Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jpschersch on August 16, 2013, 02:29:31 pm
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Good afternoon all! This is my first post on here and I'm really new to all this, so bear with me.
I've been looking at A LOT of videos and walkthroughs/guides related to building a self bow. I've decided to start this experience using a Red Oak board from Lowe's and probably a Black Walnut grip extention....but not sure on that wood, we'll see. I purchased a few tools (Rasp, C-Clamps, Vise Grip, File) and 2 Red Oak boards that have what I think are decent grain to start with. I looked at Poor Folk Bows site and he backed with Drywall tape (which I saw BoarriorBows do as well) but I'm not sure I like the look/feel of what it would be (maybe someone can talk me into/out of it?). I also saw a lot of threads regarding using another wood backing (like hickory or bamboo...) but my main question on that is how/when do you put it on the bow....before you cut? after you cut? after you tiller? before? Just not sure on that process...With Silk or Linen cloth as backing, you do that after tillering, right? Anyway, I know these are probably easy questions, but as a complete newbie (remember how I JUST bought my first rasp? lol..) any info is appreciated!
Thanks!
Joe
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Don't use drywall tape, use silk or linen instead. You apply the cloth backings after tillering, these type backing are for safety purposes and do not affect the tiller to any appreciable degree and they will not add any poundage to the draw weight. Bubby has a great build-a-long for making a board bow in the link below. You can follow it using just hand tools just fine, the dimensions will work well with red oak.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html)
Grady
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Thanks for the link, I'll have to take a look.
Can you stain the bow after backing with linen or silk?
Thanks,
Joe
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Not to disagree with grady ,I put the backing before.in my mind it may prevent a failure juring the tillering process as I have broken many bows at that stage.not sure about the stain ,but you could prob dye it or paint.
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Putting the backing on after floor tiller and before final tiller like Bushboy said is probably the safest way to do it. He definitely has more experience that me so I will defer to him on that.
Grady
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Grady I defintely have more experience "BREAKING" bows!lol!
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JP,
Welcome to PA. you have found the greatest well of knowledge. There are many here who love to share and help! Love to see the bow when your done :)
Knapper
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So, floor tiller, back with linen or silk, then finish tillering? Then if I want to stain it, do I just stain over the linen or cloth? Or how do I do that? Sorry for repeat question, just wondering.
Thanks!
Joe
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Oh, one other question. When I glue on a riser (that's what it's called right? The piece that makes it thicker and more solid in the handle), what kinds of woods are recommended? I was thinking black walnut but not able to find it currently. Basically looking for wood I can find at Home Depot, lowes, or wherever is easy to find ;)
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The riser can be pretty much anything. Pick a wood that you like the look of and that contrasts or compliments the red oak.
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Alright cool! Anybody who's done a red oak board bow have any recommendations on what looks good?
Thank
Joe
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Walnut would be cool
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I have made the risers out of more red oak. First couple of bows are a learning process.
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Very true statement. So what you guys are saying is it doesn't really matter what my riser wood is. Right?
Thanks.
Joe
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The riser doesn't bend so the choice is yours anything will do.eastern red cedar would look good!
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Thanks all! Hopefully I can get something started so I can show pics! :)
Thanks
Joe
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Alright cool! Anybody who's done a red oak board bow have any recommendations on what looks good?
Thank
Joe
Duct tape makes a nice grip. I like bend in the handle bows.. so I don't make risers.
Duct tape doesn't look nice however... so electrical tape or jute cord works great too.
ERc is some pretty stuff.
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Really? duct tape? out of all the things you can make a grip with... :-\
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Really? duct tape? out of all the things you can make a grip with... :-\
that is exactly what I thought, look in the yellow pages for cabinet shops in your area, they have lot's of end pcs and scraps that they have to haul off or burn, they will prolly give it to you
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Bubby, you talking about the black walnut when you say that?
Thanks
Joe
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There's info on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
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JP,
Welcome to PA. you have found the greatest well of knowledge. There are many here who love to share and help! Love to see the bow when your done :)
Knapper
Amen on that ;)
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Bubby, you talking about the black walnut when you say that?
Thanks
Joe
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you should get black walnut, cherry, maple and more
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I used red oak for my riser at first since I didn't expect it to work out. I started playing/paying with the exotic woods after I got the hang of tillering. Doesn't hurt your feelings as bad if it breaks when you only have $10 in it. You can get silk at fabric stores at a decent price and back a lot of bows with it.
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Awesome! Thanks everyone! I'll post progress pics once I make some progress ;)
Thanks
Joe
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If you want to dress up your handle a bit get a piece of thin cedar at Lowes then cut your red oak left over piece in half, sandwich the cedar in between the oak pieces and you'll get a cool stripe in your handle. The thin slats of cedar for closet linings work great and they are cheap.
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So put the thin Cedar plank (what, 10 inches?) where the handle will go, and then put on top of that another piece of Red Oak board (same size...10 inches? or other), then fade it? Will the Cedar really show through?
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I like to put a thin piece of oak onto the belly then a thin piece of cedar on top of that and then top it off with another piece of oak. Depending on your finish it will show through quite nicely. I don't have any pictures and I can't figure out how to post my sketch I just made :o
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Another way to gussy up bows when you are gluing wood together is to get a veneering kit at a hobby store. Or just find wood for veneering. You can sandwich thin strips to get a custom look for not too much $ ;D. I learned that building guitars. It really looks clean when you use light and dark wood together. Especially on tip overlays. Have fun with you fist build. Get ready to be infected with something that only has one cure. >:D
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Paoliguy, if you get a chance to put up a pic of what you're talking about (or anyone for that matter), I'd truly appreciate it. I'm still slightly confused about what you mean. Also, for Tip overlays, all I do for that is put a pice of bone or other color wood on the tip and file/sand it down to match?
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here's an attached sketch, for some reason this whole picture thing is eluding me
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I like that idea but went to lowes and they didn't have cedar planks like that. I did however find a cool darker red oak plank and another cool ring patterned red oak board that I'm gonna try. Might look cool. Might look dumb. Who knows till I get it on there, lol. Recommend glueing them separately or at same time?
Thanks
Joe
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There's only one way to find out huh? Good luck, I bet it'll come out looking good - plus inspiration to start the second one!
Mark
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I don't think there is such a thing as an ugly wood combination. It is all beautiful, and contrasting it just makes it even better.
Just don't mix plaid and striped wood. :)
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Ha, thanks for the advice :)
Now when glueing it, do I glue the thin piece to the board...let it dry then glue the thicker piece over it? Or do I just put glue on all surfaces and glue all 3 together? Thanks.
Joe
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just glue it all together at the same time
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And NEVER use white wood after labor day! .... or something like that..
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And NEVER use white wood after labor day! .... or something like that..
Now that's funny!
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Haha. Well crap, I better start before the 2nd! ;D
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Anyone mind telling me if the measurements I'm gonna use are good or do you all (with lots more experience) have any recommendations? My plan is to use my bow for hunting. I'm thinking roughly 50#, 28".
I bought a 1x3 and will rip it down to 2" (the 1x2 i bought isn't actually 2 inches...) and it will be 68" long. Going to put a 9-10 inch riser on in the center. 2 inch fade off the riser blocks...I will start the taper on the bow 2.5" from the end of the riser block on each side..drawing a straight line to the half inch tips. (its all confusing being typed out, but I think maybe I'm making some sense? lol...).
For those of you with the experience....do my measurements make sense? And if so, are they measurements you'd recommend? If not, PLEASE give some advise to a newbie :P I wanna get started soon!
Thanks
Joe
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your over thinking this in my opinion. Follow bubby's build along for a simple pyramid bow and you will be in good shape.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
Jon
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Thanks for the link Ifrit. I took a look at it and will go more in depth when I have some more time. I did notice that a few of his measurements were similar to mine...so maybe I'm on the right track. Any other thoughts from anyone else are always appreciated!
I guess my main concern currently is the length of the bow...what kind of difference will it make hunting if I have it 68", 70", or as Bubby has it, 66"?
Thanks,
Joe
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whats your draw length? If its 28" or under 66" is plenty. Bub has a 29" draw, so those dimensions must work for that as well. 68" will be slightly smoother, but other than that you don't gain anything over the shorter bow.
Jon
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What do you mean by smoother?
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if you have good grain the difference will be size, the longer you go the more wood, longer a little thicker maybe a hair wider at 70", I think they are all fine, but I wouldn't go over 68" ttt
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whats your draw length? If its 28" or under 66" is plenty. Bub has a 29" draw, so those dimensions must work for that as well. 68" will be slightly smoother, but other than that you don't gain anything over the shorter bow.
Jon
x2 i'm building a bow for my nieces boyfriend he's 6'6" and i'll probably tiller it to 31" and I was gonna go 70" with that one
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the string angle between the tips and the string will be less. This will prevent the bow from pulling into stack as your draw increases, causing the bow to feel like it is heavier than it actually is. But you still haven't answered my question, what is your draw length?
Jon
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I think its 28....but I guess I'm not sure....as I said before I'm a complete newbie with any of this...sorry for the dumb questions :-\
Joe
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okay. Then 66" should be plenty.
Jon
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whats your draw length? If its 28" or under 66" is plenty. Bub has a 29" draw, so those dimensions must work for that as well. 68" will be slightly smoother, but other than that you don't gain anything over the shorter bow.
Jon
What did you mean by smoother though? I'm thinking 66 or 68 but I guess I need to figure out my actual draw length huh.
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I'd say 27-28 is what I am. I took my wingspan, minus 15, divided by 2. That about right?
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I find it more accurate (if you dont have the possibility to measure on an actual bow) to hold your arms straight forward with palms together and measure from just under the hollow at the throat to tips of the longfingers.
That way type of body matters less. I myself probably have organgutan somewhere in the genes :o
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Ok, I'm now ripped the board to exactly 2" thick. Only question before I glue riser on and start shaving...66" or 68"...which will be more powerful/better/smoother shot/ etc....remember I'm very new so maybe my thoughts on length is wrong...any advise before I decide is much appreciated.
Joe
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go 68" tip to tip, that will give you 66" bow ntn, that will give you a safety newbie clause, still be able to hit 50#
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Safety newbie clause? Huh? Lol
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Well, I started tonight. With my schedule, it's gonna be slow going. I guess that's ok with this kind of project since wood won't go anywhere ;). So far I've cut to 68" and glued on the 9" riser at center. That'll sit till it dries. Once I get further I'll post some pics.
Joe
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I have my riser glued on and I like the colors on it. I have drawn out my design and I was just trying to confirm my thoughts that when I draw the fade line in the riser...I should leave myself roughly 5" for my hand? or is there a different length that would work better? Just wondering.
As always, thanks.
Joe
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all the layout is in herehttp://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html