Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: GaryR on November 02, 2011, 03:28:01 pm

Title: trade point pointers
Post by: GaryR on November 02, 2011, 03:28:01 pm
Trade point thickness. I read that soup can lids can be used, I've made a couple but they seem too flimsy. I have a discarded mitre saw blade I was thinking of using, but I think its a bit thick. Is their a standard?
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: Pat B on November 02, 2011, 05:54:02 pm
Around .050" more or less. Generally circular saw blades work well.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: ken75 on November 02, 2011, 06:29:55 pm
what pat said , that and old band saw blades ive got a bunch of 050 thats good and some 080 thats tough as nails.
pat did you try the 080 yet ?
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: Pat B on November 02, 2011, 10:00:17 pm
Not yet, Ken. Haven't had time. Winter project!  ;)
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: gstoneberg on November 03, 2011, 01:10:59 am
Gary, I can cut you a strip off the band saw blade I have if you want.  I also have a couple flint points you can have.

George
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: bowtarist on November 03, 2011, 01:50:01 am
what pat said , that and old band saw blades ive got a bunch of 050 thats good and some 080 thats tough as nails.

I use circ. blades for big game points, single beveled and bandsaw blades for small game if I need more than a blunt.  You can get into a circ. blade unbelievably quick w/ a good cold chiesel and a good solid hammering surface.  Cut em big and grind or/and file.  It's up to you on the bevel and the edge, people do it different ways, but they all seem to work well enough if the shot is in the vitals.  ;)  good luck and post pics!
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: GaryR on November 03, 2011, 12:39:17 pm
George, I'll take a piece of bandsaw blade and flints when we get together next, Thanx.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: GaryR on November 03, 2011, 12:55:33 pm
I guess I'm just wasting time with the soup can lids then?
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: Dazv on November 03, 2011, 01:27:38 pm
soup can lids would be far to thin i think i would just bend on contact.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: GaryR on November 03, 2011, 01:31:25 pm
Thanx guys, I'm now educated.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: Prarie Bowyer on November 04, 2011, 02:53:31 am
That metal that is used on band straps on pallets is also good if you can get it wide enough.

Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: crooketarrow on November 06, 2011, 08:31:59 am
  I like  to use old saw mill blades same as I use for knives it's 1/8 inch you can sand them down to a razor edge retemper them There perfect 1/2 inch is the same thickest as 3 hack saw blades and leaves plenty or shafe it there 3/8's or larger. For safting them on. Or you can sand the end down if you have smaller size shafes I like the 3 to 1 ratio but I like mine 2 3/4's. At 1/8" and tempered you never have the tip roll up even on cinder blocks. I've thyed.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: IsaacW on November 07, 2011, 12:53:13 pm
What do you all use to cut them out?

Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: beetlebailey1977 on November 07, 2011, 10:45:40 pm
I have two that I am making now out of a broken High Speed Steel slitting saw blade......they are very hard and .080" thick.  I will post some pics when I get a chance.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: Bill Skinner on November 09, 2011, 01:04:35 am
I have cut saw blades with a side grinder.  Use the cutting blade, the grinding blade makes too wide a cut and you waste a lot of metal and grinding blade.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: gstoneberg on November 09, 2011, 10:48:58 am
I cut mine out with an air cut-off tool.  Have to go slow though or it'll overheat the metal.

George
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: bowtarist on November 09, 2011, 11:47:13 am
As said in my earlier post, I use a cold chisel, ballpeen and a good solid hammering surface to cut both circ. saw and bandsaw blades.  Cut big, grind or file to size.
Title: Re: trade point pointers
Post by: crooketarrow on November 11, 2011, 09:20:32 am
  Saw mill blades are 1095 steel. You can cut them with a hack saw like they are but I aneal them (SOFTEN) Then there's not hardest nor temper left in them then there easer to cut and grind. Then harden and temper after you've cut and shaped them.
 I've made dozzens and dozzens this way. They will get awesomely sharp and hard somewhere around 56 ,57 ROCKWELL hardest. Which is harder to sharpen but stays sharper longer.