart and salvaged what I could from the heads. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is. I know some were persimmon and hickory I think.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16142.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16143.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16144.jpg)
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8) Idea Clint, I think your right most were made of persimmon.
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I've been hot glueing a stick on mine before sanding, I think it helps get equal pressure when sanding flat and gets my fingers away from that fifty grit
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My joints are never great. I struggle getting them to mate up well.
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Great Idea with the golf club...I am digging that!!!
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I've been hot glueing a stick on mine before sanding, I think it helps get equal pressure when sanding flat and gets my fingers away from that fifty grit
That's a great idea. Wonder why I didn't think of that?
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I had a little crack like that develop in my 70" Osage I'm working on. I think there was some kind of imperfection in the wood and then reflexing brought it out with the heating. Aggravation. I did the same with super glue and don't think it will make a difference but it is annoying, isn't it?!
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Josh, It's good you'll be at the Classic. I need help keeping an eye on things at night until the Breakfast crew gets up. :laugh:
Dave, its a tough job, but somebody's gotta do it! Lol!
I'm looking forward to seeing them tips Clint! I believe you've shown me one good use of golf clubs if nothing else. Lol! Josh
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Clint, the sinew should be cured in time to tiller at Moon Tree. Or has it already cured? If that's the case, I look forward to seeing on the 10 ring arrow it shoots.
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No sinew on this one Dave.
I only got a few minutes to work on it yesterday. I only had time to rough shape one tip. It is still pretty wide. I'll do the final shaping after tillering.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Snapbucket/2E7E7664.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Snapbucket/CA1F6ABB.jpg)
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looking good so far Clint,
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Thanks Bubby. I'm hoping to start tillering this weekend.
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I like that tip/nock style Clint!
Tracy
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Coming right along! Looking good.
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It's coming right along Clint.....can't wait to see her all dress up.
DBar
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Looking good Clint hope to see it at a shoot soon :)
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No sinew on this one Dave.
I only got a few minutes to work on it yesterday. I only had time to rough shape one tip. It is still pretty wide. I'll do the final shaping after tillering.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Snapbucket/2E7E7664.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Snapbucket/CA1F6ABB.jpg)
I get so confused sometimes. haha haha
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I got the other tip rough shaped and started tillering. Currently its at a very tight zero brace height.
45lbs @ 15"
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16171.jpg)
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Looking good. Have enjoyed following this build.
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glad this popped back up, what draw length are you shooting for Clint
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Looking good Clint............... that tillering tree looks like my first one I made with blue painters tape and pegboard, then l painted the blue on it and got ride of the tape (it keep coming off). Great minds must think alike, ;D because I can't remember if I saw yours before I made mine. But if I did I must have really like your design because they look a lot alike. :)
DBar
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Thanks Mohawk and Danzn Bar.
Bubby, I'm aiming for 45 lbs at 24"-25".
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Shaping up nicely Clint. I think we'll be seeing that one finished up soon, looks like your just about there.
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Looking great man. Keep em coming :)
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Tiller looks great and loving the profile and poundage!
Tracy
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I've been stalking the tiller on this thing today. I have it to a 5 1/2" brace height.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16179.jpg)
And here is 45 lbs. @ 19". Tiller critiques are welcome :) I think I need to get the outer third of the limbs bending a bit more.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16183.jpg)
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i dont think it can get any better then that clint.
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Nice job man that bend is coming together.
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I agree, the outers could move some, bub
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Looking very symmetrical to me.
Tracy
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Looking good man, can't wait to see it finished off!
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I would get the outer limbs bending a little. Six more inches to go. We're pulling for you. :)
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I got it down to 45 lbs @ 21" before I had to stop today. Those outer thirds don't want to bend much. I might narrow them a little more.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bow%20stuff%202013/SDC16186.jpg)
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It might just be an optical illusion, but is there a stiff spot or knot on the right limb at the intersection the second square over and one square down?
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Almost there Clint ! I see the outers now but not not sure it's an issue at 21". Now I want to build one with this profile, I like it. :)
Tracy
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That's looking sweet!
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Thats lookin purty good Clint ;).. My son got me a 52" by 1 1/8 osage stave at Pappy's last year..so far ive deflexed it inda handle abit and flipped the tips slightly..lookin forword to seein yours finished to give me hope, lol.... Brian
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Lookin very nice Clint. Danny
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Thanks guys :)
Dave, It could be a tad stiff there. I just checked the limb and there is a bumped up pin knot on the edge of the limb there that might make it look a little funny.
I'm hoping to ease it on back to full draw Tuesday. That is my next day off work. I got an experimental backing in the mail today. I might see how it looks on this bow. Its thin cotton fabric with a snake skin pattern. The bow on the right is a real WDB skin. I hope it looks good on a bow. 6 backings for under $8 isn't bad.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Snapbucket/0EDD9B8C.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Snapbucket/925EF4B3.jpg)
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Sweet pattern! I think I'm going to stop by my local fabric store tomorrow.
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Clint, it's looking really good. I can see difference between 19" and 21". You are definitively not "chasing a tiller" on this bow. You're just tweaking it to perfection. Did you narrow the tips or thin them?
You're the one who can see and feel the bow. Follow your gut and your knowledge. I (we) are just armchair quarterbacks. So here's my armchair quarterback suggestion. The right limb just past the pin knot is bending more than the knot is. I wouldn't touch that area for a bit. If you can get the pin knot area to bend a bit that would be great. All in all if you can get the outer limbs to bend as much more as you did between 19" and 21' by the time you get to 23" you're probably perfect by my eyes. And you'll still have an inch or two to play with.
At this point I would probably be tillering it in my hand with photo support or a mirror more than I would be on the tree. It takes longer to do, but for me it has help.
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Clint,
If that backing works for you, I'd like to know where you got it. It looks like it might be some good camo backing for some of my hickory's that I don't want to stain. 8)
Bill
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No critique needed on that bend Clint... 8)
Don
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I twisted up a string for it out of a mix of FF and D97. After I make a string I put it on my endless loop jig, stretch it super tight over night, and rub the wax in with a piece of leather. When I string the bow for the first time there is absolutely no movement with the string.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16202.jpg)
Here it is at 25". My full draw is shorter than that.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16218.jpg)
I shot a few arrows with it. Its a pretty snappy little bow. I'll need to make a set of arrows with a lower spine to fit it. I haven't decided which limb will be up or down. What full draw do you think looks better? I'll call this one top limb up.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16222.jpg)
Or top limb down?
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16221.jpg)
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Cool looking bow. I vote for the second full draw.
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something's throwing me off, must be the long pants :laugh:, personally I like the first f/d but really either way look's great Clint, just how short is your draw, bub
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Those are my workin' outside pants Bubby. And my draw is 24" on a good day.
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I'd say the first hand drawn pic, top limb up Clint but to be honest it looks pretty much the same to me either way.
Nice bend, what kinda draw weight did you end up with?
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45@24"
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I'm with Bub and Greg, first pic but both work. Too cold for shorts? >:D
Tiller looks great! Looks like a deer killing machine! ;D
Forgot to mention that I like your string jig with shelf brackets! I do the same with my strings as well but using b50, it takes out any slack.
Tracy
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looks very nice1
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Thanks guys.
Even with all that bend it is still holding just a little bit of reflex. Now that the hard part is done, I'm excited about doing the finishing work on it.
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I got to tell you Clint I held up my bottle neck slide and checked out the tiller, so damn close to perfect it was hard to pick top or bottom
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Looks really nice Clint. I'm going with the first pic but it's mighty close. Lot of bend in that bad boy!
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I'm the odd duck out, but I like the second pic. Shoot whatever feels best.
Jon
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Great job man. Both look too close for me to say. Either way bag some game with it :). I really enjoyed this follow along, can't wait to see it dolled up.
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applause! applause! I look forward to seeing that beauty in 43 day :)
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Cool....but good luck hitting the broadside of a barn with that lil thing :laugh: :laugh:
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Nice Clint, nice.
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Cool....but good luck hitting the broadside of a barn with that lil thing :laugh: :laugh:
I could care less about hitting the broad side of a barn. I'm more interested in hitting the broadside of a deer.
Good luck trying to carry your 76" bow through the woods or into a tree stand ;D
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Looks really good to me,been wanting to follow this but couldn't see the pictures,all of the sudden I can :-\ so late to the game but looks like I was just in time for a great finish. ;) :)Very nice ,tiller looks dead on to me. Should spit an arrow. :)
Pappy
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Nice tiller Clintster
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Really nice Clint. You know I like that one!
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Nice job! Either way looks great to me; I would go with whichever one feels better. Maybe try a blindfold test...have someone flip it around a few times and hand it to you. Can't wait to see it finished!
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You did an awesome job with the tiller, looks superb. I don't like anything on the handle with these types of bows. Just plain. One I took fabric and cut it with those jagged shears and did a tennis wracked style wrap just for something to grab. I still like it.
Good one Clint!
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I haven't thought about the handle yet Parnell. I'll probably put some kind of wrap on it.
I got a little bit of time to work on it today. I thinned the last few inches of each limb and finished shaping the tips. Then I sanded the back clean and put a sizing coat of TB3 on it. Tomorrow I'll put the fabric snake skin backing on it.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16227.jpg)
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I bet you could thin those tips a bit more.... :) ;)
Did miss it, what type of wood is your over lays.... walnut?
DBar
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Bill the overlays were old golf clubs. I think they are persimmon.
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That's right....persimmon is a very hard wood, would make good overlays. that's what so cool about this hobby you can recycle things you would never think you could.
DBar
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Lookin really good! Very cool buildalong!
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Well, I couldn't wait until morning to put the backing on. I think it looks pretty good so far. I didn't get the pattern centered to well on the near limb. It was sticking fast in the TB.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16230.jpg)
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That don't look to bad at all Clint
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Looking great. That backing looks awesome.
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Looking good. I saw some stuff similar online at Wally World. I love the fact you tips are old golf clubs.
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Looking great. That backing looks awesome.
+1 i hope we get some closeups when you are done with the finish.
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Fantastic job Clint. I hadn't checked in on this one for awhile. Looks to me like that baby could be shot rightsideup / upsidedown / righty / lefty, wouldn't matter. Excellent tiller!! Makes me want to try my hand with some of the short staves.
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I'll get some close ups of the back once I get it all finished up. I think Jon from Twin Oaks posted a bow with walmart fabric backing a while back. It was more of a Boa pattern.
I' curious as to how well the sides clean up. With a real snake skin I use a fine file or sandpaper on the edge of the limb to make a clean line. I hope this doesn't fray. I glued up a test piece out of scraps to see what works the best before I mess up the bow.
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Good call Clint. The fabric backing I have used I just used a moderately fin file and used down strokes at an angle. Seemed to work fine just don't go up, that's when I had fraying :)
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I removed the excess on the sides and there was just s little bit of fraying. It wasn't bad but I didn't like it. I put some thin superglue on the back and rubbed it into the fabric and on the edges. It darkened the pattern slightly. I think it looks better darker.
The closest limb is soaked in superglue. The color difference didn't show up very well in the picture.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16233.jpg)
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To fix fraying you could just use open flame,like a cigarettelighter or small torch,just have to be careful and find the angle/distance.
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I found the best way to get a nice clean edge on material backings is to apply a coat of finish like true-oil or which ever you will use and let it dry. This sets the material too the wood. Then i use fine sandpaper around a cylinder and sand from back to belly constantly rotating the paper so its always cutting clean. Much better results this way as the material cannot fray due to the finish sealing the backing.
Nice bow too :)
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I found the best way to get a nice clean edge on material backings is to apply a coat of finish like true-oil or which ever you will use and let it dry. This sets the material too the wood. Then i use fine sandpaper around a cylinder and sand from back to belly constantly rotating the paper so its always cutting clean. Much better results this way as the material cannot fray due to the finish sealing the backing.
Nice bow too :)
Now you tell me ::) Thanks for the tips guys. This was my first attempt at fabric backing. I'm learning as I go.
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I found the best way to get a nice clean edge on material backings is to apply a coat of finish like true-oil or which ever you will use and let it dry. This sets the material too the wood. Then i use fine sandpaper around a cylinder and sand from back to belly constantly rotating the paper so its always cutting clean. Much better results this way as the material cannot fray due to the finish sealing the backing.
Nice bow too :)
That's what I have done as well. If you seal the backing it will clean up good with fine sandpaper.
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I sanded it all down, burnished it with an antler, and put the first coat of tung oil on it. This is the first time using tung oil. I like it so far.