Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Lee Lobbestael on October 11, 2011, 06:55:46 pm
-
Hey guys I just got done tillering a 70" 45#@27" Black Locust self bow. However during the tillering process It developed compression fractures in one limb. I had not heat treated the belly. My question is, is my bow doomed or is there anyone out there who has a bow still shooting with no signs of further deterioration?
-
Lee it all depends on the severity of the frets. In most cases though it 's not a good sign.
-
Sorry to hear that. well something similar happened to me with BL. I was making an ELB that was supposed to be 60 @ 29. So one of the limbs started developing some chrysals. Since the bow was 74 I cut it down to 65 and made a cherokee long bow instead. I thought that since the cherokee style bow had a flat belly instead of rounded that would releive some of the stress, after all the chrysals were minute in the ELB. of course taking wood of got rid of them, but despite having a perfect tiller they came back in the same place. sucks, I think I will just make another bow and not an ELB since its more prone to chrysalling. I will however shoot that bow until it breaks, makybe ill learn something.
-
2-3 years ago I made heavy black locust pyramidal bow (125# 29"). Last winter I overdraw it to 31", maybe and little further. It shows a lot of crysals on both limbs. Seems poundage is little less than it was but set is the same, bow still performing good. Anyway, crysals are not good sign, I agree.
-
Just my thoughts, but I think chyrsals are more of a result of this particular wood being less than well seasoned. BL bows I made where the wood was plenty dry enough fretted bad. Last one I made, where the wood was seasoned for a number of years, and lesser quality that the ones that fretted, shows no signs of chyrsals.
So I think this is true with about all types of wood. Dry may be fine for some wood, but IMO, there's no substitute for well seasoned wood........ Art
-
I agree completely,but there are many here that don't. Some say dry is dry and how long it took or how it got dry makes no difference.To each there own but I like slow seasoned wood .Get out the popcorn ;) ;D ;D ;D
Pappy
-
The chrysals run deeper than we think. I don't like to shoot chrysalled bows but they can last a bit depending on how bad they are as Pat said. If the chrysals are localized it is in a spot that is bending too much. If they are spread out over the limb it is a design issue...to narrow or too short. We do tend to blame the BL wood though LOL. :) Jawge
-
If localized I do have a "fix" but I have to go now. Later. Jawge
-
All these reasons just makes me wanna try bl lesss and less...
-
I know that I don't have all the knowledge but, I do think BL is a very good bow wood !
It is nice looking wood and makes an excellent bow !
Don't give up on it that easily !
Sure wish I was smart enough to get pics on here so I could show you !
Guy
-
If we are honest, too many, we won't blame BL but ourselves for bad tillering. I've made lots of BL bows. May be had a few chrysal. 2 out of 24-50 or more isn't bad.Understandable since it was my learning wood. I've made 7 ash bows. 5 chrysalled. I don't blame the ash. I blame me. The easiest chrysal fix I've done is to glue on some rawhide over them but only d that f they are localized. Use osage you say, LOL. Osage is not immune from chrysals particularly if one likes to use the pretty sapwood which is bandied about internet forums for osage and BL in particular. I've had an osage sucker chrysal. Heck of a bow though. I gave it away but it is still around. Popcorn anyone?:) Jawge