Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: triggerfinger on June 26, 2011, 01:37:04 am
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what dictates the design of a bow. Some seem to be very thin limbed and some (druids last offering) seem very thick and chunky. why would one be preferred over the other in a given circumstance
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Well some woods are better for a specific design, e.g. Using an AFB design will let you use different types of woods because the stress is spread out in the limbs.
This is coming from an ameteur so feel free to correct me.
YB
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type of wood, style you are wanting to make, what type of use you have inteneded for the bow,how many bows you have made(experience level) and where you live(availibility of materials) and this is just scratching the surface, dont let this be discouraging but informative. pyramid design is an all around efficient design, and it just grows from there. i like the holmegaard and mollgabet designs but i make alot of d bows, flat bows and one more factor, stave or board. hope this helps.enjoy the world of primitive archery.
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With osage the stave often dictates the design. Knots, flaws splits, deflex or reflex, and other wood nuances can influence what you can and can't do. Some other woods are more predictable, and boards allow much more latitude.
George
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im gonna change my signature to say no acronyms please ;D. i dont know what afb is
anyhow where would I, an absolute beginner find the information necessary to determine my bow layout. ive got a stave traded for, so im trying to figure this stuff out
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If you can show us pics of the stave I'm positive the suggestions for an appropriate design will soon follow. :)
Jon W.
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Ah, go here first: http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/ Jawge's site is filled with good advice for new bowyers.
If you find you live close to one of the folks on this great site PM them and see if you can get some instruction. If you're in Dallas I'd be happy to help you.
Pick up the Bowyer's Bibles and read a lot.
George
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With all stave bows the wood dictates the design and I let each piece tell me what it wants to be.
You have to consider the properties of the wood you are using like it's tension strength (and weakness), it's compression strength(and weakness), knots, twists, curves, and humps.
When you get your stave and it is ready to draw out the bow, study the stave for a few minutes. Visualize the bow inside then remove all the unnecessary wood to reveal your bow! ::)
fyi...AFB is an American Flat Bow as was common in the 1930's, 40s and 50's and is still an effective design today.
ps. What JonW said!!! ;)
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ditto on jawges site very helpful indeed.
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gstoneberg, thats a very generous offer and after following your posts, i really really wish i could come learn from you. Until the airforce moved us to Biloxi i lived in Oklahoma City. If i still lived that close id be wearing out horses to get there. I want to get the tbb series but im currently doing a $0 thing, so unless ones comes up for trade im hosed! I think ive read jawges site beack to front. And i think ive read most of this site and paleoplanet, still missing some details....maybe im just daft.
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imstuck in a hotel, guess i can read jawge's site again
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RULE #1.
Never make a bow wider than the wood you have.
Del
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Del the King.... :)
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Different woods takes stress a little differently depects what it can be used for.
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RULE #1.
Never make a bow wider than the wood you have.
Del
you know, you cant bs a bser, especially with such obvious bad advice ;D