Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Danzn Bar on November 24, 2013, 10:54:30 am
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Well Guys,
I have somewhere around 400 arras through this bow, It is a nice and sunny morning but very cold here in KY, about 25 deg. But I wanted to shoot Cyclops Molly a few times, I braced her in the house, went outside, it was fifteen minutes or so before I started shooting...............well I warm her up some so with a few half draw pulls. knocked an arrow and pulled her back to snap, crackle & pop, sounded like Rice Crispy's.!! :o :( :(
The Flex Coat finished cracked across the bow in about six places. I had been shooting this bow a lot earlier in the fall and even hunted with it after adding some camo tape on her to keep the shine down. Never shot her in weather colder than 40 deg. until today.
I think what contributed to the cracks is the finish is not flexable enough :laugh: :laugh: Seriously, thick epoxy finish well cured, the feathers made the finished even thicker. I'm going to remove the finish as best as I can and get her down to wood. Next time with feathers I'm going to do the finish in true oil or something like that, it won't create the under glass look, but it might be better for a hunting bow.
It's hard to see with the shiny finish, but here is a pic or two. Any suggestions as to how to remove the epoxy and feathers is welcome.
I know that some of you were thinking of using the Flex Coat finish, just had to let you guys know................
Live and learn, it will be better next time, :) ;)
DBar
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Man thats a bummer Bill, all that work on that beautiful feather backing and it does that to ya. I've had a couple of my early bows , 15 yrs. old with spar varnish finish crack like that. Brittle with age, which is not the case with your finish
though. Not sure how you'd get that hard epoxy off the back so have no advice there. Chemical stripper, maybe an epoxy reducer solvent, scraper? Good luck with it, gonna be a learning experience for sure.
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Thanks Greg,
I think I'm going to start trying more natural materials....and less of the man made stuff.
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Probably have to go with the next step up in flexibility. Likely the mirror coat bar top finish.
Not sure you can reasonably attain the desired finish with a natural product.
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That stinks Bill. That was a beautiful bow. I hope you can repair it. I wouldn't give up on the flex coat. Maybe you could make a couple warm weather bows and use it as a finish.
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Maybe a light heating will refuse the cracks?I'm not sure how much heat the back will take before suffering damages?maybe try it on a mock up situation,just throwing it out there.good luck!
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Maybe a light heating will refuse the cracks?I'm not sure how much heat the back will take before suffering damages?maybe try it on a mock up situation,just throwing it out there.good luck!
Actually that is a good idea. Maybe you could soften the finish and it would seal it up or heat it and put some more and see if that fixes it? If it doesn't, at least you tried and you can just rip it off.
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Dang it man I hate see that...
I had the same thing happen to me with a thick super glue finish over snake skins...
Had to peel it off including the skins and start over...
Went with many coats of Tru-Oil over new skins with light sanding between every third coat then polished out with Rottenstone and linseed oil.
Worked like a charm and got the glossy glass appearance I wanted.
and no cracking of the finish when I shoot it...
Regards,
-gus
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First of all heating Epoxy doesn't reactivate it and second of all why would it magically becoming "fixed" mean that it wouldn't just crack again?
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just thought id throw it out there ,do it all the time with poly propelyne pipe then use in warmer weather,maybe i should try it first :-X
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Sorta like an antique, dont change anything. Build anither bow And keep that around as is..very cool with those feathers
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Methylene chloride will work but you may want to try regular lacquer thinner first.
Some brands come off with gasoline or acetone.
heating them will soften it a lot. And then burn it.
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Just scrape it off. I routinely re-do epoxy surfaces and scraping is the way to go.
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Sorry to hear that Bill I would just call it character ;)
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Man that sucks. Do what you real the bow needs.
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Yep,thats why I like tru oil ,if it is just the finish you should be fine if you can get that stuff off. :) Beautiful work tho. :)
Pappy
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Thanks guys for all the ideas.............
In mind, I've got a couple of options.
1. It shoots fine, just shoot it more and see if it worsens, a little " character" and start another bow :-\
2. I think the best way to remove it is to use a sharp scraper, and see if I can scrape it off to the feathers, if not take it to the wood, and add another finish " true oil" :-\
This bow makes it tough to decide for me....I've got plenty of time, it ain't going anywhere, I'll shoot it somemore and when it's time to rework it, I'm sure I'll know.
Thanks again for all your encouragement and ideas
DBar
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I loved that bow, man.
I will save the idea for making a presentation box or a cigar humidor some time...something that doesn't have to be tillered or strung.
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Look into bar top, dance floor sort of finishes. 2 part, water based.
These should work. I'd hook you up with my new finish supplier but they don't ship overseas....
For this sort of a finish I would use a product called induro oil....unbelieveable stuff....
This stuff dries so hard yet flexible it has to be seen to be believed! I literally can't scratch it without using something metal....try saying that about tru oil!! ;) ;) ;)
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Right Mike,tru oil will scratch,but wont crack and is very easy to fix if it does get scratched. ;) :)
Pappy
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El stinko bill....not sure what to tell ya :-\ seems like if ya do remove it to the featherd it would be hard not to knick the feathers up ??? :-\ my buddy Jon(straightarrow) did a feather backed bow I saw in person and he just used tru oil and it turned out good...
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Ouch! That's a bummer Bill. That wouldn't have happened to duct tape. :o ;D ;D ;D ;) It's an inside joke..... ;D dp
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I don't know but I would avoid thicker finishes myself. Thinner is always more flexible.
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Well I'm not giving up on the feather or I should say "duct tape" backing just yet, You cracked me up Derick. :laugh: :laugh: I almost forgot about that :laugh:
Good idea JW I've put smaller ones on wing bone turkey calls also.
Mike maybe you could just finish a bow with some of that stuff and shoot the snot out of it and post the results. I'd be a lot more interested in it then. but next time I'm using the tried and tested true oil.
Thanks guys
DBar
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If it was me and my bow, I wouldn't try to redo it. I'd maybe try to seal the cracks with thin superglue but that would be about it.
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Nothing actually happened to the working limb so why not re-do it? There are definitely products or products that can be modified that will hold up in this application.
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Like PatM said there is nothing wrong with the bow,and it is so beautiful I would diffidently try a redo on the feathers. I am sure there are other sealers that I THINK will work, :-\ but I know tru oil will. Seen it. ;) :) Good luck and keep us posted. :)
Pappy