Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: straightarrow on February 03, 2012, 11:55:52 pm
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Working on a Osage bow and having trouble with the handle popping off. I've tried tbb3 and gorilla glue epoxy. I managed to get it tillered by putting some wraps. I don't think I'm starving the joint of glue...I just think it's flexing..... anyone have any pointers? I was thinking of maybe ordering some urac... but don't wanna waste money if it won't work.... I hate glue on handles but I didn't want another D bow... greatly appreciate any input
Jon
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I doubt any other glue is going to make a difference . Pics would definitely help in the diagnosis. Josh
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Depending on how much the handle area is bending you might try multi layers of thin wood of graduated length and build up the riser. This type of riser will give a little helping it to hold tight to the bow. Another option is to use leather or cork for the riser. Both of these will flex quite a bit.
As Josh said, pics will help!
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I have had a similar issue with a few board bows. the solution I came up with (and I know this is going to draw heat ::)) was to install 4 screws from the back side of the bow into the handle. I then cut plugs and glued into the countersunk screw holes.
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What about pegging it instead of screwing? Maybe some small pieces of Dowel...
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How long is your bow tip to tip? Sometimes if it is too short it bends more in the handle, stressing these glue joints. Also, you can try sinew-wrapping around the grip area, sinew shrinks as it dries so it would add extra strength.
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You could also build up the handle with glued strips of rawhide. you can file and sand it to any shape you want. It will likely flex enough to handle your bend. then you can wrap it in leather or something.
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What Pat said...
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What Pat said...
2nd that.
Get to making some thin lams to build up the thickness 1/8th inch
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I once glued on a handle piece then took gut hafting material and wrapped the whole handle section with it set in tight bond three glue, it shrinks like rawhide when drying and stiffens the handle even more. My handle is still on and holding fast. If you added dowels also it should be even better. Kenneth
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I wish I had a photo to help you. I think there is one around somewhere but it is not mine. It'll come to me. Anyway, the handle sits on top of the wood and the tapering extends into the stave itself. This insures that the handle area does not bend at all. I've had an issue or 2 with that and I can describe how I pinned it with dowels if you want but I won't take the time unless there is an interest. Jawge
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If the surfaces are properly prepared (free of oil, dust, etc. and mate correctly) the glue bond should be stronger than the wood. Handle popping off would say to me either you are either: 1) starving the joint of glue, 2) not prepping the surfaces (this includes completely removing the glue from failed glue attempts, 3) not letting the glue reach full cure (24 hours at least)
Even regular old titebond one shouldn't fail.
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Turns out the joint was starved.... there was very little glue holding it. I'm really surprised it lasted as long as it did. . It didn't pop until I reached 20". I glued the joint, this time not clamping......... only wrapping with tape...... there is a lot of helpful advice, but I didn't see it till now. I'll keep you all posted if it holds or not. ....BTW the bow is 62" .....I couldn't transform it to a D bow because the fades were cut in therefore making the fade area to weak. Building handle up with leather or other material would have been the fix.... hope this does the trick.....I am going to do a sinew wrap that will be hid by the grip. .... got my fingers crossed because I'm really happy with the way the bow tillered and didn't take any set
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Good to see you got it back on :-)
Anyway - I wouldn't use epoxy, just use hide glue and secure it with sinew (shallow groves in the riser).
The sinew will shrink and tighten it up and I don't think it will ever pop off this way. 8)
Hide glue is very elastic and will follow any movement in the joint - but the joint should only be secured by the sinew to avoid starving it.
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How about some pics!
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Is it a pyramid style bow? Just the other day we were discussing how if you don't extend your fades past where the limb width taper starts that there is a tendency to pop the handle. I experienced this first hand, although at the time I didn't know why. So if you have pyramid limbs then check that out.