Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Don Case on December 09, 2013, 03:12:18 pm
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When you're gluing on tips how do you keep them from sliding off the end of the bow? Everything fits up fine but when I add the glue it's like greasing the joint and the pressure of the clamp slides it off.
Don
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I use finger power. I also use professional grade loctite brand super glue. Dries in a matter of seconds. Just be careful or you will have thumb skin tip overlays! Another thing I started doing was scoring the mating surfaces with the tip of a sharp knife balde. I keep the lines parallel to the length of the bow and dont be shy about scoring. This increases the gluing surfaces considerably and has been a big improvement over simply roughing it up with some 80 grit sandpaper for me. The scoring also limits the tendency for the tip to glide around on a film of glue when clamping.
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A attach mine much like Carson. I use a ca glue called super jet, medium viscosity. There is a product that I couple with it called jet set. It cures the glue hard in about two seconds. But don't get the two on you skin. A chemical reaction of extreme heat occurs, not enough to discolor the wood.
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tape, glue it on then wrap painters tape around it to keep it in place.
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Carson, what viscosity is the Locktite? I have two or three different thicknesses of CA from model boat building. Do you use an accelerator? I think a CSI team would have a heyday in my shop. My permanent fingertips are CA'd everywhere. Always keep a bottle of acetone within reach ;D
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5 minute loctite the part epoxy. I also score the mating surfaces.
Once glued I leave them for atleast 24 hours to cure properly. No-idea where they get the 5 minutes from but with enough time they dont budge. Never had one move after appropriate drying time.
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I use a rubber band to hold the tip overlay while the glue cures. I can get good, even pressure all along the tip overlay to insure a good glue joint by wrapping the rubber band from one end or the overlay to the other. .
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I use a rubber band to hold the tip overlay while the glue cures. I can get good, even pressure all along the tip overlay to insure a good glue joint by wrapping the rubber band from one end or the overlay to the other. .
I do the same as Pat
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I'll try the rubber band next time. I prefer epoxy over CA. I have a mistrust of CA that is taking time to go away.
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2" Spring clamps n super glue(the good kind) for me....never had any bonding issues..ever
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2" Spring clamps n super glue(the good kind) for me....never had any bonding issues..ever
The Good Kind??? Have you got a little more info?? ;D ;D
Thanks
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2" Spring clamps n super glue(the good kind) for me....never had any bonding issues..ever
Same deal for me. Never had an issue. Hold with fingers for about 20 seconds, and then apply the clamps.
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I'll try the rubber band next time. I prefer epoxy over CA. I have a mistrust of CA that is taking time to go away.
im not a fan of epoxy anymore, it leaves a gap and you dont get good glue lines.
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I use finger power. I also use professional grade loctite brand super glue. Dries in a matter of seconds. Just be careful or you will have thumb skin tip overlays! Another thing I started doing was scoring the mating surfaces with the tip of a sharp knife balde. I keep the lines parallel to the length of the bow and dont be shy about scoring. This increases the gluing surfaces considerably and has been a big improvement over simply roughing it up with some 80 grit sandpaper for me. The scoring also limits the tendency for the tip to glide around on a film of glue when clamping.
I use locite gel super glue, and also use my fingers, ;D. I hate gettin it all over my fingers though, always gotta sand it off later.
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Locktight pro, get it at Wally world, finger pressure, I let it sit an hour or two and start shaping it
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I'll try the rubber band next time. I prefer epoxy over CA. I have a mistrust of CA that is taking time to go away.
im not a fan of epoxy anymore, it leaves a gap and you dont get good glue lines.
YOU leave a gap and don't get good glue lines.... Epoxy works as well as the person using it.
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Good one Pat, it's a poor craftsman that blames his tools, jordo lol >:D
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Spring clamps and whatever glue I have handy in the shop, usually tb2 or 3.
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I make the tip material at least a 1/4" proud from the sides and do an initial clamp using the vice, when the glue becomes somewhat tacky after the initial squeeze out then I use the small c-clamps and bobs your uncle.
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I just glue it and clamp it with a cheesy plastic spring clamp. never a problem.
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It's this tip that was giving me grief. When I clamped the two together the tip wanted to squeeze off the end of the bow. I managed but it was a PITA. I had to pick the clamp and the tip off the floor twice.
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I sometimes hot glue on the edge of the epoxy and then clamp
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My tips start out as blocks of wood, the top of which I make parallel to the belly of the bow so the clamp pinches it together firmly.
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I have gotten to where I much prefer pin nocks on most of my bows, but when I do glue on an overlay i prefer tightbond and rubber bands. Liquid loctite superglue works great too, and has the advantage of allowing you to go back to work on the tips in an hour or so. If I had to go with just one type of glue for all my bow building it would be Tite bond 3 - I haven't had it fail me yet.
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Spring clamp and super glue, Like Blackhawk, hadn't had any problems doing it that way. :)
Pappy
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I make the tip material larger than needed and score the area lightly. I use TB3 and wrap the tip with hemp twine. if the tip material is larger than the tip its self the hemp twine wont get glued on too... most of the time.
I have glued finger prints all over my work shop too!
John
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I have used TB glues, thin and gel super glue or 2ton epoxy, all with good results.
I also pre-shape the overlays, at least the rear taper so I don't mar the back of the limb tip trying to get a good transition between the overlay and the limb tip.
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This just amazes me! Sounds like I'm the only person in the western hemisphere that has this problem ;D This kind of joint has always been a problem for me. Trying to glue one tapered piece to another the parts always slide. The pieces will clamp together dry but as soon as the glue goes on it slides. I can see thin CA working but you need an almost perfect joint for that stuff. In the past I have sometimes resorted to gluing a wedge to both sides so that I have parallel clamping surfaces. I have also drilled a hole through the joint to pin it. Maybe I'm using too much glue but I don't think that's the case. Oh well, if that's the biggest problem in my life, I'm alright!
Thanks for the input, I will try rubber bands and CA ;D ;D
Don
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Don, I use loctite pro. It is thin. I have used other gel and medium Ca glues, but I like the thin best. I have used other brand CA glues because the price of loctite is outrageous, but soon I went back to the Loctite brand. I dont use an accelerator. The type I use certainly doesn't need it. It is set in ~5 seconds, and I have started shaping the tips less than 20 minutes later. It is incredible stuff.
Keep in mind CA glue does have a shelf life. I store mine in the fridge when not in use and don't use any bottles over a year old for crucial things like tips.
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Don, that is the beauty of just using yer digits and a fast setting super glue. All that hastle goes away, and your only problem is glue on your fingers...but sounds like you already have that problem anyway ;D ;D
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So do you clamp/hold it and then drizzle the CA on the joint or apply the CA to the surfaces and then put the parts together?
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I add glue to both surfaces before I put them together. If I'm using antler I size the pithy part of the antler first with thin super glue, re-sand it smooth then add the glue to both surfaces, put them together and wrap with rubber a band.
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Done the most important things with glue ups is perfectly mated surfaces and even pressure, get the areas prepped right and the CA glue won't be a problem
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Don, I use loctite pro. It is thin. I have used other gel and medium Ca glues, but I like the thin best. I have used other brand CA glues because the price of loctite is outrageous, but soon I went back to the Loctite brand. I dont use an accelerator. The type I use certainly doesn't need it. It is set in ~5 seconds, and I have started shaping the tips less than 20 minutes later. It is incredible stuff.
Bingo!