Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Prarie Bowyer on April 19, 2012, 04:00:44 am

Title: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: Prarie Bowyer on April 19, 2012, 04:00:44 am

Maybee I'll get a plan view drawn up.  I want to make one that is not beveling the blade tip but works just like the card scraper.  This works nice but it clogs.   ::)

Maple  body, Ebony foot and Hickory plate.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee59/scottnlena/IMG_3471.jpg)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee59/scottnlena/IMG_3470.jpg)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee59/scottnlena/IMG_3469.jpg)

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: Bryce on April 19, 2012, 04:22:02 am

Very nice!

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: lesken2011 on April 19, 2012, 09:37:15 am

Nice tool. It's funny when you start working with bow wood it bleeds over to other stuff, too.

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: Hrothgar on April 19, 2012, 10:26:14 am

Pretty ingenious, you got me thinking now...

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: coaster500 on April 19, 2012, 01:28:28 pm

Great idea!!

Just a thought maybe if the leading edge was cut at a slight angle back to front and left to right it might allow the debrise to disperse better and help stop the clogging??? The rear edge would maintain depth???


This is exaggerated but gives the idea

(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/IMG_3470.jpg)

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: Prarie Bowyer on April 19, 2012, 02:12:59 pm

On this one the blade is beveled to 45* then a burr turned.  It is mounted square.  I don't realy care for this for a few reasons.  Firstly the thin edge heats up faster and looses it's edge. 

You could give it a radiused foot and then find the best working angle.  However I wanted a bit of a flat foot to help ride over hollows and smooth things out.  I actualy considered a foot extension.

THe next one will mount the blade at about 55* on a foreward pitch.  Teh escapment slot needs to be tapered and possibly shortened.  Then I will also put a set screw in from teh back to help flex it foreward a bit by recessing a little nut in the bed and and using a small hex screw from the back outside.


if it works well I'll make two more, a radiused body for D profiles and a radiused foot for cleaning up risers.  The extra long handles help get more force and a deeper cut than a card scraper with out the hand work out and cramping thumbs.  Love this for Ipe and maple work.

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: briarjumper12 on April 19, 2012, 03:39:35 pm

It looks just like The Bowyer's Edge I got from Dean Torges.  They work great scraping flat bellies and rounding of the edges.  When I am scraping on a strung bow during tillering I have to go back to card scraper.  The flat sole just don't work on the curved belly of a strung bow. 
Good Job

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: Prarie Bowyer on April 19, 2012, 04:15:35 pm

I don't have the nerve to take cutting tools to a strung bow. 

Like I said.  A curved sole is coming also.

Does the Bowyers Edge clog badly?

Title: Re: Finished my scrape shave.
Post by: bow101 on April 19, 2012, 09:14:27 pm

Ya it's nice to see some of us are into making our own tools. I have made a few myself, and you get great satisfaction from it, when all works out good and the tool does it's intended job as good as or better than a store bought tool.
I have a mechanics bar i built over 30 years ago in high school, it has really come in handy working on the car I'll tell ya, over the years. I have used it for prying and pounding off ball joints and other stuff..!