Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: profsaffel on July 28, 2010, 11:24:38 pm
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Hi gang. I was out in the ol' woodshop today and I managed to ruin a perfectly good pyramid bow in progress. When I first started bow making, such a disaster and overwhelming feeling of disappointment would take me out of the mood for a day or more. This morning, however, I just said a choice word, took a deep breath, and started looking for another stave or board to work on. I perused my collection but nothing called to me.
Then, I found this maple board. It whispered that it wanted desperately to be molded into a deer hunting machine, and the temptation was too much to resist. So I pulled it out of the shadows and brought it into the light. I carried it around the shop, laid it down, studied it, and examined it. But alas, I just couldn't decide what this bow is supposed to look like. That's when I got the idea to turn to you for help.
It's a very hard maple (originally for wood flooring) board, just under 2 inches wide, just over an inch thick, and 60" long. That leaves me with quite a few options. Remember, I only need a 25" draw.
Here are some options:
A. pyramid style bow
B. classic American flatbow
C. Meare Heath
D. West Coast bow (like the one on the front cover of the current PA)
E. Modac style
F. scalloped design
G. Specific Eastern Woodland design
H. Caddo
I. Other suggestion?
I'm leaning away from a Meare Heath or classic flatbow due to the shortness of the board.
So, what should I do with this maple? U Design It!
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I would go with the Eastern Woodland or pyramid bow. The wide pyramid(2 1/4" fades) I built is a rocket launcher and the simplicity of the Eastern Woodland style will surprise you with how well it shoots.
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The grain on that bow is very, very bad. Take it back and choose a straight grained board. Info on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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Normally George, I would completely agree with you. But first, the board was given to me, and second, I need the practice, so even if the bow doesn't make, I'd have the experience. Then, if I like the design, I can find a better grained board and make one for real without ruining a perfectly good piece of wood. (I have another one just like it with better grain in storage, just in case ;))
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Agree with George, but I have to confess I have gotten away with such horrible grain on maple but only on backings. Good luck
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How about a mollegabet bow??
I dont ever see any made from maple.
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think it's possible to chase a ring on it? i've chased rings on a few hickory boards & liked the resulting bows
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Agree with George, but I have to confess I have gotten away with such horrible grain on maple but only on backings. Good luck
Hmmm, that's true. I do have some hickory backing strips... I wonder if this piece might like a hickory back?
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think it's possible to chase a ring on it? i've chased rings on a few hickory boards & liked the resulting bows
No, Jawge is correct, the grains are going every which way but loose. Ring chasing in this case is not an option.
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...I would definitely back it. Two failures in a row can be quite discouraging. I think it would make an awesome hickory backed maple pyramid bow. :)
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Second the pyramid, fast and fun to make. You can glue a little reflex in with the backing too.
Like your work proff.
Jeff
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Back it....Hickory and Maple go well together...and as for the style....once it's backed....Modoc for sure......... ;)
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Hickory backed pyramid with semi-bendy handle ;)
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My choice would be pyramid bow backed with bamboo. Hi- lite the boo knods and add a fancy dark handle with bone or horn tip over lays. Denny
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im all for a pyramid bow, as they are awesome, but i would go for a classic american flatbow design, but recurved. Slightly bending handle or a short non-bending handle. Or a pyramid bow. Both could be backed with linen or something else.
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Try an Eastern Woodlands or Pyramid bow with some bend in the handle, but see how well it goes without backing. Choose the layout to avoid all the worst parts parts you can see from tip of one limb to tip of the other limb.
Probably run out of wood before isolating one ring, so try to make but scrape/sand to reduce to as few backside rings and run-offs as possible. While doing that and tillering try to align the growth rings as well as possible with the back.
Sorry to talk out of school--I've made only 3 bows but the wood I used was also poor and this is how I approached it.
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OK but I was thinking from the standpoint of your safety, prosaffel. I've made tons of board bows. The only ones that have broken where boards that were given to me except for one which broke at a tiny knot that escaped me. Jawge
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Thanks George.
I think the overwhelming majority is pulling for a hickory backed pyramid. According to TBB, a 3/16 strip with epoxy should work. I do want to try the Modac design, but I think I've got a regular stave for that.
I'm still open for ideas/suggestions.
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Yo Prof,
Know for a fact ya aint scared of no short bows....build it and bend it man ;D Might as well throw in some reflexed tips while yer at it. Everybody needs a rocket launcher......
rich
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Yo Prof,
Know for a fact ya aint scared of no short bows....build it and bend it man ;D Might as well throw in some reflexed tips while yer at it. Everybody needs a rocket launcher......
rich
agreed
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Yo Prof,
Know for a fact ya aint scared of no short bows....build it and bend it man ;D Might as well throw in some reflexed tips while yer at it. Everybody needs a rocket launcher......
rich
Aye, Kap'n!
Today I'm keeping the little ones, but tomorrow, it's out in the heat shop for me!
Oh, and a question for you experienced composite makers out there... is it absolutely necessary that I use an epoxy or have you had success using a glue such as Titebond III?
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Titebond III works great for laminations... Make sure both surfaces are flat, smooth, and well-mated and it holds really well. :)
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Thanks Josh. I was hoping you'd say that since I have Titebond but no epoxy. :)
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My choice would be urac 185 , found tbb 3 to crack under the backing. I know a lot of fellows use it and I did for a long time, till I found bows failing because of the glue. Not all epoxy is good bow building glue either. Smooth -on is my choice.After 21 years of building , I have made a few mistakes and glue is not going to be one of them... Good luck. By the way linen ,can be glued up with tbb3 quite well. Just my experience. Denny
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Thanks for the advice Denny. I've not been overly pleased with my first attempt at backing, and even if the TBIII isn't at fault, I'll consider another glue or epoxy for the second attempt.
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I've used TBIII for years and never had a glue failure. You will get a bit of creap as it cures but is seems to be only a cosmetic problem. Urac is the best wood/wood glue to use. It will cure at room temp but cures faster in a hot box or at above room temps. I have also used Weldwood Plastic Resin for glue ups with good results. It is cheap, mixes with water(dry powder) and is very similar to Urac. I get it at my local ACE hardware store.
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Maple is my fav whitewood, and I've had great success backing board bows with rawhide. I'd definately back that board!