Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: twilightandmist on February 27, 2013, 05:54:28 pm
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This is my newest bow, and a joy to shoot. She's about 64 inches long, and draws 57 pounds at 28 inches. this bow is named as such because of the width of the limbs, as they are about 3/4 of an inch through a good deal of their length, swelling at mid limb, giving the bow the look of a small propeller. the tip overlays are black walnut. i will put a leather grip on it. almost forgot to mention, the handle is slightly right of the string, making the string land like a center cut rest. this bow was made for Horatio over at Paleoplanet, I hope he likes it :) As always, any comments, critiques, or advice is more than welcome and just as encouraged :) thanks for looking!
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s620/cmac7254/IMG_0224_zps6200e6da.jpg)
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s620/cmac7254/IMG_0223_zps06041200.jpg)
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s620/cmac7254/IMG_0226_zpsa87dfaf0.jpg)
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s620/cmac7254/IMG_0228_zps06e696e0.jpg)
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Jeez, that's a skinny one! :o Nicely done, looks like an awesome tiller.
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Looks real good! It doesn't take much osage if you do it right.
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im willing to be that the set came from making the limbs thinner. most bows i see of osage at about 1 1/4 inch wind up being little to no set, but set is good, it teaches you that it could be made better, of course, you may have only had 3/4 to work with, and you did a fine job of it.
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I think the set came from overstressing in the fade area. If the width is the widest at the mid limb like your saying, extra depth would have to be compensated in the fade area to prevent the wood from bending too much. Really nice bow though, with limbs that small i bet it's pretty darn fast!
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the width came from the fact that this is a side split from a flatbow i am working on right now, and i try never to waste anything.I think it turned into a fine bow all the same, and lightning fast! even with the set, she's a sweet shooter :)
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Nice job, use what you have is very cool. :)
Pappy
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were you cold when this picture was taken?
Nice bow
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Since ya asked ill give ya my two cents...
Tiller should be more elliptical due to your front profile...the apex of your bend is right outside of the fade area and its narrower there than further down the limb, so it should be stiffer there than mid limb and on...in doing so you would've encountered less set...you can see where you took most of your set near the fades...when you take set near the fades or handle area in a bend in the handle bow it exaggerates string follow a lot more than if you had taken the majority of your set mid limb and on for your front profile...it would've equated to a less set stricken bow.....also in doing so your moving mass would've been properly distributed as well equating into a faster better performing bow even if your bow is that narrow. And especially with it being so narrow you really need to spread and distribute the stress out much further and use it all instead of just one area.
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The problem with your type of set is that it doesnt stop "setting". Set happens as we all know, set due to improper tiller will keep going and going. That bow will probably take at least an inch more set the next 500 shots. I would consider giving away 5-8#s of draw weight to correct the tiller, then reshape it with heat. Im not blowing regurgitated smoke, Ive made bows myself that showed me this.
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Lol Blackhawk just said exactly what i was trying to get across haha. Well if it were me i would heat treat the fade area and that would make the wood harder/stiffer there, correcting the tiller. Heat-tillering is really handy actually.
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Nice job!