Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: akila on October 14, 2007, 10:36:12 am
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Hy guys i wood realy apreciated iff you could help me a little with this bow.its a sinew backed bow ash, its 175 cm long and my draw length is 72 cm.I made a picture with the bow on the tiller stick.Im waiting for your advice.Thks. a lot.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140115.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140114.jpg)
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Looks like you're off to a good start. I would start getting it to bend just a bit more out of the fades and work out the limbs from there. Go slow, and exercise the wood a lot between scrapings. If my cm-inches conversion is accurate, the bow is 70" long? That's way long for a sinewed bow, seems like. I'd probably shorten it several inches myself. Sinew on long limbs can add a lot of weight and bog it down. How many courses of sinew are on it?
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Hy ..yess the bow is 70"....and i must be onest ...i woudn want to shorten it..becose i already have make the tips with cow horn and i realy dont want to do the tips again.I put 2 layers of sinew.Can you plz tell me whatt do you mean by "out of the fades"? sorry for the stupid question .but im not verry familiar with those therms yet. :-[.
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He means where the Ridged handle "fades" into the working limb. ;)
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Here is another picture after some more scraping...do you see any diferens... :-\??
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140114-1.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140114-1.jpg)
Ant this one is made with the bow strung a little more...35 cm with a long string.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140114-3.jpg)
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Looks good enough to get the short string on it. :)
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Well....here is another picture after some little scraping....i wass trying to put a little more bend in the middle area of the limb and this is the result..
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140121.jpg).
How short the string should be... and at this moment it pretty heavy...it pulls @ 55# on a 16" length with the long string.The bow has already taken some set..1" of deflex.Maybe the wood would come back to his initial form :-\ ? im thinking that the sinew will pull back the wood...but who nows...?
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Looks good. Do you have an unstrung picture? How long has the sinew been on? You can take the sinew off ,back to a typical sinewed bow length ,to get rid of the extra mass problem Hillbilly mentioned .Just wrap the new ends of the sinew .
Ralph
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I made some new pictures....here you can see where the sinew stops...just next to the tips.In the next pictures you can see that the bow has taken an all most 2" set and in the last picture you can see a full draw of the bow.Its 70" long bow, and its 65# with an 29" draw lenght.I dont know why the bow has taken this set..and i must say that its not the first time whenn this happent to me on a ash bow.I have made 3 mounth a go a flat long bow with the same lenght 70" and has taken the exact set like this one here.The plans to build the boe i got themm from this site:http://www.vintageprojects.com/archery/bow-plans.html.I must say that i did not treat the belly of the bow with heat gun..so...this is it...i dont know whatt to say.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140122.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140121-1.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140120.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA140124.jpg)
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are there any compression fractures in the belly of the bow near the handle? I would definitely get it bending more from the middle of the limbs and not so much in the near handle region. not that the tiller is awful, but for a sinew backed bow to work well for many years, the tiller has to be spot on perfect. it also takes some time to get the bow bending after reducing wood.
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are there any compression fractures in the belly of the bow near the handle? I would definitely get it bending more from the middle of the limbs and not so much in the near handle region. not that the tiller is awful, but for a sinew backed bow to work well for many years, the tiller has to be spot on perfect. it also takes some time to get the bow bending after reducing wood.
There is no compression fractures on the belly of the bow...but i didnt apsect the bow to take this set....specialy that the bow is sinew backed....so you think i should bend it more in the middle area of the limb? :-\
Hello guys...i have done some more scraping on the middle area of the limb and this is how it looks.Probably will look much better after using and bending the bow a little more and after shoting some arrows with him.Can you give me some ideeas for a finish of the bow?? i know Snake skinn is realy good but i dont have something like that here so...i wass wondering if i can put some nitrolack on him.I dont know iff this is how its spells this word but the stuff is used for finishing on yahts or bowts..(sorry for my english).
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/PA150120.jpg).
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With the bow taking that much set I would think that the sinew may nor be fully cured. Even if it has been on the bow for some time it may not be dry enough if the humidity is not low enough to force the moisture out.
The tiller is looking better, I agree the outer/mid limb should be working more because of the length of the bow and the fact that it is sinewed.
Just my opinions.
Take care.
Mark
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Did you string it with the long string? If not you should. Long string tiller looks good. Set is something the beginner should not worry about. IMHo.Jawge
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With the bow taking that much set I would think that the sinew may nor be fully cured. Even if it has been on the bow for some time it may not be dry enough if the humidity is not low enough to force the moisture out.
The tiller is looking better, I agree the outer/mid limb should be working more because of the length of the bow and the fact that it is sinewed.
Just my opinions.
Take care.
Mark
The bow wass stay a mounth and 2 weecks to cure....i dont know aboute the humidity... he wass stayin inside the house where it wass aboute 25 degrees celsius.The outer mid limb is the part right in the middle of the limb,or just a little more to the tips???And can plz.. somone give me and advise on whatt finish i could put on this sinew bow,,to protect the sinew from thumidity?
And yesss the bow wass string with a long string first, and thenn i have shorten the string and i strung the bow to an 3" of deflex and i tiller again.Right now the bow pulls 65# at 29" draw lenght and have 2 " of set.The bow have a realy smouth draw...i mean i can pull it verry easey, even iff its 65#.Thks a lot for your help..this is my first sinew bow so....im learning ;D
I just remeber something that i might be important...the sinew that i used ,is domestic cow...you think that it has any importance??could this be the reason that the bow has taken this set..?It wass the only sinew that i could find arround here so...this is it :-[
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I think you just found the problem. sinew, like muscles develop to certain needs, and domestic cow's sinew is not even half as good as moose or deer sinew. You could put that stuff that they use on boats to protect it from moisture. even then the draw weight depends dramatically on the time of the year and the moisture content of the air.
My sinew backed bow had 45# when I finished it around December last year, and in march it pulled 72# :o
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One thing that will also cause the set is if you are keeping it on the tiller stick at full draw for
a long amount of time. I just use the stick till I can get a string on it,then go to a tillering board.Pull look quickly,mark what it needs and let off,never holding for a long time.Since I quit using the stick for the longer than brace and full draw tiller my set has went way down. :) Just some thoughts.
Pappy
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even while using a stick a sinew backed bow should not take that much of set. I sill say that it's because of the cow sinew.
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Thk, you so much for all your help...i must say this again ...this forum is grate.I think that Pappy is right to...i must say that whenn i put the bow on the tillering stik i leave it strung for to much time becose i dont have the eye verry sharp yet so i think that for evrey scale on the stick i stay for aboute 1 minute untill i realise whatt is to be done, and untill i go and take a picture also so.... the true must be somwhere in the middle.Also the sinew is not the best that i can find so...this is it.but i beleve that the sinew is the major problem to the set,becose i wass aspecting that the sinew to pull the boe into some reflex after curing his self but this think didnt happent at all...so i realy think that the sinew is the big problem here, and offcourse the fact that i should be more quiqly whenn i look at the bow on the tiller stick.The problem is that here in Romania wi cant find the variety of materials that you have there so wi must work with whatt wi got.
I want you to ask you one more thing...from the last picture that i post...do you think that i should try to make the bow bend a little more in the middle area ..or i can leave it like that???and finish it ?thk. you all for your help...i will put some picture whenn the bow is finish.
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I think it looks pretty dang good myself. I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of set, either. That amount shouldn't hurt you at all. The sinew will probably continue to cure with time, also.
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What Hillbilly said. :)
Pappy
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Thks a lot.. i will finish it this days and i will put some pictures.
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You are using a tillering stick? About 15 years ago my first and last tillering stick helped me start a nice fire in my wood stove. They are infernal abominations! Jawge
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Sorry about the tillering stick rant. LOL. Over the years everyone seems to expect it from me. :) BTW the stave is bending too much near the fades. i think someone mentioned that so don't touch that area anymore. I think you need more bending mid limb on too. :) Jawge
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I use a digital camera while final tillering, while on the tree, have the camera ready, flex the bow, snap a pic real quick then study the picture. It can be a pain so i only do this for the last inch or two of draw.
Although I agree with the others that the set is no big deal, I think it tells you that something was not quite as it should be.
Mark
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Sorry about the tillering stick rant. LOL. Over the years everyone seems to expect it from me. :) BTW the stave is bending too much near the fades. i think someone mentioned that so don't touch that area anymore. I think you need more bending mid limb on too. :) Jawge
Hy and thks for advise....yess i dont like it either..this tillering stick,but its the only option for the moment..i have seen that you guys use something diferent that is much better then this tiller stick,but i dont have room in my house to install a device like that.I will try to work on the mid limb again ..thks a lot.
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I use a digital camera while final tillering, while on the tree, have the camera ready, flex the bow, snap a pic real quick then study the picture. It can be a pain so i only do this for the last inch or two of draw.
Although I agree with the others that the set is no big deal, I think it tells you that something was not quite as it should be.
Mark
Yess i know..i have to learn to be more quiqly when the bow is on the tillerring stick, and not leave him to much strung on the stick.
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I understand. Mine clamps into my vice. See Bow Making Directions on my site. jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/archer.html
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Hy all.....this is the sinew backed bow after some more scraping...and my new tiller tree..it works gr8..its much easey to work with...thks for advise.Is it ok like this or it needs more bending in the mid limb area?
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x212/Akila_07/tiller2.jpg)