Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: autologus on September 17, 2012, 10:44:19 am
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We have had lots of interest in this with 14 people so far wanting to participate so I have put together a list of names that have said they would take part in this. I thought I would also post the "limitations" of the trade and the deadlines for others that may want to join.
A bow made from a Red Oak board, it may be backed for safety or aesthetics but not with wood or bamboo.
Lets shoot for 40#+ unless the recipient would like a lighter bow, Red Oak boards have their limitations on safe draw weights so if the builder is comfortable with building a higher weight bow that's fine.
Deadline for entry is October 1st.
Deadline for completion is March 31st.
Here is a list of people that have agreed to take part in the trade.
tattoo dave
sharpend60
sa
Matt Heppe
johnston
nativenoobowyer86
fishfinder401
driftingrz
lostarrow
foolishman
WoodBenderDW
NruJaC
autologus
ojibwatbowyer
If you would like to take part please reply to this thread and let me know I will add you to the list and if you would like to be removed from the list do likewise. I am looking forward to getting started on another bow it is just too bad I can't make a living doing this, maybe if I ever strike it rich.
Grady
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i would like to be added.
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Hey! I'd like to participate in the red oak trade, if I can be added. It sounds like a great idea to me!
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Here is the revised list for the trade, if you could please PM me the following so I can be ready to send out the information when the deadline is over.
Name
Shipping Address
Draw length
Right/Left hand preference
Preferred draw weight
tattoo dave
sharpend60
sa
Matt Heppe
nativenoobowyer86
fishfinder401
driftingrz
lostarrow
foolishman
WoodBenderDW
NruJaC
autologus
ojibwatbowyer
ionicmuffin
oscar3b
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I read in the rules that we didn't want to do wood backed with a different species, ...but I'm wondering if I could talk you into an exception for backing Red Oak with Red Oak? I'm thinking an 1/8 lam of quartersawn or riftsawn Red Oak could make a big difference in the survivability of a Red Oak board bow. What do y'all think? Can we do this?
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I guess if no one has any opposition to this I suppose we could do that.
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i dont see why a RO backed RO would be a problem. or it would be the Red Oak Self-Board-bow trade :P
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Count me in. I didn't want to commit until I found a red oak board. Only one store in town that carries them and I didn't want to search a 50 mile circle to find a board. Well, I found one today.
PM sent in a moment.
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I don't care if we use RO as a backing, but in my opinion, RO can make a perfectly good self bow. Just my 2 cents. ;)
Tattoo Dave
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Count me in;)
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Count me in... Now time to do some searching for a board
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I found my board, first one i looked at too :o
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Lucky, I have been to every Big Orange Depot and The other one that is exactly the same but in Blue... for 20 miles and the only one I found was a 1x1x36... granted I bought to make a mini but the hunt continues for me.
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I have been lucky and found 2 1x3x12 and have made 8 boards to use, but I have broken 2 of them trying to make shorties. Guess I will have to try something a little longer.
Grady
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I've been setting aside boards for a year now. Just have to pick one and a style. When do we get the names?
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Dang, im excited for this trade! Cant wait to see who im building for!
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I will get the list together today and see who I still need information on and try to get them out today. Does anyone have a problem shipping to Canada or the U.S.?
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no problems.declare as gift to avoid duties I guess.
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If it's not to late count me in.
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I will get you in Matt.
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I will get into the next one. I've only made one bow so far, and that was a 20# for my nephews. My only other attempt broke in 1/2. :( I would hate to saddle someone with a piece of firewood. :P.
Gordon
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i dont think i can ship to Canada. im on the "money earned is hard earned" side of things, so shipping to Canada could break my bank. Sorry about that, anywhere in the US is fine.
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I can't ship to Canada either... please keep me in the US
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i don't have a problem shipping to canada.
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Ok here is the final list of participants, I have all of the contact information except one and I have sent a PM requesting it. When I get the final info I will make the assignments and send out the PMs. I have gotten requests from some to not be assigned certain participants because they are friends and have swapped bows before and would like someone different. If there are any other requests like that please send me a PM soon before I send everyone their recipient. I will try to not assign someone that is from the same area to try to eliminate that possibility and will try to keep the Canadians together for ease of shipping unless you prefer not too.
tattoo dave
Sa
Matt Heppe
nativenoobowyer86
fishfinder401
driftingrz
lostarrow
foolishman
WoodBenderDW
NruJaC
autologus
ojibwatbowyer
ionicmuffin
oscar3b
hedgeapple
doulosparachristos
bowhntineverythingnh03743
Matt S.
Thanks,
Grady
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Ok, all of the assignments have been made, I am waiting on one persons preference information but everyone should know who their recipient is. The clock is ticking and I hope your bows are not. Don't forget to post plenty of pictures we all want to see the beautiful bows that will be produced.
Grady
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I got my board today! The grain looks good enough to be a self-bow but for Trade durability, i will back it with canvas. I will post pics when i decide on a profile and rough it out a bit. Im pumped! :D
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Here is my progress so far. It is a bend in the handle flat rectangular cross section D-bow with slightly flipped tips. It is 54" ntn and pulls 43# at 28". It shoots pretty well and will fling an arrow with authority. I will post more pictures when it gets finished.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/autologus/20121011_224255.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/autologus/20121011_224048.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/autologus/20121011_224131.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/autologus/20121011_224212.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/autologus/20121011_224311.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/autologus/20121011_224439.jpg)
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That looks like a beautiful Red Oak Bow! I really like the style of your string nocks. I can't wait to get started on mine...
BTW - Why did you include the picture of lawn mower parts in the foreground there?
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That is my sons bow, he is 12 and still needs training wheels. >:D
Grady
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That's an awesome bow. That is exactly what I love about primitive bows. Simple and beautiful at the same time.
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How is everyone doing on your bows? I just got the backing on mine, brown kraft paper :) ive got a pyramid bow in the works 65" TtT 2 1/4 at the fades down to 1/2 at the tip, possibly with a working handle section 1 1/4 wide about 5 1/2 in long, but the bow is long/wide enough that it doesnt need to bend in the handle really :) My guy wants a few lbs lower than i like to shoot/make so it should be a pretty standard board bow build for me.
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I'm going to have to start over. My shorty just could not hold up to that draw length and chrysled like crazy. I will make another like it but longer.
Grady
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Ive got my board but not much time on my hands, the little time I do have ive been doind sinew and preparing for christmas break. Ill have three weeks solid to work on bows. Got some goodies on order too ;)
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i have mine at low brace ....so far so good .
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Just finishing a hickory for a commission and have to shoot it in. Maybe today after the pumpkin patch.Trade bow roughed out ,but I will probably make 2 or 3 and choose the best.
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I was just wondering how this was going? Can't wait to see some pics.
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Still just in the design phase. I'm also planning to make a few at the same time to assure that I get at least one to come out well enough to be sent to my recipient. I can always find homes for them if I come out with extra bows... ;D
My guy has a longer draw length than mine so I'll have to practice myself up to be able to shoot it in properly. I once saw a stand brace that was used to hold the bow and allow you to shoot it with one hand. I wonder if something like that would allow me to shoot in a bow with a longer draw length than I normally do???
OneBow
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From start to a tillered bow(not including finishes/handles) how long does it take most of you guys to complete a board bow?
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i can usually finish one in a week or two just working a little bit each day , i just had mine at full brace @ about 26'' and it started to crystal and developed some cracks in the side and belly >:( at this rate it is going to take a month or two :)
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For a Cherokee style D bow, bend thru the handle, with no stains or poly or oil...just bare wood bow, in as little as 2 hours. IF I had to. In reality, I'd put at least 20 hours into carefully futzing around until I had something I would be proud for someone to carry. But that's just a D bow.
Add in tapered limbs, stiff handle, fadeouts and I am going to be pushing 35 hours. I work slow. And I take breaks to soak my head in a bucket of icewater like it says in the first Bowyers Bible. But at least these days I have to BUY tomato stakes.
SA's bows prolly aren't whipped outa his shop very fast either. I own one and he takes his time on a professional finish. He chases out took marks like they are Joe McCarthy on suspected Commies!
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35 hours? I must be doing something wrong ??? I like the bucket of icewater idea.... :laugh:
Ive been working on one on and off, just rasping away a bit each day. I probably only have an hr or so into it and its halfway tillered 40#@13 inches. I'll put up a pic or two soon.
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I've been keeping more careful track of time,as more people are wanting to buy them from me. Just shooting in a hickory self bow (from a board) From layout to shooting about 5 -1/2 hrs. Heat treated the belly,and bent in a little bit of recurve. Stiff tips(kind of molly style). Flemish string with serving took about another 1/2 hour to 45 mins. It took a little longer to tiller than it should have , as it was a 32" draw @ 45lbs. Longer and lighter than typical,so I wasn't sure how thin to go on my rough out.I'm guessing around the 4 hr mark with a design you are comfortable with if you went right at it ,but that depends on the tools ,design,stave material and so on.
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I think we can all agree that bendy handles are less time consuming to make. But im sure you get more requests for stiff handled bows than bendy lostarrow.
Im also curious how much grain runoff you guys get away with. My board bow had quite a bit of run off. The grain was slightly squiggly. I backed it with 2 layers of linen and a lot of wood glue. Id like to hear from someone a "no good board" with grain runoff can indeed make an unbacked hunting weight shooter.Id really like to hear this because my local lowes has so many boards with grain runoff and never any straight boards. EVER.
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All of my bows have "sculpted" handles , just a matter of preference.I don't like the way a flat board handle feelsin my hand. When I shoot I try tohave the bow just kind of resting in between my thumb and index,and with a small hand, a comfortable grip would make the width too narrow to handle the weight of a hunting weight bow(IMHO). Having said that, most of my handles do bend just enough that you can feel it. I rough out on a band saw,so that saves a great deal of time.By the time I plane or spoke shave the saw marks off, there is usually very little tillering to do.A sharp scraper that is taking off curls ,makes quick work of the final tiller,with very little to sand afterwords.(Big time saving there) I've been doing sculptural type work since I was a child,so the actual shaping of the handle only takes 15-20 mins.with about 5-10 of cleanup with the scraper and sandpaper.Same for the nocks. I like to have a nice fitting handle for shooting it in.As for the boards, they are set aside from lumber I'm working with,so I'm kind of taking the cream of the crop.I buy my lumber from a lumber dealer in the rough.1/3 the price or less.If you tell them what you are making ,they will sometimes even help you look for it just out of curiosity.
Maybe we should continue this on another post so we don't clutter this one.
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I just wanted to check, is it ok if i back my trade bow with hemp or something? i want to push this bow to be more, but i also want it to be safe. let me know what you all think!
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A bow made from a Red Oak board, it may be backed for safety or aesthetics but not with wood or bamboo.
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ok, thanks for that!
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OK, here's my planned bows to pick from for the trade. I will be attempting 6 bows, 3 molles and 3 recurves. I will be using hemp backed, brown paper backed, and silk backed. Each of the 3 designs will be backed with one of each of the 3 backings i mentioned. ( i know the molles might be harder to get working nicely.) I will be picking the best of the 6. What do you all think?
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OK, here's my planned bows to pick from for the trade. I will be attempting 6 bows, 3 molles and 3 recurves. I will be using hemp backed, brown paper backed, and silk backed. Each of the 3 designs will be backed with one of each of the 3 backings i mentioned. ( i know the molles might be harder to get working nicely.) I will be picking the best of the 6. What do you all think?
Make sure to make your molles long (70") and wide or they will chrysal... I can garuntee it.
Jon
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alright, ill make them 70 inches. The recurves i was planning for about 66 inches. I will be making both the recurve and molle limbs wide(as in 2-2.5 in) because i think that's the best way to remove stress unnecessary stress from the bow. I have no doubt that i will have about 10 staves to start with, i would like 6 to turn out, but even if they don't i would be happy with one of each(this is kind of an experiment since I've done a bunch of board bows) And since these are experiment bows that is the reason for the backings. When each of them are done i will shoot 500 arrows though it and then make an assessment of the bows. The best of them will be given to my recipient ;D
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Ok guys this is the bow that is going out. Had two going and had one break during tillering. It is 1.5 inches at the fades to .5 tips. 64 inches TTT 50@ ____ inches. I hope that the guy getting this enjoys it as much as I had making it. It is 0230 hours and I just finished up the leather grip. Its a shoot of the hand design with no arrow rest. Rawhide backing and then stained with four coats of Tru Oil and three of spar urithane.
Any comments or complaints welcome.... Thank you guys for this trade this year. This is my second bow that survived. Tomorrow I will shoot it some more and then send it on its way!!!
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0488.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0491.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0489.jpg)
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0490.jpg)
By the way... I hate doing leather grips... this is my third attempt and it was the best so I left it alone!
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It looks damn fine to me!
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It looks great, I'm to the point of shooting mine in some and rechecking the tiller.
Grady
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ok here it is. its the basic read oak pyramid style bow, 66'' t2t, and 51lbs @ 25''. I have spent a good amount of time shooting this one in and it seems to fire as good as any other bow. im hoping to ship it this week sometime, and i hope the new owner enjoys it. i dont know about anyone else but i sure had fits on this bow trade, boards seem alittle harder for me to turn into a bow lol, i exploded a few along the way.
Roy