Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Blacktail on June 29, 2010, 07:34:18 pm
-
has any one used tite bond HIDE glue and snake skin...trying to find some thing new for snake skin..thanks john
-
I have used Elmers Wood Glue and Tite Bond regular wood glue...but never hide glue. You could use it but it is not water resistant so will need to seal the bow with a good finish if in humidity or out in rain. If keeping it all natural is main priority you would be okay as snakeskins are somewhat water proof except at edges where they may try to lift due to moisture.
Should work fine though...
-
thanks for the info...Scott,i am glad you replyed...i was wondering how long it would take..now i know..i normally use Knox and it drys over night...and thanks for the heads up on the expiration date..john
-
John, If it is past shelf life it doesn't go bad. Just add about a teaspoon of vinegar and shake and it will be as good as new. JMO, TB3 works a whole lot better.
-
Never used it,I always use TB3. I have heard some pretty good things about it. :)
Pappy
-
My only complaint with TB3 is it sets up fast when backing rawhide with snakeskin. Someone suggested TB2 would be a little slower. Guess the rawhide suck it the moisture. On a plain back it seems to work great for me.
-
I've used TB hideglue for SSs, but never again. TB3 is so much better and easier, and dries 100X faster.
-
Hey Big, I size the rawhide(and bow before rawhiding) with TBIII and let it cure. This seals it so it doesn't soak up the moisture. You can add a bit of water to thin the glue and it will extend the open time.
-
TB hide glue works fine with good drying times, use it when I don't have time to heat up the real deal. TB3 works great on about everything
Tracy
-
I've used tb11 and knox gelatin, liked the knox better, really sucked the skin down to the bow, gave time to smooth it out and didn't have to wrap it
-
I've used the titebond hide glue on skins.Just don't get in any hurry though.Mine seemed like it takes over a week to cure.I've also tried titebond 3,and albeit,you don't have much time to fool with it,but it sure dries fast. God Bless
-
I have used both TB2 and TB hide glue, both work with good results. I sized the back like Pat said on both products. Then a second layer on the bow and a layer on the snakeskin. It sticks almost instantly on both. When my son Cody did his first bow he used TB2 and it worked out great. Plenty of open time for a 11 year old to work the skins so I don't think that is a concern.
I think you would be crazy to seal anything within several days of gluing the skins on so dry time isn't a concern. I also like to seal the skins good to help hold the scales down so I don't care about waterproof. :o
-
I use TB hide glue for all my skins. I'm not sure why others have a problem with drying, I leave it overnight and it is dry in the morning. I like hide glue because because I have more working time and it is easier to remove bubbles after the glue cures - a warm iron and sharp needle is all it takes.
-
I think you would be crazy to seal anything within several days of gluing the skins on so dry time isn't a concern. I also like to seal the skins good to help hold the scales down so I don't care about waterproof. :o
maybe leaving the scales on is why yours take days to dry....I always remove all the scales I can and 24 hours is usually more than enough using elmers wood glue or titebond... My current skin has been on bow for 10 years.
-
I've used both TB 3 and the Titebond liquid hide glue. I prefer the liquid hide glue hands down. I like it better because of the much longer working time you have when using it. Also if you get a bubble after drying it is real easy to repair with by making a small hole with a pin an heating it with a iron. It does take a pretty long time to dry but I'm usually not in a hurry, especially at the finishing stage.
-
I think you would be crazy to seal anything within several days of gluing the skins on so dry time isn't a concern. I also like to seal the skins good to help hold the scales down so I don't care about waterproof. :o
maybe leaving the scales on is why yours take days to dry....I always remove all the scales I can and 24 hours is usually more than enough using elmers wood glue or titebond... My current skin has been on bow for 10 years.
You help the skin shed, but you don't really remove the scales only the old skin, the scales are still on there. I do the same thing, as most people do. I don't have a problem with drying, but I think it is wise to let it cure. You never know how much moisture the wood has absorbed from the glue. You spend a year or more waiting for the wood to cure and days building a bow. Why would you want to take a chance on applying a finish before all the moisture from the glue is gone?
-
I generally seal the back of the bow with a thin layer of TBIII let it cure overnight then add the skins with TBIII. This sealing helps to keep new moisture from entering the wood.
I skinned an osage bow a few years ago and after a few days realized it felt mushy and had lost 10# of draw weight. I set it in my utility room for a week and it came back to life and back to it's intended draw weight. After that I began sealing the wood before adding the skins. I still give a newly skinned bow at least few days to "cure" before stressing it.
-
Can you put a layer of TB3 over sinew that has been laid with hide glue and not lose any sinew benefits? Then lay some skins down?
-
Jeff, I have done that too on the last few sinew backed bows I built. ;) Works well!
-
Can you put a layer of TB3 over sinew that has been laid with hide glue and not lose any sinew benefits? Then lay some skins down?
Yes,
The irony to this conversation is that the snakeskins will provide about as much water proofing as the TB will so worrying about the waterproofing under the snake skin is a little funny. Roll the snake skin over the edge of the bow a little to make sure it is completely covering the sinew. And I still recommend curing then sealing. ;D