Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: medicinewheel on August 27, 2007, 02:55:45 pm
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...hi all! - started tillering a hickory-backed hard maple bow today. that's my first pyramid bow at all and i don't really know what the tiller is supposed to look like! so here come a few pictures:
-unbraced
-braced
-12"
-14"
...
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....
-16"
-18"
-20"
the upper limb is on the right; looks like i got a bit to much bend on upper limb near handle. besides that i'd say tiller looks okay; got plenty of bending action in equally in both limbs. the bow will end up at around 45 - 50#.
the maple grain is vertical and very even.
what you guys say?? every comment wellcome (except for 'quit!'...)
frank
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I think the right limb is bending a little farther than the left. Most of that is on the inner 1/3. I would work the outer 2/3 of the right limb. Also work the entire left limb to get it bending the same distance as the right. Justin
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I think I agree with Justin. The final tiller should look like an arch of a circle for a pyramid bow, I believe. Pat
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It looks pretty good frank, but doesn't badger like to tiller them with stiff outer limbs?
Asking because I'm in the same boat with frank, been working on that hickory pappy sent me
and its a pyramid design.
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thanks guys! - justin: the drawing makes sence. pretty much what i thought,too.
round like an arch or stiff at the tips??
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I'd make it round but the last 4" of each limb stiff. Pat
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I do the same as Pat,just about 6/8 inches of the tips pretty stiff.That one looks pretty good to
me,Maybe a little of what justin said and get the left limb doing the same. :)I guess you know but slow and easy now. ;)
Pappy
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Left limb does need a bit more work but I would also get the inner part of the right limb bending a bit more, say the first 6" or so. A little bit more bending in the outer limb is needed as well but not much
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i'm at 24" draw right now. still a bit unsecure but guess it's not too bad?!
well i think the left (lower) limb still needs more bend, right??
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Both limbs need to bend more mid limb on. Jawge
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I agree with the last comment. especially the right limb. otherwise looking good.
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Both limbs need to bend more mid limb on. Jawge
What George said. Justin
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I see the left limb slightly stiff 6" or 8" out from the fade. Very good generally.
I'd have to see the set to comment on whether needs to bend more mid limb out.
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Mid limb on the right limb seems to be bending more. Hold off there but work the outer 1/3 a bit more. The left limb seems to be bending more evenly but the outer 1/3 is stiff. I would put a mark at 6" from each tip and bring the bend almost to it. Pat
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at 26" now... getting better??
(unstrung profile is still straight)
frank
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Looking really good, it's about there. A little positive tiller is good. The first few inches out of the right fade might be just a bit stiff, or could just be my eyes. I think Pyramid bows should bend more in the wider inner limbs and be a bit stiffer midlimb-to tip than tapered limb bows (more bend where there's more wood). But then again I haven't made but two pyramid bows, so take my advice with a grain of salt. :)
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tried to get the bow to bend mor right after the fades;
here she is
45#@29"
2nd picture is right after unbracing after shooting.
frank
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Awsome post and awsome bow. Thanks.
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By George, I think you've got it! ;) Looking good frank. Pat
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a job well done. ;)
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thanks guys!
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i just found the bow developed a FRET but NO CRYSALS!
shot the bow quite a bit and pulled it 50 to 100 X's per day for almost a week now; the bow shoots good, the tiller didn't change a bit and i have half an inch of string follow right after unbracing. this afternoon i found the fret and didn't know what it was. sanded it off and it came back after pulling. shot the bow again, no further problem, fret stays same size!
the fret is almost not visible so i marked it exactly with pencil.
anyone seen this before???
thanks for any replies!!!!!!
frank
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Compression fracture, same as a chrysal, fret, same thing different words. I'm guessing it is right about where the silencer falls on the last pic on the tree, right limb about 8", 10" out from the fade?
I rarely experience compression failures (humid climate) but that's exactly what they look like.
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yes it's bit less then 8" out from the fade but on the lower (pictured left) limb!
well than probably not much i can do about it, right?! :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
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Frank shoot it anyway I have an ash bow with lots of frets, I thought it was a gonner but its still shootin fine even with several thousand shots on it.
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By all means shoot the bow. Liable to not make any difference.
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Frank,
a nice topic and a nice bow.
Shoot the bow - I have the same problem (frets) with a hickory backed maple ( may be the hickory is to strong/thick for the maple), but the bow shoots and has no visible stringfollow.
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Very nice, I've always liked those pyramid bows.
Sean
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guys i was just kidding a little; the bow DOES shoot great and i really don't believe the fret is a mayor problem - looking at the tiller i think the lower (left) limb might still be a little bit too stiff...may that be the reason??
the hickory - maple ratio is 1 to 4, i don't think that's too bad.
yes sean, i like that design, too...it's so pure somehow!
this weekend i'll stain the bow and make it look really beautifull. more pictures later!
frank
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Looks good Frank,sorry about the fret but lots of times it will give no problem.I would drop some supper glue it it and then shoot it. :)
Pappy
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do not sand the fret anymore...it is caused from that area being weaker than the wood on both sides. sanding will only weaken the area more. it looks like a pretty solid bow. i am planning on trying a pyramid bow for a buddy of mine in the near future. thanks for the pictorial!
stan
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thanks everybody! - a minute after unbracing, the bow goes back from 1/2" of follow to 1/2" of reflex, i guess there is no problem with that one fret!
the maple here has these shades in the wood running perpendicular to the grain, don't know what that is named in english; the fret follows exactly on of these shades!
frank
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i posted pics of finished bow at:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,3497.0.html