Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Slackbunny on March 02, 2012, 05:55:19 pm
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Could somebody post a few pictures of what a proper tiller looks like on a reflex/deflex bow? I think I am going to attempt one over spring break, but I'm not quite sure what the tiller is supposed to look like. Pics of r/d bows actually on a tillering tree would be A1.
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BTT
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What I never understand is when someone delfexes the stave before tillering, or glue it up that way on a form. It's just gonna look the same way anyway, but with higher early draw weight if ya just do it normally?
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There was a post not long ago about tillering, most tiller from the fades is what I gathered.....I generally start up a bit from that, but everyone developes their own style. On R/D it is more critical how you tiller I will refer you to this....not the way I personally do it, but it works...... http://poorfolkbows.com/ipe6.htm
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Thanks vinemaple, that was very helpful.
It looks to me like a r/d bow at full draw looks like a normal tiller but with more bend in the inner 1/3 of the limb, and less in the outer 2/3. Is that about right?
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The way I tiller is right where the bend ends tward the fade(not at the fade) I remove wood very slowly til it just starts to flex, then I move gradually tward the fades...slowly..with a few scrapes checking the floor tiller. A mistake a lot of newbies make is to remove a lot from the fade, and hindging the bow. I then move back up the stave to work the curve more tward the tip. It sounds more confusing than it is. Everybody does things different.
Brian
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Toomanyknots, I ont understand what you mean by doing it naturally? I have 2 natural reflex deflex grown staves of mulberry that I will be working soon ( I hope ). I would assume you dont mean naturally grown that way so other than steaming or gluing up, how do you naturally deflex a bow?
As for string tension, I bet you can get very high tension with a r/d design. This will depend of course on draw weight. I believe folk intentionally r/d a bow to allow a longer draw and lower limb stress per that draw length. That can be very usefull with a short stave that is too short to get your normal draw length/ weight otherwise. Correct me please if I am wrong, but that is my understanding of the designs purpose.
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I think you are right Sleek. But I believe I read that the reflex deflex design is also more efficient in storing energy in the limbs, and imparting that energy to the arrow. So theoretically, all other things being equal, a r/d bow should shoot faster than a simple D-bend.
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I would like to know why exactly it does that?
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I think the bowyers bible volume 1 has a short explanation of it. I would find it for you but I lent the book to my father in law and I can't remember what they said about it.
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TBB4 has a section on Perry-reflexing, which is how most people add the r/d to their bows. It's a net performance gain because it forces more of the wood in the bow to actually get involved and doing work in shooting the arrow (moves the tension/compression plane).