Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: chuckp on June 06, 2010, 05:37:19 pm
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Which is the preferred rasp, the Shinto saw rasp, or the Nicholson #49 for taking down limbs prior to floor tiller?
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I have a Nicholson 49...and had a Shinto Rasp too...I liked the Shinto...but I liked the Ferriers Rasp better than it...so I sold it on eBay
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I go from course Farriers to smoother Farriers to cabnet scrapper.
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Chuckp, I've got both and wind up using both. Why limit yourself? The saw rasp ( in my hands) can be more aggresive in reoving wood, especially for flat surfaces. The Nielson rasps are 1/2 round, and the round side works well for shaping handles and snaky little areas. Ron
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The #49 cabinet rasp is an amazing tool to use... I wish I had gotten mine sooner.
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I have a bunch of rasps, but 99% of the time I use the farrier's rasp for all roughing out and early tillering. You can flip it from the coarse to the fine side, and it's big and flat enough to get a good sweep down the limbs. The #49 is a good rasp, but it's small and has a fine cut- it is much more useful to me for shaping handles, fades, and such than actually working the limbs down. I bought a new farrier's rasp for less than $20 at a tack store several years ago, and it's one of the best bowbuilding investments I've made.
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Farrier's rasp usually to start and get most of the wood off,then the 49,till time for the scraper. :)
Pappy
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I've never used a shinto but i have always been intrigued by them. I Have UBR10, farriers, and 4-in-hand. i think it's funny that i use the farriers and 4-in-hand a lot more than the expensive (but nice) UBR10.
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A farriers rasp?
Farrier than who?
Whad you call me?
HEHEHE
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I had a guy come up to me recently and asked,"What do they call you guys,Farriers?I said,with a staight face, yeah,N i been called way worse than that.He didnt know how to respond to that n just walked away,with a real confused look on his face.LOL
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Seems like most prefer the farriers rasp.
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Farriers rasp is awesome, but the different types server different purposes.
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never used a farrieris rasp or a shinto or a real nicholson #49
im a sure form kinda guy ;)
once you get the hange of a sure form you can hog off wood real fast o scrape lightly like a scraper would and everything inbetween
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I love to use the farriors rasp for roughing out a bow. It has the wood removal speed of a power tool, but with the control of a hand tool. I use an old no name rasp for finish shaping. It is flat on one side and round on the other. The rounded side is great for shaping handles. Just my 2 cents.
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I posted this in another sub forum, but Grizzly tools has a very nice cabinet makers rasp that's very cheap. It's made in China, but all the Nicholson 49's and 50's are made in Brazil now. I have the 12" version, and it can really hog off the wood. As an added bonus it's only $12 or so. They also have an 8" version that's on my wish list.
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I have the Farriers and the #49 and #50. Which one I use depends on the density of the wood I'm working with and where on the bow I'm working. I really like a sharp radius blade spokeshave.
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I could have written Hillbillys post. Pattern maker rasps for shaping, ferriers rasp for floor tillering. I like the smooth side of the ferriers rasp in particular for draw filing to smooth up the cut for a scraper/bowyers edge.
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Id like to Add,that all Farriers Rasps are not created equal.Use a good one,and youll never look back.Ive had people tell me my used ones are sharper and work better,than their brand new cheap ones.I tried a cheap one,for all of about 30 seconds,and gave it away.IMO oppinion,the best are called Save Edge,from Finland.They run about 25 to 30 bucks depending where you buy em.Stay away from anything from anything less than 20 bucks unless you find a great closeout sale.
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How about this one!
http:/ /www.amazon.com/Save-Edge-Inch-Beast-Rasp/dp/B000QUXVCS?SubscriptionId =1G78SKE6B9KVDSJ53X82&tag=atoooools3-20& linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000QUXVCS
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I use the Shinto up to the point of floor tiller than switch to the Nicholson. The shinto takes wood off in a hurry.
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I've got a microplane (like a sureform, but with square straight teeth), a couple of half round rasps, a bastard file and a mill file. If it's been a bad day at the office, and there's plenty of wood to remove before floor tillering, I use the microplane while making suitable Braveheart noises until it all gets better, then I settle in with the rasps, then work out the rough tool marks with the files, then finish up with the scrapers. It's all very zen. ;)
Frode
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I guess I am the black sheep here. I throw farriers rasp as far as my arm allows. ;) and never look twice at were they land. ;D
I prefer 49-50 and the ubr-10.
Just my humble opinion. O:)
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I find the farrier rasp too coarse for my liking...I've had them tear the edge of staves that I was working.
Now, I won't throw it off and away like Tim but mine stays up on the garage work bench.
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Hey Timo, i love my UBR10 but pretty much just use the coarse side. have you had problems with the fine side clogging up alot? I don't use excessive pressure and the wood is dry. I emailed Dean and just told me the wood was wet. ???
do you use chalk or anything?
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Gopher, I have never had one of them clog on me. osage,elm, hickory mostly. Moisture is a contrary thing,kinda like Dean ....You always get an answer,even though it isn't always the one you thought you might. ;D
I just keep them clean,no chaulk, just clean it out after every use with one of those lil soldering brass bristle brushes.
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HI, I find my rasps and shinto clogging with dust at sporadic intervals. Oily wood like ipe seems to be the worst for me, but bamboo can be a pain too, when flattening the underside for use as a backing. File cards are the tool designed just to clean such clogging. I can't remember how much my file card cost, but it was darn cheap, has lasted for years and cleans the rasps with just 1 or 2 passes. Ron
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Can't have too many tools in my opinion, unless they have a power cord. What I can do in two minutes with any of my rasps I can screw up in 2 seconds with a power tool.
I have a Nicholson rasp that is flat on one side and half round on the other, but it is not one of the better 49's or 50's, no numbers on it, just Nicholson. Also have an old Nicholson four way, got two more of the new ones made in Brazil and neither one will cut cotton candy. Lotta guys love those sureforms, but I have bought two different types and have taken a hammer to both of 'em in frustration. Felt mighty good at the time, ya know.
Get a bunch of those old cheap foam rubber mouse pads that every company in the world used to give away, put them all over your bench and set your rasps on them, one rasp per mouse pad. Make a habit of that and you will have them last a lot longer. Every time a rasp hits another metal tool you lose the cutting edge of a tooth or two, it starts to add up.
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Good idear, JW
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Nice tip. Another good one is to put the business card magnets places hand out on the bottom of planes to protect the blades ;)
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has anyone had problems with surform handles coming off easily?
I'm just gonna glue it on with 5 min epoxy.
Any other sugestions?
Thanks
Ron
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ive had my cheap "tool shop" version of a sureform for 3 yrs,have used it on about 15 differant stave bows and about as many board bows
only problem i have is the round belly blades tend to slide to one side a little bit
but never had a problem with the handle coming off
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4-n -1, ferriers rasp(the guy we use doesn't allow them to dull and gives me all of his used ones) scrapers vary from metal to edge of hornstone nodule(sharp!).
Use what you got and are comfortable with and having fun ;)
Tracy
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i have a cheap Tool Shop rasp...I used it for about five minutes to find out it barely cuts pine. Finally went and bought a surform and WOW it shaved off wood like no tomorrow...I mean my tool shop literally would not cut wood for the life of it...I tried every angle and a lot of pressure...the surform takes off more wood with just the weight of the tool...I love it.
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My farrier's rasp is a constant companion. I like 4 in 1 rasps, too, particularly for handles and fades.
Dane