Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Luker on September 02, 2013, 02:05:59 am
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I recently completed my second bow. The only thing I have left to do is finish and seal the bow. I sealed my first bow with a polyurethane spray. The bow isn't taking in moisture which is good but it just doesn't look the way I want it to. Most of the bows on this website appear to be shiny and they look really good. How can I get a similar effect? Is there a certain brand or kind of sealer that I should use to seal my bow and make it shine? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you
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6-9 coats of Tru-Oil
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6-9 coats of Tru-Oil
This.
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Wax and buff with a cotten rag.
But this only give it a slight luster and it go's away qiuckly.
But you can rewax and buff any time used like. ( YOU HAVE A BRAND NEW BOW) Only takes a few mintes. With other sealers when it's done it's done. It will lose it's shine with age if it's used and it's took out in the weather.
You don't what a shine for a hunting bow anyway.
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Tried a few finishes, polly brush on varnish, spray, linseed etc.
Not tried any of these since discovering Tru-oil. If you are struggling to get hold of it try your local gunsmith.
Its easy to apply, dries fast, no cleaning brushes just apply with a finger tip.
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There are different types of poly sheen-high gloss, semi gloss and satin. The high gloss would have the most sheen and the satin the less.
I was once told I was better off using satin. Then I killed a deer with a bow finished with semi gloss. :)
My osage bows get 3 coats of Tru Oil and 3 coats of spar urethane. I like the way Tru Oil seals the pores but favor spar urethane for water proofing.
Jawge
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I use tung oil to get that shine, usually around 6 coats is enough to get a nice gloss.
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I like using the Helmsman Spar Urethane in satin, (spray can).....works well for me.....have not used true oil. But I will shortly.
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Tru-oil works great if you want a bow to shine and have a high gloss, smooth finish. Spray poly will work but I have found that any spray finish isn't as smooth as a hand rubbed tru-oil finish.
I just tried something new for a quick and easy hunting finish. I put 5 coats of spray shellac on the bow, buffed it with 0000 steel wool and then rubbed on a thin coat of TB3. It has no shine at all and should keep the moisture out.
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I use linseed and when it's dry I buff it with a really fine rag for cleaning binos. It is dull but looks good. I also rub a beeswax on it and do the same with the rag. It is clean but low luster
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I just tried something new for a quick and easy hunting finish. I put 5 coats of spray shellac on the bow, buffed it with 0000 steel wool and then rubbed on a thin coat of TB3. It has no shine at all and should keep the moisture out.
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Never thought about TB3 for a water repellent finished :o I bet it's a hard finished tooo. is it ?? Clint
DBar
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As far as the spar urethane I also use fine steel wool on it to smooth it up when it is dry.
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I just tried something new for a quick and easy hunting finish. I put 5 coats of spray shellac on the bow, buffed it with 0000 steel wool and then rubbed on a thin coat of TB3. It has no shine at all and should keep the moisture out.
Never thought about TB3 for a water repellent finished :o I bet it's a hard finished tooo. is it ?? Clint
DBar
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I'll let you look at it in about 3 weeks. Its the same bow that I brought to the last shoot. It was only sealed with shellac then.
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I've been using 5-6 coats of tung oil and then 5 coats of paste wax, gives it a nice finish that is semi shiny
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Steve b. uses tb3 as a finish for his arrows
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Cabot products have me sold with a sanding sealer[although shellac might work here too] compatible with spar urethane[glossy,semi gloss,or satin] burnished with 0000 steel wool.Sand between your thin coats and you can get it looking like glass if you want to but beware of putting it on too thick.Use it on my sinewed bows too & even in a light rain or heavy fog it has stayed sealed for me.No way of stopping moisture over the long run though so I don't push it over a full day.
I use watered down TT3 2 times then straight on my silk wraps instead of super glue.Use that on jute or hemp handle wraps too.Takes a finish good afterwards.
Also snake skins get an 1/8" wide thin bead of thin superglue on the edges then sanded before finish.
All of these have proven to me to be very durable over years of use.