Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: iowabow on December 14, 2010, 07:50:47 pm
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This bow is a 69 inch 50# @25.5in and made from Iowa Osage from the backyard. I have fired the bow 75 times. It is the 6th bow I have attempted. suggestions for uploads. (http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l567/iowabow/bow.jpg)thank you for the suggestion to go to photobucket.
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l567/iowabow/bow1.jpg)
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Try using a photo hosting site like Photobucket.com It's free. just download the pics you want then copy and paste.
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We really need to see full draw before we can help. Jawge
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Here are a few more pictures of the back and the bow drawn to 25 inches(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l567/iowabow/bow3.jpg)
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l567/iowabow/bow4.jpg)
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Don't know if you wanted advice or was just showing us your work,but if it was me I would get
it bending the first 3 or 4 inches out of the fads and the handle [non bending area] look mighty long,at least for my taste. No criticizing your work,I wished my 6th bow had of looked that good. :)
Pappy
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any advice would be great! ok i am new so if it bends closer to the handle it will allow bow to....
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Even with a stiff handled bow, you can get the fades working a bit more.
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Now at this point do i keep
1. The bow as is
2 Shorten and thin fades
3. Thin and lighten poundage but keep lenght the same
4. trade for ADB's bow because that looks real good!
5. other
kinda reminds me of a multiple choice question
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I would do as Pappy sugested. Get those fades working a little. You can always shorten your bow up a little to get the draw weight back. 69" long is way over doing it for 26" draw on that style of bow anyways.
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The fade area is the transition between the working limb and non working handle so the bend of the limbs should work into the fades and not stop outside the fades.
Being that you are new the most important thing is to learn how to tiller and how to see corect tiller. I think you have those issues worked out pretty well on the longer bow. Now it is time to gradually work on shorter and shorter bows to get to where you get the most out of the stave for your draw length. I pull 26" too and I like bows between 60" up to about 66" with 62" to 64" being ideal for me. These are tip to tip(t/t) mreasurements I'm talking about. You can subtract about 2" from the overall length for a nock to nock(n/n) measurement.
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ok thanks so much for the input good group to be a part of. I have about 20 staves to work on that i cut this summer. i just found this web site last week wow nice find. i started making bows in feb and most cracked because i over drew them way to early. I just did not have the background to do it right. Also all the winter staves had paper thin growth rings that made it real hard to chase. I wish i had found this site in march.
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I really like thin ringed osage for bows. I usually add a rawhide backing for protection when I use it.
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i chronographed the bow at 134fps at a bow shop. I have a few days offs so i am going to rework the bow as suggested above any thoughts on what the new fps could be?
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good job there on the bow. simple & nice