Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bowhntineverythingnh03743 on March 28, 2013, 04:25:18 pm
-
Hey PA-
I wanted to try again with another selfbow. I wanted to start this thread on here to get your guys help. I haven't been able to get the selfbow mastered yet or even to stay as a bow. Today I pulled out a 52 inch osage stave which has been in my pile for about four years. I figured I would try this stave before starting one of my better ones. I wanted to have this bow a little over built so I made it 1 1/4 inch at the fades all the way out to about 3/4 of the limb, then to a straight taper of 1/2 inch tips. It felt good pulling out the draw knife today.
Anyways here is some pictures of where I am at....
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0083.jpg)(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0084.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0085.jpg)
Now I have some straightening to do... Should I use dry heat to straighten this out or steam straighten it for the first time?
-
I actually don't have any answers for you, but I'm interested to watch for whomever chimes in. I'm doing the exact same thing right now - it's actually my very first osage bow. I just landed my first osage staves this month and in my post-splitting process I ended up with a 36-40'' piece that I roughed out for a bow for my 4-yr old. The bending thing is my next step because the wood was (according to my cheap moisture meter) about 21% when I roughed it out and dropped to 16.5 in a couple of days. What started out straight is now twisted kinda funky. I have read about both dry and steam heat for osage, but was considering steam for my first real bending try. I've read some opinions that it's a little harder to screw up so long as you use a metal covering on the limbs while you're bending them (splinter prevention).
-
Dry heat Justin
-
Thanks Chris I was thinkin dry but thought you would strata me in the right direction. I want to try the elm recurve next so I thought I would give this lil bow a try first since my last did not make it.
-
My opinion, dry heat (which I prefer with dry Bodark). Looks like you need to move the tips about 4 inches???? I would try and get a lot of that out of the center (handle). Hard to say looking at a picture, but that's my take.
-
Dry heat the handle. You won't need much correction in the handle to really move the tips! Good luck and keep posting pics of this little cutie!
-
Dry heat on the 4-year osage. What works for me is parallel to mid-limb then straight taper to 1/2" at the tips. Kids bows can be harder to make than full length adult bows. Just a word of caution. Stiff spots are tougher to see. Also, belly wood removal to make tiller corrections will be less than with a reasonable poundage adult bow. Good luck on your venture and be sure post pics as you go. Can't wait to see your progress!