Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Flintknapping => Topic started by: Ncsnipe on April 04, 2011, 05:55:10 pm
-
What kind of glue works best for gluing copper caps to wooden handles? I've tried epoxy but it seems to break loose with hard use. Any suggestions?
-
I havent built very many of them but I use the tightbond slow drying epoxy and rough up the inside of the copper and lead ans also rough up the wood handle where it goes into the copper, also make sure you dont fill the copper cap to full with lead or you wont get enough glue surface. rough up, glue and clamp let sit as long as the epoxy recomends. Hope that helps
Josh
-
I have also used the same two part epoxy that I used for reshafting golf clubs. Only probllem with glueing them on is that you pretty much cannot change the cap out when it wears out. I have a couple really nice oak botter handles that I will want to reuse. For those, I just made it so the cap is a very tight fit and I put a couple wraps of electrical tape around base of the cap. It has been working and I haven't had a cap come off.
-
Steven When I replace the copper cap I just heat up the cap good and clamp the handle in the vice and use a flat head screw driver to tap the cap off then I dont clean up the wood just re lead and rough up and reglue but I have only had to change one cap and it was a 1" I doubt it will be as easy with my 2"er ;D
-
I have had good results with good ole JB weld, just heated it up to remove, watch the fumes when heating i don,t think there to good for ya ??? ??? ???
-
JB Weld is good I used it when first started building copper boppers. ACE Hardware carries a 2 part past bond called PC 7 It is the best I've used so far. I get more life out of the bond than I do with other products. It is what I use & I keep it in my tool bag.
-
i used jb weld. I made 3 so that if one needs repair I set it aside then pick up the other one and continue working . I make repairs when I want this way.
-
Here's a tip to help keep your bopper together. Right after the lead in the copper bopper has turned solid, take a 1/4" bolt, put the end in the middle of the lead and smack it with a hammer, put a dent about 1/16" to 1/8" deep in the lead. Lead contractes when it cools and will be loose in the copper, after you beat on it a while, the copper can slip. The dent expands the lead so it will be tight in the copper. Also, a lot of glues do not adhere well to copper but the do stick to lead so this makes a more solid bopper. Bill
-
Bill that is a great idea wish I had know that before I made my three. I will definitely try that next time.
-
I have been using the 5 minute epoxy and had a couple break lose. Guessing the epoxy got to hard. Saw one made that looked like it had Tight Bond car body epoxy. Thought that would be good stuff to use.
Now after getting the cap on, I drilled a small hole through the side and tapped a nail in. Ground the nail flush with the side then taped it a couple times with a punch to expand and tighten the ends. That has kept the cap from moving and becoming lose. I have not changed one yet, but I will tap the nail out and repeat the process. Just a way that works for me.
-
I don't use lead to often I like to match the weight to the rock so to speak. Different lenth hadles different weight. If I do add lead I drill a hole in the center and poured leadin and filled the hole.
I just get different size caps at lowes use BL WELD on hickory handles when they where out just cut it off and but on another one.
-
Lowes sells Loctice in two parts one is in a red bottle and the other is in a blue. It holes for me. Just a thought. hope it work for you
-
I used JB Weld and then drove a copper roofing nail in the tip of it.
-
I used that Loctite stuff that is like putty - fold the two parts together and voila. It's holding on great.
-
I would use some copper square nails to pin the "ferule" to the wood. just drill a couple holes and tap tap youre done!