Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: dragonman on April 10, 2012, 04:09:21 pm
-
Hi everyone, thought you might like to see my latest bow?
It is 60" ntn. mildy reflex/deflexed. Bamboo back-maple core-ipe belly. It pulls 55lbs at 26". The physical weight of this bow is only16oz and there is no hand shock.. whatsoever!!! one of the nicest bows to shoot I've done so far.
I had to boil the ipe belly peices for 1 hour to get some bend in them before the glue up... and ipe really doesnt want to bend!!!, but I managed enough to get the design you see here.. Hope you enjoy the pics.
-
hope you all like looking at bow pics as much as me??? heres some more close up details
-
Very nice job on that, the maple core really helps to reduce mass, I would imagine that bow shoots pretty fast.
-
thats a cracker, love the dark wood/lightwood contrast.well done
-
Very, very nice bow! Is it possible to get chrono results? Bet it's fast
Stefan
-
nice bow, i really like lookin' at all your bows, Bub
-
nice lines and classic looks ;)
-
What they said. LOL!! ;D
Looks really good. Bet it really flings an arrow!
-
Another nice one Dave!! You love that bamboo don't ya. I haven't made anything with boo in a while, that makes me want to do another one. Keep up the great work my friend.
Tattoo Dave
-
A real classy looking bow there Dragonman, love the wood/bamboo contrast in colors. mighty fine finish work as well.
-
8)
-
outstanding Dave....very nice
rich
-
Great job! I have had Ipe break in half with the thickness of that top lam, and the angle of the fade....doesn't take much if Ipe is not tapered just right................Good looking bow.
Brian
-
That's a looker, great job.
-
Awesome! I really really like it. Like others have said I particularly like the contrast between dark and light woods. The handle looks really cool too!
-
That bow is outta this world man! Thanks for sharing!
-
Cool!
-
Really cool looking bow! The handle is very sweet. The finishing work, as well as the nice transition of the ipé into the handle, is clearly done with great care.
I've got a few remarks/questions, though. I don't think you needed to pre-bend that ipé on the belly with steam. Since you're doing a trilam, the glue lines will easily hold most of the shape you force into it while the glue is still wet. As long as your laminations are thin enough, and slightly tapered in width towards the tips, it will hold without pre-bending. Apply glue to the lams, put them together, and force them into the desired shape with a few clamps. Since the lams are thin, they will have little spring back, maybe 20% or so.
I don't really like that bend in the lower fade, actually. It may looks worse in the picture than it actually is, but that fade (maybe eight inches out from the leather handle) appears to be a little hingey. Or is it just me...?
Good job on that thin ipé belly. A thick maple core helps to keep the mass low, as badger points out. However, make sure the ipé does not get too thin in certain areas. I've seen an ipé belly lam get crushed under the back and core, when the ipé got thinner than about 1/16". If the core is not tapered towards the tips, this is most likely to happen just past midlimb, where the limbs get thinnest. You obviously did good, since you don't have chrysals, but this is just a heads up for other people that want to produce a similar trilam with ipé on the belly.
-
thanks very much everyone, I really appreciate all your comments and kind words. Its always good to get some feedback.
Darksoul, I tried to press the ipe into the form but it isnt thin enough to bend like that. I wouldnt boil/steam it for fun!!! I always appreciate criticism too, but I looked and looked for signs of a hinge and I just cant see it. Can anyone else out there see that???
Thanks Rich, that maple core was from the wood you sent me.....good quality maple....
-
Very nice looing bow,its a looker for sure. :)
Pappy
-
That is one sharp looking' bow!!! the contrast between the woods is gorgeous, great job!
-
Really handsome. That is a quick combination of wood, bet it shoots great.
-
boy that sure is pretty.but I question the till on it..seems to only bend out of the handle to me..am I missing something?..did you purposely till it that way....again..very pretty bow....gut
-
I think maybe its because it is short drawn,love to see it all the way back.Beautiful just the same. :)
Pappy
-
That's a pretty one, Dave. It looks like the Tiller is dead on to me.
-
appears to bend more on bottom limb..1/3 from the fade neither limb bend at all...am I seeing it wrong...dang pretty bow..love the ipe lam...gut
-
thanks again guys....Gutpile, the tiller for this type of bow is definately meant to be different than for a straight bow, because of the glued in tension..I did tiller it so that the main working part of the limb is the first third out of the fades, this is the strongest part of the bow. The rest of the bending is then straightning out the reflex, which is different from the bend of a non reflexed bow in that it is harder to bend , as I said because of the glued in tension.
When I tiller a bow, I lay the bow on a large peice of paper , draw around one limb and then reverse the bow to see if the bend is the same in both limbs, in this case both limbs where exactly the same , but I am shooting the bow at a slight angle in the picture.
Provided the materials and design can take it, it is beter to have the first part of the limbs doing all the work, rather than the last half, it makes for a faster bow. All that said, I'm still learning and reflex/deflex bows arent the easiest to get right..
Pappy thanks, I dont have a very long draw though.
-
That's a good idea for tillering Dragonman. I think that if/when I get my new "bowyer room" setup in the basement, I might put one of those whiteboards behind my tiller tree. I could trace the limb at a given draw length to compare limbs, then just wipe it off for the next bow.
Your tillering seems dead on for that type of bow. I forget the exact numbers, but I remember reading in TTBB in the design chapter that only a small percentage of a bows potential energy is stored in the outer limbs, so it makes sense to have the inner limbs doing the majority of the work (if, like you said, the materials can take it with minimal set).
One of these days I gotta try putting some Perry reflex into a bow...
-
What a great looking bow dragonman. As others said I better it really slings and arrow. I think your point about the tillering for the first third is important. These R/D bows are pretty different than a self bow.
-
I have quite a few perry reflex bows and never tilled one that way...might give it a try..mine have an even arch throughout the limbs and still hold the reflex..even have a 55incher that hold more than my 60 incher...same poundage of about 55 @ 27..like I said very pretty bow bro.....gut
-
Cameroo, thats a good idea with the whiteboard, you can get through a lot of paper,..Using this method will always give you exact info where the tiller is out, the most exact and simple way I've found so far.
Gut, the perry reflex is different from the R/D bow,because it has an even reflex throughout the limb, I find these more straightfoward to tiller and the R/D's I personnaly find harder to get right,
thanks Gaur, yes its pretty fast and nice and light in the hand.
-
Whenever I tiller a R/D bow I start at the fades and work towards the curve untill I get it to unfold evenly. Then I usually narrow the outside from the curves toward the tips. This cuts down o the useless tip weight and helps it bend over some more. The tiller looks like more of a straight line from the Fades to the curves.
-
Eddie, I have only made a handfull of these R/D bows, so I'm still learning... what do mean when you say "The tiller looks like more of a straight line from the Fades to the curves."? just trying to visualie what you mean, but not sure?
-
Dave; Just like yours. The curve follows the line of your riser to the start of the curves. If you pull it far enough the curves will continue to fold over lining the entire limb up. When this happens with there is a lot of stored energy in the limbs on release. If you look at your full draw picture, another 2-3" of draw will make the recurves open all the way except for the very end where the string is nocked.
-
thanks, I was hoping you meant that, thats what I was trying to do, thats how I undertand the R/D tiller, but wasnt fully confident I was doing it right... Yeh, I need to increase my draw length, it used to be longer when I shot fibreglass bows!!! maybe I have just got lazy...
-
8)