Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ed Brooks on August 13, 2013, 03:47:01 pm
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This is my 2nd board bow, it's oak with teak tips and handle, 60" t2t, 1/2" wide tips, 5/8" wide handle, handle 4" into fades of about 1.5", widest part is 1 1/2". Brace was 3 3/4" in the pic. Thanks for looking and the feed back. Ed
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Good job with it being even, it is stiff out of the fades.
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the top fade just above the handle looks like it could stand to have just a little taken off.
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Yup top limb from fade out to about 10 - 11 inches is a tad flat.
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Thank you for the feed back. I'll be scrapping it tonight. Ed
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Do you have a cheater tool? I couldn't tiller without one...
Just take a piece of hardwood about 4 1/2 to 6 inches long, 3/4" wide, and maybe about an inch tall. Drill a hole through the center just big enough for a pencil to slip through. Make the pencil lead just barely stick through, then slide the tool along the back of your bow - any flat spots will be marked. Then just shave off the pencil mark, and go back to your tillering stick. Easy as that.
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Both your tips are very close to a hinge. Don't touch them.
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hlstanley: Thank you for the feed back.
I have been dragging my feet about making one of those..I think it's time.
pearl drums; I will leave them alone thank you. Ed
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It's pretty good, just a tad stiff on the upper limb inner 1/3 and a little less so on the lower.
Tillered as it is I'd guess it's pretty quick, but still a good idea to let the inner limbs share some of the load.
Quick isn't necessarilly long lasting!
Del
(IMO it's better to educate your eye and your feel than to use a gizmo, but that doesn't mean they are a bad thing or even 'cheating' )
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The bottom looks better to me but both are way stiff near the fades/dips.
The tillering gizmo is a fantastic tool. Even if you always use it, you'll find that you get faster with time because you learn to see the way the limb bends and, as time goes by, you start getting closer before you even pick up the tool. You just need to make sure you don't solely rely on the pencil mark. Look at the limb from all angles each time you stop working on it and exercising it.
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The bottom looks better to me but both are way stiff near the fades/dips.
The tillering gizmo is a fantastic tool. Even if you always use it, you'll find that you get faster with time because you learn to see the way the limb bends and, as time goes by, you start getting closer before you even pick up the tool. You just need to make sure you don't solely rely on the pencil mark. Look at the limb from all angles each time you stop working on it and exercising it.
True, but for a noob like me, the cheater tool helps me go from "snap, crackle, and pop + many swear words + call to the pastor to appologize" to "Oooooo, did you see that bullseye shot!?" And hey, everyone starts out on a bicycle with training wheels, so why not start with the cheater tool! ;D
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Note how the top limb needs to bend a little more to match the bottom limb.
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Thank you all for the advice. you folks are awesome. Ed
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Another good way to help judge tiller is to look at the set in the unstrung stave. It will show you if one part of the limb is doing more than its fair share of work.
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Here she is again after some more wood removed and an new string from Pear Drums, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thank you again. Ed
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Lookin' good, maybe a few licks with a rough cat tongue on the upper still ;)
Del
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That looks much better. The top fade is doing some work, and your tiller is much more even.
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lookin really good, i can see a few scrapes on both fade to midlimb areas, moreso on the top limb, but it's definitely good enough to shoot. Nice job!
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Look pretty even,good job!still a little whip tillered for my taste,is it was mine I'd flip the tips.just my personal opinion,and you know what opinions are like!lol!
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Thank you all, I'll go do some more sanding tonight.
Bushboy, not to sound too stupid, but what is whip tillered? and what do mean by flip the tips. Ed
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Whip tillered is when your tips are bending to much and inducing stace(when the power stroke suddenly become very hard to pull when reaching full draw because o a high string getting close to 90 degree).flipping the tip counter balances tihis by keeping the string angle down and giving a smoother draw.clamp the bow down back first on a caul and heat it with a heat gun or torch till the the last 8" become brown.I keep my heat source constantly moving as to no burn one area to much.let the wood cool completely and unclamp and it should hold the form.see how the entire limb is doing it's fair share of work and it adds to it's longjevity.
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Just to clarify, the bow pictured didn't have flipped tips ,I'll put one up later with very mildly flipped tips
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Bushboy, thank you for that.
Can I also or do I want to heat the rest of the under side also. I see people talking about scorching / browning the belly for strength? Ed
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Heat treating is usually done before final tillering but I've done it after and it works,it's your call.maybe someone with more experience can add something.
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After a little thought,I wouldn't heat treat the entire limb on this bow cause the belly cells have already been somewhat crushed on the outer limb so treating the entire limb will likely over power the treatment on the outter
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Thank You very much for all your help Bushboy, I was going to heat treat it but will not be doing that, i'll be looking at flipping the tips tho.. Thanks again. Ed
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I wouldn't recommend flipping your tips on that bow. They are already thin enough to flex. Any recur ve he puts will pull out and may overstress and break in my humble opinion.
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May be,but if it were me I'd still try
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Of course he could always glue on an underlay.
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It worked for me before .I reduced the inners and yes the flip pulled out,but it pulled out straight,came light but I was happy with the tiller,gluing on an over lay is a good idea to.