Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Lee Slikkers on June 22, 2011, 06:40:22 pm
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Hey folks, been doing a fair amount of reading and looking around as I get ready to layout another Osage bow. This stave is very nice, hardly any twist, just a couple knots for character, etc. It has plenty of width and enough length to get a 68"-maybe 70" bow out of...
So, I was wondering what layout, width, length, dimensions, etc have proven to be your favorites on an Osage? Looking for a long-ish shooter in the 50#-60# range for this fall on white-tails. Any pics, details or opinions would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
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About 65-66" is about as long as I would make an Osage bow Lee. Wood's physical weight and flexibility kinda gets in the way for Osage bows longer than that..........Art
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Inch and three-eighths at the fadeouts is about the narrowest I'd go for an osage flatbow, and then double your draw length plus 10 percent for your nock to nock length. If you add a bit more length it will shoot a little easier.
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Thanks JW, doesn't need to be super narrow...my latest Osage was a 56" ntn 56# 2 28" and only about 1" at the fades...
I'd like one a bit wider and longer but didn't know if anyone had found a "sweet spot" for a 28" draw length in Osage. I've been more or less just cutting and shaping as I go and figured maybe on this one I'd give it a bit more of a "proper" try.
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Lee,
I'm with Art. Most osage bows I make are between 60" and 66" long. Most are between 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" at the fades. If I'm building a bow for me it's gonna be around 60" long with gently flipped tips. To me that is the best compromise between shootability and ease of use hunting. Going out to 64-66" gives a little smoother draw and I have made then as short as 51", but for me I like about 60".
George
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Generally rule, longer you go the narrower the limbs. So an 1 1/4" starting at fades works fine for longer Osage bows. But you still need enough limb width at mid-limb to tips for lateral stability. I like to go past the fades about 6" before tapering to the tips to help with the lateral stability problem. Longer fades also to force the greater bend outward. And flip the tips from mid-limb out to prevent limb deformation. A FF string "really" helps with these longer Osage bows.
Here's a 66"er I made for my nephew who's doing a tour in Afghanistan at present. He's tall and lanky, but I expect it'll fit him.........Art
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Side profile
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Artcher's point is valid, for sure. You can go narrower if you add length.
Artcher, that is a fine example of what osage can do for a guy, lovely curves, sweet profile. A fine weapon for a warrior. I pray he comes back and lives long enough to wear it out.
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7/8ths of a inch at the handle, bend through the handle, about 52-56 inches nock to nock. I have a 51 inch 3/4 wide at the handle in the works now. Im kinda exicited to see how it is gonna come out.
Thanks
Boswell
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It's interesting, I go narrower on my shortest bows too. You just don't need much osage when the bow is under 56" long.
George
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im pqartial to mollegabet/holmegaard, and d bows, my molle is 57 tip to tip .
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Thanks for the pics Art...that is a gorgeous bow and should serve your nephew very well. What do you feel FF adds to the mix with Osage?
Thanks for the other additional input folks...don't think I want the next one to be overly short. my recent 56" (at 28" draw) has significantly more finger pinch than I am used to and than I enjoy. After reading some of the thoughts I think something in the 64"-66" length will be part of my plan. Still not sure on the width yet...
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Thank you for your thoughts and concerns JW!
Longer the bow the longer it's string Lee. That equals to more stretch and string weight. Not an overly concern with long limbs that are tightened up at mid-limb, but, if tillered to bend there, then extra hand shock and wrist slap can be a problem........Art
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ahh, makes perfect sense Art....thanks for the added explanation.
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Lee, I've only made one osage bow (so take this with a grain of salt), but it was 1 3/8" wide out to 12 inches from the fades, then the last 16 inches tapered to 1/2". Seems to shoot well, but I noticed that despite being very easy on it while tillering, I got about 1 1/4" of set. I also noticed that the vast majority of the set took hold on the tapered part of the limb. But 1 3/8 seems like more than enough meat for the parallel part of the limb. The bow was nearly 67" ntn, and 54 lbs at 28"
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Thanks Cameroo....was the stave completely dry & cured? I found with one of my earlier bows (out of osage that was cut this past Feb) that I got a bit more set than I figured was normal but I knew the risk (can't stop making bows!!!) LOL
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It was actually from a board that I received from George. It was completely dried. I failed to mention that I backed it with hickory. I wouldn't think that would over power the compression strength of osage, must have just been from crappy tillering. I'm just putting the handle wrap on it tonight, might get some pics up later :)
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Well dang Cam, that's the first osage board I've traded. ??? How bout I send you a stave to play with? I feel bad about that. :'(
George
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Don't feel bad George, I got two for the price of one :) Boards are my comfort zone right now anyway, but I've got some elm and ash seasoning, so I'll be working some staves in the near future!
I'll stop hijacking your thread now Lee >:D
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Hopefully I don't come across as hijacking this thread but this kinda got me thinking about a question that goes with the topic .......... if you have a pretty snakey osage stave do you guys normally go wider or narrower because of the snakiness? Or do you pretty much go with your above mentioned dimensions? ...... Keith
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Way sweet. Sexy tips. Bet it shoots swell. Francis