Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Badger on June 12, 2007, 03:24:48 pm
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Figured I better start posting some bows now and then. This particular bow is 64" nock to nock, 50#@28", maple backed maple. My mass formula caled for 20.5oz, this bow weighs 20.5 oz, ( just a coincidence LOL)
As in other posts this bow was aslo somwhat of an experiment. I bought several maple boards and decided to back them with different things, red oak, hickory, bamboo amd maple. The maple backed maple came out the best with the red oak maple being very similar. The boo and hickory both overpowered the maple to some extent. You will notice it is somewhat stiff out of the fades and somewhat stiff in the tips, this is how I do them. If the bow would have shown signs of set I would have tillered a little more into the fades but it wasn't neccessary. Bow is 2" wide with a semi pyramid limb shape, I cut the limb paralell for 1/2 the bow limb and durring the tillering process tiller the sides as it will alllow. Shoots a 10 grain arrow at 172 fps and 28". and has 1/2" string follow from an original 3/4" reflex. I like the maple backed maple combination as well as the red oak backed maple combo. Steve
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Very nice bow, Steve. Knowing the results of your experimentation with different belly and backing woods will be a big help to lots of us. Pat
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ohhhhh, ahhhhhhh :) this is a very interesting bow Steve.
1) How good was the grain orientation on your backing and board? Any runoffs at all? I'm asking to see if "average" boards can used or if you need to be really selective in your grain selection.
2) Why not a true pyramid shape? What do you feel the advantage is of using a modified pyramid profile?
3) I see virtually no or little string follow. Did you glue up the blank straight or with some reflex?
4) How thick is your backing? Did you taper your backing at all like many do with bamboo?
5) Can I have one? :)
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Marvin, On maple I try to avoid any run offs in the backing, for the belly wood i try to select flat sawn wood just as a matter of choice, backs are 1/8'. The reason i saw modified pyramid is that when I cut the bow out, I use a taper from mid limb to tip, as I tiller and monitor the mass and set the bow is taking using side tillering to control the mass and move the bend around where I want it. The almost pyramid design just seems to happen by itself. The bow has no string follow when rested when rested but when first unstrung after shooting shows just a tad. Started with about 3/4" reflex. Steve
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Glad you posted the bow badger, to my inexperienced eye this appears to have a really nice tiller.
The bow itself is quite beautiful very clean looking.
I can't tell in the pic do you use arrow rests? And would you give some dimensions for the handle/fade area?
And lastly I'm with marvin on the can I have one thingy ;)
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Dana, I asked first :)
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Seems like a lot of work to make a maple selfbow! The tree had already put a flawless backing on a plainsawn belly.
Why do you favor plainsawn belly slats? I think quartersawn are slightly stronger, just harder find one with no flaws.
Very nice bow. I was just badmouthing maple over on another site. For no good reason, it seems.
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really nice tiller! - is that a flat bellied bow??
- if i'd us a very thin slad of hickory, maybe tapered, too-would that still overpower the bellywood??
i would love to see a riser detail!
frank
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Not bad for a rookie ;D
What wood did you use on the handle and what glue did you use?
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good lookin bow. I like it. I personally love maple. I also am a big fan of Pyramid bows.
Good Job Badger
Ron
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That's really nice Steve. Good Rock Maple makes an excellent backed bow when backed with Ash or Elm, I think Elm may be superior as a backing
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Wow, now that's inspiring! Great clean simple lines - it's a killer:o
I tried backing a maple bow with hickory and chrysalled it! It now lives as a hickory backed boofloo bow, soon to be posted...
yes, I'd love to see some more detail of the riser too...I gotta try that again!!! ::)
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Sweet looking bow Steve. I see your tree lets them sit uneven until you put some stress on them. Mine does the same thing and it drives me crazy. :P Justin
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Thanks guys, I think very thin hickory would be ok, I really have to go along with Mark on the elm backing for maple, I just don't have good access to elm. Steve
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Very nice bow Steve,I like the contras on the handle,never done many backed bows but that
look sweet. :)
Pappy
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Very nice, Badger. I bet she's a smooth drawer. Jawge
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Very nice, a simple and excellent design!
...and a fine work!
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Elm as a backing is a good idea. Its got more cross-grain holding it together, than even hickory. Hickory might just be more plentiful after all the Dutch elm disease.
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Good to see you posting your bows Steve, because we know you make a lot of them. That is sweet!
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I got chewed out by the boss, he says we have to start posting more bows! ;D
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Great addition to the Backed Bows, Badger. Any idea what kind of maple it is ??
Also let me know if you don't want it bookmarked for backed BOM >:(
Otherwise, it is.
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Very nice bow Steve. I like the design.
Oh, BTW, HD is selling American Elm trees now. A guy up the road from me is growing them for HD....You can "Grow your own" now ;D
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Don, the belly wood is hard maple I buy locally and the backing is rock maple from New Hampshire I believe. I found a wood cutter who took the time to learn how to cut backings right and he does both maple and hickory for me. Steve
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Nice bow Steve. You must have sawers all of the country feeding your h.... uh hobby. ;-)
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Really nice Steve. I did one like that a few years ago and broke it while stringing, stupidly outside on an icy cold day when it was just to full draw. Fot slipped.
I have some red oak vert grained strips 30" long I've been wondering what I can go that short with. Maple or Locust maybe.
Dve
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Clean man, nice n clean.
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would like closeups of limb tips/string nocks and handle/riser, please.