Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: BigWapiti on September 30, 2007, 01:24:45 pm

Title: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: BigWapiti on September 30, 2007, 01:24:45 pm
I have ordered the Boyer's Bible, just last night.

But was out walking the woods last night and while there grabbed some vine maple for staves.  I also grabbed some VM shoots, do they make good arrows??  should I peel them first or let them cure (how long?)?

Also, re cedar arrows.  do you use the cedar shoots (I assume this means young trees) or branches?

I was looking at the seemingly dead, but still flexible, bottom branches of the larger cedar trees.  the eye pokers, of the forest...  the one's sticking out of the the bottom trunk, without leaves.   Do they make good arrows if cut and cured?  maybe not enough sap in them to straighten... just curiuos.

Thanks!!  What a great site, didn't even know it existed.  Thanks all.
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: DBernier on September 30, 2007, 02:47:32 pm
Welcome BigWapiti, It would help if you filled in your location, state, in your stats. Saves time for others so they don't have to ask. Then some of the people could give better advice and alternative arrow making "stuff"

Dick
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: BigWapiti on September 30, 2007, 03:41:20 pm
done.

Central Washington State.
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: Hillbilly on September 30, 2007, 06:32:40 pm
Commercial cedar arrows are usally made from logs-split or sawed into boards, then made into dowels. You can do it yourself, I've made them that way from pine and poplar. Never tried VM shoots, but red maple shoots work, so give them a try.
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: DBernier on September 30, 2007, 07:12:19 pm
What I would do, depending on your bow weight, is find a cedar arrow that works good. Then try and spine a VM one to that weight. Be careful you do not go too light in spine because there is a chance you could shatter the arrow on release and injure yourself. Take care.

Dick
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: DanaM on September 30, 2007, 08:24:35 pm
Define cedar, here in northern michigan cedar is northern white cedar other places its eastern red cedar which is a juniper, common names are misleading at best.
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: BigWapiti on September 30, 2007, 09:46:29 pm
Define cedar, here in northern michigan cedar is northern white cedar other places its eastern red cedar which is a juniper, common names are misleading at best.

Good point - this is Western Red Cedar, here in WA state.
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: BigWapiti on September 30, 2007, 09:49:52 pm
Be careful you do not go too light in spine because there is a chance you could shatter the arrow on release and injure yourself. Take care.

Yikes, I just envisioned myself with half an arrow stuck into my artery - I think i better wait for my book.  Matching a spine...  not even sure how to do that other than give it a hand bend for feel??   

Do you guys wear welders gloves with leather going up the arm to test shoot your arrows?  This sounds tongue in cheek, but its an honest consideration.  One wierd defect and you could be in hurt on that first shot, no?
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: DanaM on October 01, 2007, 05:45:13 am
Nope Its just all part of the fun ;D
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: Hillbilly on October 01, 2007, 08:44:17 am
If you've got the first volume of the bowyer's bible coming, it has an excellent arrow making chapter by Jay Massey. He covers both split timber and shoot shafts.
Title: Re: Cedar question - brand new to this
Post by: DBernier on October 01, 2007, 09:55:38 am
Hillbilly got it right and I meant Port orford cedar (POC)

Dick