Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DLH on May 21, 2013, 02:51:41 pm
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Anyone have their rasps sharpened? I didn't even know that it could be done until I ran up on a thread on a wood working forum. I looked into it and thought I would give it a try. I was given some old rusted farriers rasps along with what might be a Nicholson 49 but I can't tell its rusted so bad and its not in the picture. Here are the ones I am sending off along with three more.
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/4A898461-E384-4576-951D-2EE59CF10FFE-311-0000001A0C09EBCF_zps40b61c3e.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/4A898461-E384-4576-951D-2EE59CF10FFE-311-0000001A0C09EBCF_zps40b61c3e.jpg.html)
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Nah, I buy em new, take exceptionally good care of them and as they ultimately lose their edge, turn them loose on glass bows, and/or just pitch them. By that time, they've seen years of use and don't owe me anything.
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Just build you a forge and turn them into knives.
Grady
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An elder told me to soak them in vinegar to sharpen/de-rust them, seemed to work ok
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I did see on one woodworking forum that you could sharpen your rasps by leaving them in ..urine....or vinegar...!! never tried either
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An elder told me to soak them in vinegar to sharpen/de-rust them, seemed to work ok
How would vinegar sharpen it ??
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Let me know how it works and how much it is. I might have some old ones that could be touched up.
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vinegar works well. When you send them out, they soak them, I think, in some solution with even more uuumph than the vinegar. It does not sharpen them so much as it etchs the metal and dissolves any gunk. They will not be as sharp as when new, but well worth the effort, IMHO. I did my own a few yrs ago and would not hesitate to do it again. All you have to lose is the cost of a bottle of vinegar.
Once they come out of the bath, coat them with something ASAP (WD40) or they will rust as you watch.
Russ
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put them in a acid bath for about half hour like new but oil fast
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This place does not put them in acid. Several people on the flintlock building site have used them and liked the result. If your file is beyond hope they will tell you.
http://www.boggstool.com/
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Clint it cost forty cents an inch. I think the 49, 50, and cabinet rasp are 8.50 though. I don't have anything invested in the rasps since they were free and could definitely use sharpening. That is where I sent them Eric he told me they use abrasives driven by steam. The company has been in business since 1932 and have found good reviews from everyone. If the rasp fails their test after they sharpen it they charge 40 cents and it still has been improved according to them. The only part is shipping that was the worst part it was going to cost me 34 dollars priority mail then 23 standard and I finally figured out that a game board flat rate box was the best route. When I get them back I was planning on storing each rasp wrapped in a rag of wd40 to keep the rust at bay that sound like a good plan?
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I recieved my rasps back from sharpening and I am very pleased to say the least. I had a few rejected if you notice the red dye on the ends that what that means.
I don't have any pictures of the biggest one it was the sharpest I believe. I can take pictures and put them up of it if you want me to.
This is the second biggest it was rejected but it is still sharp this is my second favorite I believe.
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/4BC367F3-86AB-498B-9946-B5F0B6A7A22C-6007-0000050E5E8668CD_zps21f99570.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/4BC367F3-86AB-498B-9946-B5F0B6A7A22C-6007-0000050E5E8668CD_zps21f99570.jpg.html)
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/0439C4F6-73B5-4162-BEDC-29CFB7338A23-6007-0000050E6E7810CF_zps37e585a4.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/0439C4F6-73B5-4162-BEDC-29CFB7338A23-6007-0000050E6E7810CF_zps37e585a4.jpg.html)
This is the one I was most hopeful for but cuts the worst of the farriers rasps it was also rejected.
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/4367BDCA-E340-4BA7-AE74-08AF088BABF2-6007-0000050E12BB7FA6_zpsf0f8a5f5.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/4367BDCA-E340-4BA7-AE74-08AF088BABF2-6007-0000050E12BB7FA6_zpsf0f8a5f5.jpg.html)
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/F06F02DD-2C23-4A14-8E8F-46E2563E9CCB-6007-0000050E017981BC_zps12ad49cd.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/F06F02DD-2C23-4A14-8E8F-46E2563E9CCB-6007-0000050E017981BC_zps12ad49cd.jpg.html)
Here is the next biggest (weight wise) it aslo was rejected but I like it too I don't know if the bigger ones cut better or if the weight helps them out?
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/3629434F-643A-45A0-81C1-B79506A4F701-6007-0000050E407B4926_zps6b8f34e6.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/3629434F-643A-45A0-81C1-B79506A4F701-6007-0000050E407B4926_zps6b8f34e6.jpg.html)
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/DEF7D856-9687-4500-9A3A-0FDF39C098DF-6007-0000050E506F9797_zps717e61f2.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/DEF7D856-9687-4500-9A3A-0FDF39C098DF-6007-0000050E506F9797_zps717e61f2.jpg.html)
Here is the Nicolson its not a 49 or 50 it just has nicholson and made in the USA on it I also think the tip is broke off.
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/44ADD86A-478C-4F45-B9FD-810A3B781DAF-6007-0000050E23CA8839_zps58147456.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/44ADD86A-478C-4F45-B9FD-810A3B781DAF-6007-0000050E23CA8839_zps58147456.jpg.html)
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/7777F9CA-BFBC-4127-818B-AEBB4FD7BAB8-6007-0000050E32BC5B33_zps49032c42.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/7777F9CA-BFBC-4127-818B-AEBB4FD7BAB8-6007-0000050E32BC5B33_zps49032c42.jpg.html)
Just a bastard file that was rusted up and didn't cut very well it sharpened up nice too.\
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/971CCF7C-64AE-4DB6-A45B-5E7172D495D2-6007-0000050DF25D23EE_zpsa65beb82.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/971CCF7C-64AE-4DB6-A45B-5E7172D495D2-6007-0000050DF25D23EE_zpsa65beb82.jpg.html)
This is a Nicholson Cabinet rasp I knew it would be rejected its teeth very really bad when I sent them out looks like someone tried to use it for metal work.
(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l491/dnl17694/B3025AB6-ACB0-4384-A2CF-93A6BE776580-6007-0000050DE01C06A2_zps5fa70642.jpg) (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/dnl17694/media/B3025AB6-ACB0-4384-A2CF-93A6BE776580-6007-0000050DE01C06A2_zps5fa70642.jpg.html)
I also had the really large farriers rasp sharpened and it is my favorite it cuts the best in my opinion. I also sent off a rasp that looked very similar to a Nicholson 49 and thought I might get lucky but it ended up being a rasp made in West Germany. Does anyone know more about this rasp I can post pictures if needed? I won't use all of these rasps but it is cool to just have them something made in the USA which will be rare I believe in the future they might not be worth much but I think they are neat especially the West Germany rasp too. Overall I highly recommend Boggs tool for sharpening rasps I am pleased with them and will say they did a great job.
Thanks,
Daniel
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Boggs has done good work on my tools too.
It's amazing how well a truly sharp rasp will cut.
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The farrier that comes to the ranch says he will tune up his rasp on the buffing wheel.Works better on the coarse side then the finer side. Crg
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What did it cost for the sharpening ???
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So with the rejected rasps, were they sharpened and cleaned(and didn't pass the cut?) or just said nope, we can't sharpen these>
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They cleaned and sharpened mine then ,after QC checks, they pass or fail the tool. Heck, the "failed" ones still work better than they did before.
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Just soaked two farrier rasps I was gifted, they were used and a little bit rusty and clogged with horse hooves material. They now look like new and are fairly sharp. I soaked them over night in vinegar. While they were soaking, you could see bubbles drifting up off them for hours, even the next day bubbles were still rising. There was so much rust laying in the bottom of my little foil pan this morning, I was amazed. All the rust is gone. I wonder if taking a wooden or rubber block and using 320 grit sand paper and just running the block down the rasp, in the direction of the sharp edge, if that would just touch up the edges a bit, shouldn't take much to clean up the edge. Might give it a try on one of them tomorrow, cause I'm a redneck:)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/rasp.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/rasp.jpg.html)
Here is my little aluminum foil tray, had a slight leak at first but got it sealed:)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_20130623_144601_596.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/IMG_20130623_144601_596.jpg.html)
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Soakin em in Muriatic acid,sharpens em up pretty good too.They will never be as sharp as a new one,or at least the Brand i buy.I use em for a livin,so i buy the best.
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They sharpen them before they do a test on them to determine if they are rejected. I had all of these rasps sharpened for around 26 I think it was well worth it. I had several rasps rejected and the pattern makers rasp cost more.