Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Slackbunny on December 10, 2011, 07:40:08 pm

Title: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Slackbunny on December 10, 2011, 07:40:08 pm
I have two billets ready to go but they are a little short. If I splice them together it will only make a 48 inch bow which is a little shorter than I want to go. So I was thinking that I could use a centerpiece and splice the limbs to each end of the centerpiece thus extending the overall length of the bow.

Has anyone done this before?

Does anyone see any problems with this?
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: PatM on December 10, 2011, 09:39:40 pm
A Turkish bow is an example of a bow with an extra piece in the center but it gains the benefit of having a lam on either side to support the splice.
 It would be safer if you splice in tip extensions.
 If you splice in a handle you would want to move your fades out the limb and wrap the joints. A backing strip wouldn't hurt either.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Slackbunny on December 11, 2011, 01:25:44 am
Yeah, I was planning on extending the fades out to reinforce the splice, but I hadn't thought of extending the tips. That may be the safer route. But I am feeling adventureous... so who knows. Maybe I'll sleep on it and decide in the morning.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Pat B on December 11, 2011, 01:31:28 am
I agree with Pat.  Your safest option would be to add tips instead of splicing a handle in the middle.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Shaun on December 11, 2011, 02:22:01 am
I have seen one bow with a "V" splice handle with each limb cut in a "V" and a diamond of other wood between them. Fades were out past the splices. The center of the bow has the most lever pressure of any place on the stick, so make it a good splice!
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: crooketarrow on December 11, 2011, 09:16:04 am
  You can do this as long as you noth make it past you handle area. You want your limbs to be all one peice of wood for better proformas.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Justin Snyder on December 11, 2011, 11:24:30 am
I would personally make a riser with bolt on limbs. James Parker and Marc St Louis have both posted good examples.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: randman on December 11, 2011, 10:06:33 pm
I think the "riser with bolt on limbs" model could also work for what we are talking about here. Just join the limbs to the "riser" with a glue joint instead of a bolt or lashing. Although it could be lashed for extra strength. I think a similar subject is covered in TBB 3 or 4 where Tim Baker is discussing the "sudbury" type tiller - long non-bending center section, most bend towards ends of limbs. Sort of 2 halves of a short bow with a stick in between. You get the low stack and accuracy of a longer bow with the performance of a short bow. I think he even mentioned laminating something like that together.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: medicinewheel on December 12, 2011, 04:10:52 am
Have a bamboo backed prune with the handle spliced in; didn't go to close to the fades with the bending on it.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Del the cat on December 12, 2011, 06:15:15 am
Not sure bolt on limbs is very primitive, and surely the bolt on area takes just as much wood as the splice would.
Maybe one splice and one bolt on? ;)
Well it certainly be different ::)
Del
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: kiwijim on December 12, 2011, 06:59:44 am
If you use a "W" splice with modern epoxy you can reduce the splice to 3" in length. If you are backing the bow with sinew you could reduce the W splice length to 2.5". In either case I would wrap the splice with a strong fibre set in glue.

Regards
James
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Eric Krewson on December 12, 2011, 10:56:28 am
I always wonder how many of the nay sayers actually tried a splice extension to see if it would hold up.

I am pretty sure if you put a back on your handle that covers most of the spliced areas you would be good to go. I add new limbs to broken bows every now and then with very short splices. I reinforce the short splice by capping off the spliced area with an extra piece of wood.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/limbreplacement10.jpg)

to this

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/limbreplacement11.jpg)

I suspect, but don't know because I haven't tried it, you could even have a splice extend slightly into your fade if you use Urac and don't have a lot of bending in the fade.

Anyone who saw this bow being glued up would swear it wouldn't last because it has a big glue joint through the fade. It is backed with bamboo which may be what is holding it together.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/frankenbowhandleside.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/frankenbowshapedhandle.jpg)

After 5 or 6 years of hard shooting.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/Frankensteinnowpic.jpg)

I have considered adding a splice extension several times myself. Perhaps I will after hunting season to dispel any doubt about it's effectiveness and durability.
Title: Re: Splicing an extension between two billets
Post by: Justin Snyder on December 12, 2011, 11:50:03 am
Not sure bolt on limbs is very primitive, and surely the bolt on area takes just as much wood as the splice would.
Maybe one splice and one bolt on? ;)
Well it certainly be different ::)
Del
You are right, they would use the same wood, but you could add 10" or more to the overall length of the bow which is what he originally proposed to do.

While I believe it is possible to make this work with a splice in handle, I think the odds are against you unless it is rigid at both splices. If I were to try just gluing it in, I would trap it between a built up riser and a power lam, then I would back that sucker.