Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: 65x55 swedis on May 06, 2011, 03:53:13 am
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i am thinking of making a hickory bow about 4' ntn and 65# i was curious if that might be to much for the wood to handle and maybe need to change woods or back it with bamboo to support it. what do you guys think
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What draw length? Hickory is pretty tough. :)
Pappy
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If you got good hickory you won't have to worry about breakage. Depending on you're average humidity string follow culd be the problem. Ronnie
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Heat treat it before tillering, give it a real good toast and let it sit for a couple days, then go!
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draw lenth about 25 to 27 inches so just plain hickory would would no need to back it?
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Make sure to start with really wide limbs. No backing needed but you may need to recurve the tips a little.
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I've made several "board" bows from hickory. If you've got a piece with fairly straight grain, it is remarkably tough. I've made bows with pretty severe grain violations on the back that have held really nicely. With as short as you are looking to go, I'd get good straight grain, though. I'd stick with a shortened draw length. 27" sounds like an awful lot for a 48" bow, unbacked, even if it is hickory. It'll help to minimize the set, also. I bet 25 could go if you tiller it great!
Good luck.
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I agree about recurving the tips some, the string angle will be quite severe. Gotta keep the string on her!
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ok then what if i lenghten the bow. how much would i need to lenghten it?
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If its goin to bend through the handle I'd make it around 58". Stiff-handle around 62-68"
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at 48" it should be able to take the stress if wide enough and tillered well.
TBB p.61 has the 48" hickory drawing 57lb @ 28" and says it took little set. Limbs where 2" wide and 1/4" thick.
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A bow drawn more than half its length is in immediate or eventual jeopardy. I would not draw it more than 22" if it bends in the handle and is backed but then again I've bounced a few staves off my head in 20+ years of making bows so I'm cautious. Jawge
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ok then what if i lenghten the bow. how much would i need to lenghten it?
For a D bow twice the draw length is a good start, but a little more never hurt. If you're going for 65#, start around 62", and then you can easily cut the bow down later for more draw weight. Plus, you wouldn't have to recurve it, which would add more time and trouble to the whole process (IMO).
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the reason it has to be short is it is for a tree stand so i am trying to stay as small as possible
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As long as you are aware of the surroundings while in your treestand and prune accordingly you don't have to go that short. I've hunted out of a treestand with a 68" bow with no difficulties.
An old archery addage..."a bow fully drawn is 9/10th broken"!
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i agree with pat b i hunt from a treestand and my hunting bow is a 72" tip 2 tip maple bow. so becarefull on that one i tried a shorty once but just my arms are a little too long for tehm so i keep them long and safe my hickory molly shoots good it is 70+" but real close to 60# was trying for 65# so i missed it but hey it will still do the job i think and it is hichory i saw a thread showing a lot of short bows by just about everyone on here and they all had a slightly less of a draw length so emember your anchor point and adjust for the shorter draw length and keep flinging
john
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kweh kweh omateru, (greetings friends) I greet you in my Wyandot language.
I'm new here and have got the bug.
Finished up my first hickory bow 40# (64 inch) from staves cut from bitternut(or pignut)hickory in December.
it was a great experience and having 120 acres here in NE Oklahoma,now i'm eying all the hackberry,Mulberry,Coffee Trees,Black Locust,
dogwood, and red,blackjack,white,and post oaks and I'll be listening in to you pros.
I found a great stand of arrowwood (this spring)I'll get to them this winter
and harvested some spice bush shoots this winter and seem to be a good possible arrowshaft...after sanding and scraping
they slick up nice pulled through a shaftsized hole drilled in bois d'arc.
Someone suggested heat treating the hickory stave and i think i'll try that next time.
it does follow the string when unstrung.
got a WORRY though with my new bow, though it tillered purt-near "perfect"
during target practice, right at a pinhole knot in mid-limb a tiny crack appeared(can feel the difference in the pull weight)
Is there ANYTHING to do to save it from opening further besides sinew backing?...any glue to pack in the crack while its arced maybe?,to save it?
trying to send pics but i'm no tech wizard.
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Welcome to PA
start a post of your own with close up pics you will get the advice you need