Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: k-hat on October 25, 2011, 08:01:49 pm
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Here's the backstory, pics and specs on a later post:
Ok, i've got some hickory veneer i'm using as a backing for a red oak board bow. It's the kind that has the heat-activated adhesive on the back (I know it's not a good backing candidate, but i bought it a while back before i knew better). I was worried about the strength of the adhesive, however i've been wanting to experiment with it. So here's what i'm doing. I've glued the NON-adhesive side to the back of the bow so the adhesive faces out. Then i'm going to put linen on the adhesive side (probly iron it on with low heat, or just heat and press it so i don't cook the back) so the bow is essentially double-backed. I'm not planning on the linen doing much more than just being there to help keep the backing together and cover up the ugly adhesive ;D
What are your thoughts? Should I "size" the linen with titebond first, or just put it straight on as mentioned above. I'm not expecting anything out of this bow (it was an "extra" piece anyway), so i won't be too hurt if it blows up in my face (not emotionally anyway :P) But it would be kind of cool if it workd!
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Your logic sounds good to me. Just one question though, will the water-based Titebond adhere to the paste on the back of the bow? If the paste is sticky enough I would forego the Titebond altogether.
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Yeah, that's what i was wondering. I'm pretty sure ima go with just the adhesive that's already there and run with it. I dyed the linen today a nice chocolate color, should set off nicely with the red oak. If she goes to pieces, she'll at least look pretty doing it :)
On another note, i used the heat gun and a razor to scrape the adhesive off a strip and TB'd it to the back of a red oak limb to test. Adhered nicely, for what it's worth, even though there was a slight glaze of the adhesive still there.
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linens strength comes from the matrix of fiber and glue. If you just heat on the linen on top than its just fabric on the back.
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I agree. The matrix of glue and fiber is where the strength is. Silk on top is decoration and excess physical weight.
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Personally I wouldn't even bother with the linen too many potential problems - take a chance on the hickory!
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Definitely food for thought. The adhesive is actually quite thick, and i'm pretty sure will soak up through the linen to form the fiber-glue matrix necessary. I've got a scrap of linen and the veneer, i'll see if it does before i apply to the bow. If'n it don't, i suppose i'll heat and scrape the adhesive off the bow's back and knock the rest off with sandpaper, otherwise i'll have an adhesive-backed bow, pretty sure that'll be a first ::)
Thanks for the input!
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If you're struggling with finding a good backing, I've used maple boards before that can be found at the home super store. Make sure it's got parallel grain and cut a 1/8th backing. I've backed Ipe bows with it and it works without a hitch, maybe better than hickory from my experience.
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That would be a nice find, i'll have to give the stores another look. I do have a couple of places i can get backing material from, but haven't been able to get away and peruse the piles in a while. this whole thing is more out of an experimental attitude anyway. I just want to see how it performs, probly not gonna rock anybody's world ::) Really just an attempt at making a shootable bow out of stuff i have lying around at this point ;D
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Why not test out the bow with just the hickory backing. If it holds together, put a snakeskin on the glue side. Just a thought.
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Ok, i went after it and got her done, at least to shooting in stage, i'll make her up later. Camping with the boy tonight and we're gonna do some shootn ;D
So here are the specs: Red Oak board bow, 1.5 inches wide, tapers to 3/4" at tips, thickness is 3/4" handle to li'l over 1/2" at fades, to just over 1/4" at tapers. Thickness constant from tapers to tips (mostly). Somewhat of an Native Americans style profile, mostly intentional ;). 48" tip to tip, nocks almost flush with tips (gonna modify to pin nocks later), slightly bendy through the handle, 60#@24". Again on the backing: 1/32" white oak veneer (thought it was hickory, then i re-remembered it was white oak!), with linen glued over that, dyed with choc brown rit.
This is, to date, the heaviest and shortest bow i've ever made, in fact it's my first shorty period. This was all highly experimental, as mentioned, and was really a test of my bowyer skills and see what the limits of red oak are. I planned on some set happening, which came out to 2". Which is a lot for the length i think, but expected since it's narrower than you would normally go with red oak. Again, this was a piece i otherwise would have used for handle risers, but she sat in the corner of the garage begging to be made into a bow!!
Pics:
tillered to 22"
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Shorty9.jpg)
handle profiles:
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Shorty1.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Shorty2.jpg)
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Shorty7.jpg)
Full draw ;D
(http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd374/k-hat/Shortyfull.jpg)
Love to hear your comments!
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Cool. I made a bow just like it when I was first starting.. Unfortunatly mine chrysaled badly, so I hope yours does not.
Jon
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Very impressive! Hope it holds together for you and you get lots of use out of it!
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Looks pretty good.
If you want criticism Id say the outer 1/3 of the tips could have flexed a whisker more, that might share the load and help minimise the set, or it migh givbe you another inch of draw. That's the problem with bows it's hard to know how far you can go without pushing them to destruction (or surprising yourself when they hold up!) ocasionally.
Anyhow the experiment seems to be a success, there's a veneer company near me, matbe I'll have to check 'em out.
Del
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Thank you sirs!! So far no problems with chrysals yet :D
Thanks Del. Don't know if you can see the difference, but between the last tiller pic and the full draw, i did just that, but looking again I still may go back and relax em a little more. That string angle got awfully scary as i got close to 24"!!