Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Xamllew on October 11, 2013, 12:03:45 am
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Hello everyone, I just joined because I wanted to ask about a hickory backed longbow I've been slaving over. I backed the bow with two 35" hickory slats joined at the handle, however I did a pretty sloppy job with the splice between the slats (simple scarf joint with poor gluing surface). Because the bow is a bend-in-handle type, I'm worried the joint may pop apart the instant it begins to bend. Is there any way I can reinforce this joint? I planned to wrap it tightly in fishing line and epoxy over that.
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The fishing line (i recomend thick braided for durability and astetics) should be plenty if wrapped tight and glue coated. what wood is the hickory backing on?
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You might try a hemp string wrap set in glue. I use it on most bows but started on a bow with a spliced backing. It is very strong and gives a good all weather handle wrap. I use Massey finish(2ton epoxy thinned with acetone) to seal and set the handle wrap. I get the hemp string from WalMart.
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Better to span the splice with a thin overlay and then wrap on top of that.
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
@NeolithicMan, the belly wood is red oak, so I'm keeping the backing fairly thin and trapped.
@Pat B, Thanks for the advice, though I plan on having a leather wrap over the splice so the hemp wont be seen. Don't want that epoxy mess to be seen or felt.
@PatM, ah, great idea, what material would be appropriate though? Just another piece of hickory?
I wonder if Dacron b-50 would be a better choice than the fishing line for wrapping.
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Yes a thin piece with the ends tapered to a feathered edge. Bowstring will be waxed and not glue well. so you'd be better off with braided fishing line of a non stretch material.
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I just finished a red oak selfbow from a tree I cut last winter. its unbacked but the grain on the belly looks awesome when finished up with a burnish and tru-oil.
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+1 On what Pat says. Over lay a thin slat, that will give a huge glue area. A splice has only a tiny area of gue where the backings meet.
You can even sand down the join to give a dead flat slightly concave surface first so that when the job is finished it doesn't show as a bulge.
I think any wrapping is almost irrelevant, but a 5-6" long thin overlay will do the job.
Del