Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on June 30, 2012, 11:05:03 am
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...I would like to try this on some hackberry. I was actually thinking of making a jig for it and everything... But I have never did that before. I was wondering how thick it should be, what is too thick, and what is too thin for the middle of a bow? How wide I should make it, etc... I would like about a 60# - 65# bow out of it in the end, or at least that would be the best result. I am particularly undecided about the shape of the handle I would bend the set back into, as if I make the fades come off the handle too soon, it would be hard to bend as I plan the fades to be quite wide.
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The handle stays straight and the the first 4-5" of limb actually get steamed back causing a "set back" handle. Rough the bow out. Get a 12" pot on a low roll and center the handle over it, backside up. Cover it in tin foil and wait about 45 minutes. Place two wood blocks 2-4" tall about 16" apart. Clamp the center of your bow down between them on center, back side up obviously. Wait 10-12 hours and you will have a reflexed bow. Hackberry is like clay when you steam it.
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Be sure to protect the under side of the stave where it overhangs the pot so you don't scorch it from the dry heat around the outside of the pot. Also, have all your clamps, et al ready to clamp before you start. That wood will cool down fast after you remove it from the heat.
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The handle stays straight and the the first 4-5" of limb actually get steamed back causing a "set back" handle. Rough the bow out. Get a 12" pot on a low roll and center the handle over it, backside up. Cover it in tin foil and wait about 45 minutes. Place two wood blocks 2-4" tall about 16" apart. Clamp the center of your bow down between them on center, back side up obviously. Wait 10-12 hours and you will have a reflexed bow. Hackberry is like clay when you steam it.
I want the setback to be in the handle, not the limbs. I agree that hackberry is great for steaming and probably would try any new steaming ventures with hackberry before any other wood. Here are some basic illustrations to more clearly show what I am wanting to do as well as display the jig I am planning to make:
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Setback%20Handle%20Jig/setbackhandlejigdesignone.jpg)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Setback%20Handle%20Jig/setbackhandlejigdesigntwo.jpg)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Setback%20Handle%20Jig/setbackhandlejigdesignthree.jpg)
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Just a suggestion.. I think your jig will work fine but I would flip it upside down from the way you have it drawn. The curved piece that is. Seems to me it would be easier to bend the wood down rather than up.
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Not sure why I think this, but I do not think you should back the bend with aluminum. I would use a thin wooden batten. I would be afraid of staining. Not sure my fears are well founded - just wanted to relay my thoughts.
Russ
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Not sure why I think this, but I do not think you should back the bend with aluminum. I would use a thin wooden batten. I would be afraid of staining. Not sure my fears are well founded - just wanted to relay my thoughts.
Russ
That has happened a couple times when steaming in recurves, but it usually just goes away with a couple swipes or sandpaper. Alot of the time I will forget to turn the metal ruler upside down (I use a metal ruler, ;D) and it will imprint the all the measurements on my recurves. ;D But I have just recently started making true recurves, so I might just be getting lucky.