Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: frankg on August 12, 2011, 04:43:56 pm
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While down at river I think I found a couple stands of river cane with some stinging nettles guarding it also ! I clipped some and peeled the leaves off. It had some sticky syrup on and had lots of aphids covering them . Should they be cut close to length and bundled or bundled as is till dry? There were quite a few dryed ones still standing are they usable if not fractured?
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/ModocWrangler/Bows/RiverCane001.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/ModocWrangler/Bows/RiverCane002.jpg)
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It looks as though you cut immature cane my friend. Second year growth, will not have the leaves on it or will be starting to fall off. This would be the more satiable cane for arrows. What it appears that you cut is first year growth and will be very very weak in spine. JMO And no you really don't want to cut dead cane either.
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Hmmmmm !!!!!! Good thing I just got a handfull then ! :D I know where they are now tho'. So the 'ripe' ones have very few leaves on them ? Is this at bottem section of them ? I need to find a pic of them just as harvested :laugh:
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Go here and look at the picture and you will see that all but a very small amount of the sheath is on the cane. This is the second year growth. If it is the first year, you sheath will be wrapped around the cane tight.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,9947.0.html
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frankg. Hopefully PatB will be chiming in he know a lot about the cane. This JMO. I agree with stringstretcher. It looks like 1st year growth. Also if I'm not mistaken, the cane shouldn't be harvested till later in the year. You couldn't pay me enough to get in the cane patches around here now. Just to good of a place for Mr. No Shoulders to be lurking :o Not sure but it also looks like switch cane. But like I said, Pat can tell you a lot more ;)
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hillbilly, I can tell you I know nothing about it ;D I just happened on it nosing around the river here on ranch. Far as I know there isnt any nasty critters on this side of river .Other side tho' , they be rattlers !
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I don't think that is cane at all but probably Phragmites. Where do you live, Frank?
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Im Klamath Falls Ore. , southern part of Ore. Pat.
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That looks like phragmites to me as well. I just cut a few in Salt Lake City today, just to see how far along it is in maturity. Not ready. In the northern part of the country there is no second year of growth on the culm of phragmites. Winter kills it and it starts anew in the spring. If you wait until just before the first frost should arrive or within a week after the first frost to cut, you can make some decent arrows from that. Providing you're not shooting a 100# war bow that is. My arrows are all phragmites and hold up well with my 60# longbow. Oh BTW, don't bundle them to dry. Just lay them out flat somewhere out of the way where they can air out but not get stepped on or broke. Just my 2 cents.
Josh
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I think we have Phragmites here in MI also and they do the winter kill/die off every year too. Can they reach a sufficient diameter in the 1 year growth? Does anyone have pics of the tops of the Phrag...ours are wispy type tassels, just trying to see if we are talking about the same plant. Thanks~
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I often think about this material. What is it? Is it more bamboo and as tough as bamboo or is it more what we have in Europe called reed, what is brittle and used foor roofs?
Thanks for reply!
Regards Uwe
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Phragmites is more of a perrenial grass so it will die back to the crown each year. I have never used it for arrows but I know Jackcrafty has and might even have a "How To" in the How To section. I believe some of the Plains Native Americans used it for arrows.
I think I'd listen to Gun Doc because he uses it for arrows.
I don't think that there are any native canes(bamboos) in the NW. There are probably many varieties of bamboo there that were brought in from Asia that will make good arrows.
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That looks like phragmites to me as well. I just cut a few in Salt Lake City today, just to see how far along it is in maturity. Not ready. In the northern part of the country there is no second year of growth on the culm of phragmites. Winter kills it and it starts anew in the spring. If you wait until just before the first frost should arrive or within a week after the first frost to cut, you can make some decent arrows from that. Providing you're not shooting a 100# war bow that is. My arrows are all phragmites and hold up well with my 60# longbow. Oh BTW, don't bundle them to dry. Just lay them out flat somewhere out of the way where they can air out but not get stepped on or broke. Just my 2 cents.
Josh
Ill visit them at deer season 1st of Oct. , thats when we usually get some hard frosts .
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The trick to getting good phragmites, is to look for the tallest ones with the base of the culm being 5/16 to 3/8". In other words the tallest stems with the narrower base at the ground than the rest of the plants. The reason for this is, the narrower stem diameter at the base forces the plant to form thicker walls to support it self. If that makes sense. It also means a more consistent diameter arrow shaft for the length of your shaft. Foreshafts are pretty much a must and a hardwood or bamboo insert at the nock end will ensure the longevity of the arrow and your bow. (see hillbilly61's 'could have been worse') ;) Phragmites is nowhere near as tough as rivercane, but it will still outperform cedar if properly worked. IMHO. If you have questions(and you will) don't hesitate to ask.
Josh
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Thanks for info ! Oh , Ill have lots of questions ;D
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Hey Gun Doc...if the Phrags are cut when green about how long do they take to dry out? I located a huge patch here last night and cut about 1/2 dozen just to see what they were like and how thick the shaft walls were. they look fairly promising. I'd really like to have some Phrag arrows to hunt with on our Deer Opener on Oct 1st but I have a feeling that even if I cut them green today they might not be dry in time to hunt with?
What did you use for material to foreshaft them? Natural shoots or dowels?
Thanks guys!
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It might be to early to cut it right now. You will know in a couple days if it is mature enough, because it will start to shrivel longitudinally. If it still has smooth sides after a week you should be alright. That being said, I'm afraid it takes several months to cure properly and harden. I have made arrows in as little as 3 months successfully, but any quicker and they don't seem to hold up. As far as foreshafts goes, it depends on how much FOC you want. I prefer dogwood and maple (diffuse porous and dense) but have had good luck with ash, osage and even black walnut. I have used ramin wood dowels when in a hurry, but they do not hold up well at all. When fitting the foreshaft to the cane, make sure you have good shoulder contact and that it is also contacting the node inside. Sinew wrap the shoulder and the node to prevent splitting. Same thing on the nock end make sure your nock insert is touching the node inside. I like to have the nock end node, right where the back of the fletching will be tied on with sinew. That way the sinew is reinforcing the nock as well as holding the feather on ;). If I have confused you on the foreshaft fitting, look at my 'quiver friendly atlatl dart post' I use the same method there, just bigger. My laptops down so it might be a while before I'm back on, I hope this gets you started anyway.
Josh
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Being a dummy to any other arrow shafts other than aluminum or POC .................which end of canes are tip and/or nock in relation to diameter ? 8)
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Big end is the point end, small end is the nock end. Weight forward arrows fly better.
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Thanks Pat ! I didnt know if the point was counted on to balance it out or what :o Now Im smarter that when I woke up this morn ;D ;D ;D
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Thanks Doc. The 6 or 8 I cut last week have dried a fair amount already...after no days in the car with some hot temps they have lost 13 grams of weight/moisture. They haven't wrinkled like you mentioned to look for so I may just cut more since we had 48 degrees here last night. Good tip on the sinew wrap at the nock and tail end of the fletching...thanks!
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You should be good to go then. Glad to help.
Josh