Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: kid bow on November 07, 2013, 07:39:42 pm
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so I have a question. I have a friend who hunts a good amount and hes giving me the sinew. my main question is that if im building a board bow and I back It with sinew do I still have to bring the back down to one growth ring or can I leave it as is with the growth rings all violated? I wanna know this because if it gives me a bit leniency with that aspect then I can start putting out some bows for my teacher and his sons.
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Sinew does give you a bit of leeway with violated growth rings, but not much. The more sinew, the more leeway.
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thanks jack nice to know. my friend is giving me all the sinew doesn't know what hes missing with the stuff. so would maybe 2 layers be enough for a good amount of leeway
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Do you not have access to staves?
Even though sinew gives protection I still want to use the best piece of wood I can get for the project.
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No. Everything is to big to cut and I don't want the HOA for our housing Area to come knocking on my door. I was gunna use the sinew to trade for a stave
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Safest is to take it to one growth ring.Then sinew.Badly violated backs can still crack and crinkle a bit under the sinew especially if it's only two layers and that depends on how thick each of your layers is.
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By that I mean it all depends on the grain run out of your board bow.Will it have knots?An straight edge grain board can make a fine bow without sinew too.
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I was gunna pick up a quater sawn board where the grain runs lengthwise or up and down on the back I was gunna back it to make it safe for a friend to use to hunt big game
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Don't see why it would'nt work then.
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To be safe, I would use Maple if you're going to go that route. Ring porous woods seem like a candidate to be pulled apart along the growth lines in that configuration.
I would do some testing and practicing the application before "making something a friend can hunt big game with".
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They don't have maple in boards. I know a guy who runs a tree removal service in okalona and he might have some hickory or Osage or ash or something
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Don't see why it would'nt work then.
Would I need to back it if I used quarter sawn boards
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No....... but the fact that you don't know makes me say yes.....
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The early wood on ring pourous woods does make people question the bond that hide glue has with it.Since it will occupy a certain percentage of space on edge ringed bows.Personally I've sinewed ring pourous wood with good success like hickory but it was from a stave and the early wood was like dots intead of a ring.I'm assuming you do know the difference between ring pourous and diffuse pourous wood.
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To a point. I know ring porous woods love moisture and they are harder to glue up than diffuse porous woods. But hey I'm always willing to learn If you wanna teach lol
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Gotta remember I've been outta the game since school started for me
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You're looking at ring porous and diffuse porous too simply. The lines are much more blurry between them. Elm and Hickory are ring porous but nothing like Ash or Osage.
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Like I said I'm willing to learn if you can teach
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Your on the right track kidbow.To sinew an edge grain ring pourous wood bows' back the sizing before you put the sinew on must be thorough.Multiple sizings.It should look like glass when dried.The early wood wants to soak up too much of the glue and create a dry joint.
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so im gunna try and get 2 quarter sawn boards anything I should be on the look out for
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Nothing that has'nt been said before on this thread.Get good straight grain boards. Maybe too that the hide glue sizings you put on should be left to dry at least a few hours in between each one.Then lightly sanded in between.Hold the back of your bow at a low angle to the light to see if it is shiny.You want all of the pores filled.Is this your first sinew job too?
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yep I was gunna get the boards and rough them out to the shape I want on the back and then I was gunna sinew them up.
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It's good you got two bows in progress.There are sinewing videos out there.In fact PatM showed a fantastic one just recently.There will be a learning curve trying this out for the first time but you'll get it done.Have you got a good idea what and how your going to prepare your hide glue and sinew before applying it to your bow?
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now that I don't have
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Have you got the TBB 1 book where Jim Hamm has a chapter on sinewing.If not search on here for info.I can't from here tell you every detail as your doing the process.Look into this a bit on your own before doing this.Basically don't overheat your glue or sinew.I presoak my sinew in water till very pliable before dipping it into the hide glue.
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I have that book so ill look it up