Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: YewArcher on October 20, 2007, 08:19:33 pm
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I have made seveal ELB's but this is my first atempt at a war bow. I built this using JD's build along back about 5 months ago. I am just getting the chance to finish it up and am looking to you experts that frequent here for advise and thoughts.
The bow is 75" nock to nock. Follows 5:6 Ratio Center of bow being 1 7/16". Pacific Yew.
The bow is Pulling 100@29". I am shooting for 110@32". I cannot yet get it back t 32" I am working into it.
I am wokring myself and the bow back to 32" and would like your thoughts on the tiller prior to proceeding. I would like it to check out before pulling that last few inches.
This pic represents a 29" draw:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/Mary%20Rose%20Replica/100_5032.jpg)
After I finish the bow I will post up a good write up about the bow and the arrows etc....
Thanks in advance for your help,
SJM
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Cant really comment on the tiller (looks ok to me but i've never made a bow ;D) but you'll have to alter your shooting style to shoot it at 32" comfortably.You may injure yourself pulling 100lbs Butt Bow style ;D, getting into the Bow isnt hard to do it just takes a bit of practice.
Pax
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Looks good so far :-)
BTW - I have only made 3 bows myself so I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination
but this may start off the discussion anyway ;-)
It looks to me like your bow is bending a lot at the tips and I worry it may over strain them if you take it to 32"
Here is a picture I took of my bow when I was trying to work out how it should be tillered which may help to explain?
it shows a circle which is what I believe we are aiming for
(http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.blackham/warbow/build1/circle.jpg)
Yours I think you would be best removing a bit of wood around the red area on this picture to take some strain off the tips
although there is always the danger of reducing the weight too much, so maybe taking a bit of the length of the bow may be a better option?
but, I am as interested as you to hear what the experts advise ?
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the tips do come around quite a bit comparing to the area between them. I am no expert with war bows though..
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Hi,
I agree, it's a bit whip tillered for a warbow. If you want to bring it further, get it bending more thru the handle. Bring the whole length around "full circle." If you try and bring it back more, you might break it, or cause a hinge. It'll be nice to shoot like it is, but it won't be a true "warbow."
Get "into" the draw a bit. Bend your knees, and round your back some, bending slightly forward at the waist. You're gonna rupture something shooting that heavy a bow with a straight up target style draw! Nice bow, otherwise!
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I would say the bottom limb looks a little weak in the last ten inches and maybe a little stiff between there and the handle and that is being a bit picky. It may be a good idea to take a few picks with slightly differing hand positions. Putting your hand half an inch or so higher on the bow may make a fiar amount of difference to the shape. Also, take more than one picture at full draw and look for an average. Bow shape can look different in different pictures, against different backgrounds etc. Whatever you do, you are only a few small scrapes away.
Your shooting stance looks fine to me. Some heavy bow archers stick their bums out, some don't. Mark Stetton sticks everthing out, Simon Stanley draws about as heavy a bow and has a relaxed upright stance like you do. Stick with what feels comfortable for you.
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Thanks for the info guys.
Here is the final tiller on the bow:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/Mary%20Rose%20Replica/100_5076.jpg)
SJM
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Hey, that looks better! Not so whip tillered. Bending nicely!
What are the final numbers? Did you actually retiller, or just a different camera angle?
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Looks good Yew, nice bow.
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Thanks guys,
The tiller was completed. The bow is 88#@32". That shot above is drawing to 29". Did not do the full 32" in the living room. Just in case....
Will be piking her in the next few weeks as I get her shot in to try and get it back to 95# or so. I had made up some 1/2" tapered oak shafts hoping for a heavier bow. I will need to now make up some 3/8" due to the light weight.
Will be finishing her up this weekend. Bees Wax.
SJM
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Hi,
Ooohh... give some serious consideration to piking that bow!!! Leave her as is. She looks good. If you want a heavier one, build another. Sell it... to me. How much?
Perfection is the enemy of good.
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lol abd!
You may just be right. I may just leave her as is. i will certainly build another and this can be my warm up bow. I am sorry though. I cannot sell bows. I love making them but as soon as I started selling them for money i think i would not enjoy making them anymore.
I am glad that you like it!
SJM
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Hi,
I'm employed full time as a paramedic, and a bowyer hobbyist. I started selling some of my bows about 2 years ago, because people asked. It's still a hobby, and I make and sell as I choose. I think it has taken my bow making skills to the next level. It will never escalate to the point where it becomes work. Nothing wrong with selling a bow here and there! Reconsider?
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Yes, I understand I get solicited to build bows all the time. Maybe one day. i would love to leave my current profession and do it full time though....maybe one day.
I am afraid i am gonna have to keep this one. At leats for now. I have never made a bow this heavy and really need to see how this one will be long term. I would hate to sell something that I am not experienced in and heavy bows like this are very new to me as a bowyer. I am not sure how much set this bow will take, if it will loose weight quickly, if it even has good performance pound for pound. Until I figure that all out and build quite a few more and feel comfortable with the design I would not even give one away. I would feel terriable if anything happened to it or you. These bows are big and scay and if it lest go....ohhhhh man look out.
I am fairly certain that it will not. That is my bowyers experince talking but at the same time this is a new animal for me.
Hope that makes sence.
SJM
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Turned out nice. On your next one keep the outer limb stiff then as you tiller out the final couple inches of draw you can soften them up.
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Dont know if anyone has covered this or not. But next time get the handle and to move durring the last couple inches of draw. Looks a bit stiff in the handle and just up from there on the upper limb. Nice job though! I love Yew wood!
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Yes, looks a bit stiff. I would bet that when she goes to 32" she will bend out.
We will see.
SJM
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The mid section is still somehow long and stiff. That said, MR originalls at least to judge from what seen on BBC were eliptically tilered, but with very high degree of circularity. A bow of this size when tilered perfectly circular will have the curve similar to circle of about 3 meters in diameter.
I found usefulon ANY bow to aim for wide tip, which both gives enough material midlimb toa chieve weight and also keeps the tips stiff and the set thus is minimalised. Also keeping the mid portion (means handle area plus minus 4´´ somehow stiff till the last tilering step is beneficial, because it is easy to overdo and end with bow which has too much mid-bend. Thus slow and shocky bastard.
Jaro
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Looks great to me. Wish I could make a bow like that.
No picture of a bow seems complete without a few baloons in the background.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118/simon2468/Picture6006.jpg)
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have you shot the bow much? I would think that they would have quite a bit of handshock. I made one for a guy who provided the stave, it was 72" long and came in at 65# @29" and shot very well, but had some hand shock to it. just curious if these heavy bows are a brute to shoot. :)
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No, they do not have that much hand shock. Remeber these are histirical replicas so even if they did they are what they are. The horn nocks are what cause the handshock that they do have. The next one that I make will not have horn nocks. I will use the side nocks.
I think the other factor is that if you are tough enough to pull a bow like that then a bit of handshock is really not an issue. ;)
SJM
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Ironic though it may seem, I have sometimes wondered if the whole purpose of the horn nock is to reduce tip weight. Imagine how heavy a Yew self nock would have to be to last thousands of shots on a 120+ pound bow. I think you would find that modest horn tips with carefully-piked bow tips would increase performance considerably over the bulky self-nock that is the alternative.
What do you think?
J. D.
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I would think if someone were to use horn like a tip overlay with sidenocks wouldnt you get the lower mass with the suport of the horn? Joel
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You bet. However, it may well have been impossible for them to have secured tip overlays with hide glue on long, rainy campaigns. Having no historical precedent for tip overlays make them out-of-bounds for replication. You will see some current war-type bows with tip overlays that are not intended to replicate--but to simulate. If that makes sense.
J. D.
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That makes a lot of sense. I didnt pay attention to the replicate part of the conversation. Joel
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Could not resist. Pretty nice.
(http://horsetrailerworld.com/rick/bowdraw.jpg)
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I like! Nicely done and very close to full eliptical tiller.
About overlay! I think you guys are right. I will be using overlays from now on on my yew bows since its such a bugger to get the horn nocks made, though they do look nice!
David T.
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Outer limb stiff is a Victorian idea along with stiff handgrip area. Tudor rules were otherwise. Ascham says 'round compasse'.
There is no doubt that means the arc of a circle as your bow was before 'correction'. Ascham also says to whip the ends after a period of shooting, 'but not too much lest they whip in sunder', meaning thin them close to breaking point. This was thought to increase cast. You can see that MR bows were thinned in the last foot or so, one having even been whipped after the nocks were attached. No doubt many bowyers will prefer the improvements over those inferiorTudor ideass.
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The tiller looks much better like this.....nice done..... ;)