Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: rileyconcrete on August 02, 2010, 07:09:20 pm
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I have never flipped the tips of a bow. i have a roughed out hickory stave that I am gonna try it on. I was just looking for some tips on doing so. do I steam it? Or dry heat? should it be in final tiller stage before I start? What is a good radius to flip the tips, I dont want to get to carried away.
Any info I would appreciate.
Thanks
Tell
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I think with hickory you want to boil or steam. If the wood is seasoned seal the tips with shellac before steaming or boiling to prevent moisture from entering the wood. The shellac can be easily removed later. A quart paint can is a good radius to use as a pattern. How much recurve you want is up to you. The last 4" to 5" of each tip would be a good start. I like to bend the recurves after floor tiller stage but before tillering.
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Steam, steam, steam! I lost count of how many good bows I wrecked trying to recurve the tips with dry heat. (I can envision belly fibers tearing apart even now.) :( Dry heat is great for adding gentle reflex, general stave straightnening, and alignment. It's quick and there's no waiting around a couple of weeks for the wood to dry. Severe bends, though, need steam. Yeah it takes longer and you go mad waiting for it to dry, but not quite as mad as having worked hard on a bow only to have taken a shortcut and ruined it. You'd think I'd learn, but that's one mistake I still repeat from time to time. Steam it and you won't be sorry in the long run.
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What is a pressure strip for the belly?
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Thanks for all the Information guys! I think it will have to be boiled here also, because of how dry it is. Scott how long do you have to boil them? I understand the belly backing thanks for the picture.
One more question, what kind of improvements will a guy see in a bow when he flips the tips?
Thanks again
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What length of bow would be most usefull in flipping the tips? like a 56-60" bow?
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It helped on my 66" NtN hophornbeam... They open up a little at full draw so I think that helps... :)
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Tell are you wanting working or static recurves ?
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The chapter in TBBII about recurves discusses bow length and other important factors about building recurves. The "Bending Wood" chapter, in the same volume, is also quite informative. IMO a static recurve is easier to build and tiller, and I believe it is a more efficient design. With that efficiency comes more stress so you deal with the trade offs.
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Ken,
I was just playing with the idea. Dont really know that much about them. I am gonna do what Pat said and read the TBB a little and see what I want to do. Probably static recurves though.
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