Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Matt Heppe on February 04, 2013, 10:47:32 pm
-
Made it past a critical stage tonight, so thought it was safe enough to share.
I started with a 1 x 2.5 x 8' board. It has nice quartersawn grain, but the wood itself isn't that pretty. That's OK, because I like to paint my bows, and already know what she's going to look like when all is done. I used a hand plane to get her roughed out, and then a file to round of the edges.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L5PphC-p53I/URBonSP5A5I/AAAAAAAABOs/pGNHDApW7w0/s721/F7CFB14F-0F0F-4C49-BC7E-F10509317E10.JPG)
I've done a recurve with glued on siyahs, but I've never bent wood. Well, this seemed like a great time to try something new. I built this ugly little bending frame...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5DtjQ_oDNqI/URBonfMlZxI/AAAAAAAABOs/8xLolTsDcSU/s961/3510E2CF-6292-4E70-B7E7-B92278A43C95.JPG)
And started boiling my roughed-out bow. My wife thought the whole operation was nuts.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Cg6QKVeBDEw/URBonZ6Z6PI/AAAAAAAABOs/ONWVkYcS63g/s721/E2E21F17-E00C-40A6-9C5F-75EA13649F4A.JPG)
The plan was to boil two 3/8 hickory slats that I would put on either side of the bow... one to keep belly splinters from rising, the other to help form a smooth arc.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4-A2Ajql_wM/URBonWXpxpI/AAAAAAAABOs/yJZFSA9dDqw/s961/494DB2B0-E0C7-4CC3-A23B-016DED0A3A01.JPG)
And I started bending...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vq1bxAavhGk/URBonUSkvMI/AAAAAAAABOs/sl9a1tod1wA/s721/D9DFF17D-5D19-4710-8844-B7414D895E93.JPG)
And she didn't break! A small splinter came up on one limb, but it will easily sand out. I was surprised at how easily the wood bent.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-10nLGVYbJbU/URBona_EUcI/AAAAAAAABOs/lT9_go2K3ok/s721/9E413C74-0521-4366-AEB6-9C976C19F210.JPG)
Now to get a low brace. I'll post more as I make progress. I'm not going to give out details quite yet. A least a few bow-trade secrets will make it more fun.
-
All right! Nice bend!
-
I second that.
-
Just make sure you don't bend the other limb the other way!!!!
I won't say just WHO did it. For his sake, I won't post his username here! But his real name is John Halverson.
-
Just make sure you don't bend the other limb the other way!!!!
I won't say just WHO did it. For his sake, I won't post his username here! But his real name is John Halverson.
There is nothing wrong with that John it was just an asymmetrical refex deflex bow.
Grady
-
I'll admit, I did look over my shoulder at one point to make sure I wasn't going the wrong way!
-
I don't recal seeing that one posted JW. How did it shoot? Bow is looking good Matt!
-
hahahahaha JW that is awesome. I totally scared the cr#p out of myself one time,after I had made the bend. Turns out I was looking at the form, not the bow. Phew. Totally something I would do though.
Gabe
-
I have made some more progress.
Added some tip overlays.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5KMjJpN-5oQ/UTJc35XRd9I/AAAAAAAABZI/sat2Z7O7Knw/s748/7420F0B5-B7CB-4258-95AC-5F28E4A62AE0.JPG)
Finished tillering and got her on the short string.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dQWDySL5rHo/UTJfPtpvEKI/AAAAAAAABcQ/dOJgp9_0D98/s997/5B01D240-96BC-4C1F-AE56-8B47F587CEB3.JPG)
She took and inch and a quarter of set.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Su1iSPXsLhI/UTJfPubxCyI/AAAAAAAABcc/te_T7WfjCVA/s748/3551D35E-398B-4CF3-B17A-9865135CDFDA.JPG)
Unbraced profile.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WgJL5p1okiA/UTJfPj2fCwI/AAAAAAAABcY/V_CGX1vqDw0/s997/597729CF-9C72-43DD-9473-918558719CC7.JPG)
Here is a full draw (~27") shot.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SrsGKWy2brA/UTJjiY5uPaI/AAAAAAAABcw/yB_1TbaZxJg/s748/photo.jpg)
I put around 50 arrows through her so far. I like the way she shoots.
Next steps.
1) Make a final string.
2) Shoot more.
3) Final sanding.
4) Paint job and poly.
5) Add a grip.
6) Mail.
-
Nice. Now I want to do some recurves!
-
Man that looks nice.
Grady
-
Looks awesome!!!
OneBow
-
Great job. Tips turned out sweet. 1 1/4 --- 1 1/2 inch set is 'bout the norm.
-
good job on those tip bends, the bottom limb look's to me like it needs to bend a little iner third, I think you can see it in braced and f/d, Bub
-
She's done! Here are a few more photos, but no money shot yet.
I took the "RED" in Red Oak seriously.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PX29oTmeTLk/UWDKI7NT5MI/AAAAAAAABn0/Y4zEZXYxYWg/s996/IMG_1062.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2QP0ch8Rv-M/UWDKPUrYmAI/AAAAAAAABn8/m-GEQdRSMok/s996/IMG_1063.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bwn4xwyhOG4/UWDKVssbzNI/AAAAAAAABoE/3Xd9cEiaKSY/s996/IMG_1064.jpg)
Final sanding left one limb slightly out of balance with the other. Wish I had noticed before painting! ARGH! Still the nicest bow I have made yet.
Had her out shooting today. Really zips an arrow. Going to miss this bow when she's gone.
-
Matt that is awesome man! I love recurves! I'm going to have to make one now that I've seen someone do it with red oak. What was the final draw weight on that thing?
-
I have to say, that is one sweet bow matt! unfortunately unless you just undertillered and figured i would be able to draw it the rest of the way then i doubt its coming my way lol. Very nice bow either way!
-
Ah man that has some really nice recurved tips. Great job
-
Thanks for the nice comments. I'll try to post some more (full bow) pics tomorrow.
Ben, the bow draws 47# @ 28"
-
She's ready to go. The tiller looks a little off in the pic as I had it held at an angle. (And because the tiller is a little off). Sad to see it go as it is my favorite bow so far.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7eWToVJXF10/UWa0S2H1KfI/AAAAAAAABpU/lVgzJFZ4fb0/s769/164A055B-A4F1-46E3-B813-5093CA0CC9F9.JPG)
Shipping will be slightly delayed as I used the "eyeball" method of measuring the pvc tube at Lowes and now need to get a longer tube.
-
That's a sweet looking bow Matt the recipient is going to be very pleased indeed.
-
Nice bow, Matt! That red looks good! ;)
-
If you go to a flooring supply place, you could get a cardboard tube for free and cut to whateve length you need. The ones used for shipping the aluminum edging (Schluter)can be stood upon! And it's FREE!
-
Thanks, lost. I'll try that.
-
Well, i just came in from the garage. The results, red oak bow 5 bowyer 0. Was looking GREAT! got it to 5.75 inch brace and took it slowly to full draw. got there for a second or two, then BOOM! turns out all you folks that said that the glued on handle section would pop off if the boards thickness was the same when you glue on the handle section. well you guys where right. It blew up right at the handle. I am not hurt, but i should say, i had done this and then reported in, and after hearing that it would likely end up in a popped off handle i figured i would go for it! i guess the glue line was very strong, because it held till the LAST inch of draw! Here are the pics of the break.
-
Sadly this was looking to be a 50 lb at the draw i needed.
-
That bow is far from dead. Very far from it in fact. Lay out a splice to insert a new center piece to that handle, trim up the damage, then lay in your new handle. After that, build up your belly and back with a laminate, shape and shoot :)
-
do you have any build alongs for this? or something like that? I would want to do it right.
-
You will need a double fish tail splice. I have no build along that I have done, but I have spliced may billets together. My favorite and most easy splice is the scarf joint, but you dont have the material for that. Each limb needs to be cut to the shape of the female end of the fish tail splice, then make a double male joint to fill in the area between the two females.
I have done this on tip levers before. Ensure the best glue lines you can get, and fill any voids with glue sawdust mix. Go heavy on the glue in the mix. After that has dried a day, laminate on your belly handle riser, then for good measure ( though probably not needed ) a thin riser on the back as well. Once dry for 24 hours minimum ( assuming you use TBIII ) shape the handle and stress the joint. My money is on your handle will never break again.
Like I said, I have done this on tip leavers in the past and they hold just fine. Will try to find some pics of it. But look up fish tail splices to see what I mean, and make them as long as you can to get the most surface area glued up as possible. You want a minimum of 8 to 1 length to thickness ratio of contact surface area in your splice.
-
That bow is far from dead. Very far from it in fact. Lay out a splice to insert a new center piece to that handle, trim up the damage, then lay in your new handle. After that, build up your belly and back with a laminate, shape and shoot :)
OK Sleek, you have my interest, now. I'm guessing at the repairs you're suggesting. I can see cutting the broken section of the handle area for the main board and doing a "filler piece" with a V-splice on each to put the main board back together. Now the tricky part-- gluing in the lams. I"m guessing you'd use 1/8" lams maybe 2 of them stair stepping from the hand riser out into the fades on the belly. The handle riser would then be glued to them? On the back, you'd glue an 1/8" or slight thicker lam a bit longer than the V-splice? Or, maybe, the same lenght of the hand then another lam over that one the length of the V-splice.
Like Ionicmuffin, I'm really interested in a more detailed discription. A drawing would be awesome.
-
This is the splice i think hes talking about. http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/13802
I think thats what ill do, ill add a few thin layers that are from fade to fade, then ill take the handle section and add it on top of that, and ill add the riser on the back(same thickness.) Did i get that right? Im glad you said something about fixing it.
-
This is how im envisioning the repair panning out.
-
Muffin, that's about what I was thinking, also. I'm just wondering how far out to the fades you should go? Heck, if I were doing that much gluing, I'd do another lam on the back to give more wood to round off as a grip. Of course using different types of wood would make it look very pretty.
Matt, we COMPLETELY hijacked your thread. I apologize, but this repair talk fasinated me. Good looking bow.
-
oops, didnt realize this was his thread for his bow. Thought it was a thread for progress on the trade.
-
Gimme a sec, I am putting a response with pics together...
-
Ok, that link you posted, its a W splice. I dont think you have material enough for a splice that wide. Int this splice i am going to show you you will see its a diamond cut out inserted into the middle of the two broken limbs. If done properly, you will never see the actual splice.
(http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/rocketernally/2013-04-13005751_zps799141bc.jpg) (http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/rocketernally/media/2013-04-13005751_zps799141bc.jpg.html)
The white paper is the diamond. Make two of these. Glue one onto the piece you are going to insert into the splice, and another onto the broken bow where the splice will be inserted.
Once both are cut, insert the new center piece into the two bow limbs.
(http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/rocketernally/2013-04-13005814_zps46dfe942.jpg) (http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/rocketernally/media/2013-04-13005814_zps46dfe942.jpg.html)
This bow is a bow I did this splice on. The lower limb broke first, I spliced it, then the upper broke, pictured here. My finger is pointing at the only seam you can see. And it is where the tow pieces of wood touched before the break. I lost ZERO bow length on this splice.
(http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/rocketernally/2013-04-13010818_zps4a0ab80b.jpg) (http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/rocketernally/media/2013-04-13010818_zps4a0ab80b.jpg.html)
I havent fixed the upper limb yet, but this is the bow with the back lam on it. I made it very proud for artistic reasons. It didnt need to be.
(http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i411/rocketernally/2013-04-13010855_zpsffb48fa4.jpg) (http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/rocketernally/media/2013-04-13010855_zpsffb48fa4.jpg.html)
You will need to expand the length of your fades out a bit. About an inch per fade. That will reduce the leverage force against your splice. Build up your riser on the handle belly in the normal way. A back lam will also help, but again, if the belly is done right, you may not need it. Better to have it though.
-
Its really not a complicated job, and can look very good once done. Its also very strong. This bow was a 40@28 bow before it let go the first time. I fixed it then the opposite limb let loose in the same spot. I quit caring then, but kept the bow cause it may make a 30 pounder for target. The limbs broke due to tryin to recurve them. Ash, in my experience, doesnt like to recurve. By the way, I also lost all faith in silk for a backing material.
-
ok, i see what your saying, i should also probably make it as long as possible. well see how it turns out!
-
Yup, long is good. Just try to stay out of your fades. Good luck bud and post pics:)
-
sleek, would you happen to have any more info on that "diamond splice" that you pictured? perhaps a how-to of someone doing one?
a few months back i broke a friends first self bow from a stave that he made. it snapped at the limb similar to the one you pictured. it broke due to a poor tiller, but i still feel horrible because i was the one pulling the string :o im wondering if i'd be able to repair it for him with this diamond splice!
-
The splice is really simple as it looks. I reckon you could call it a diamond splice, but its really a double fishtail. Either way.... A splice in the working limb is darn near impossible, unless you back the entire bow, in which case, it would be very easy. Though, it wouldnt be a self bow anymore. Most will also tell you to just make another bow at that point also. Sooooo sorry about the hijacking. Probably the worst anybody has ever done.
-
No problem on the hijacking. It was good info.
I just wanted to update on my trade bow. I was unhappy with some polyurethane drips on the belly of the bow, so I sanded it off, repainted, and put a new coat of urethane on tonight. A few more coats and I'll ship it out. Probably on Wednesday. Sorry for the delay, but I want to send out my best work.
-
Thanks for being cool about it. Wonder if anybody thinks I should do a build alnong on this splice method? I can do one for the broken tip, and do one for a billet splice on an ash board bow I want to build.
-
Shipped! Your bow should arrive on Tuesday. You don't have to sign for it.
I took her out and put 80 arrows through her last night. I love this bow. Making a recurve was great fun and I look forward to doing more.
If you are good at leatherwork I think a black leather grip would look great. I've never worked with leather, so I put a satin cord wrap around the handle. It is a shoot off the knuckle bow, which is my favorite. You could add a floppy rest if you want to.
Enjoy! I think she really zips an arrow.
Best,
Matt
-
Hey Matt! I got your bow today. Let me just say that I couldn't be more happy nor could I have picked a bow that I would want anymore. I've always wanted a recurve. I just want to say thank you so much for all of your hard work. This thing is truly awesome. I wouldn't change a thing. I love the cord wrapped handle and the finish. This thing is awesome. Again thank you so much. I LOVE it!!!!
-
Great to hear, Ben! It got there faster than I expected. I loved making that bow. I will definitely be making more recurves. Let me know how it shoots for you.
Matt