Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bigcountry on April 26, 2010, 12:47:25 pm
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I am working on a osage selfbow. I left the tips 1/2 or more. I kept reading about Dean Torges moving tips, but it appears his bows are mostly backed bows.
Anyway, I have tried twice to steam the handle to get the tips lining up. Still need to move them 1/2". So I can cut them to 3/8 or more and move them. But then I will have some grain runoff to the edge. Currently the grain runs dead center of the bow.
I will have to move both tips and a little at the handle to get this to work. I really don't want to steam the handle again.
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I'd try side knocks.
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If you leave the nocks wide until at least the first stringing you can cut them further in on the offending side and then sand them even. If you leave the handle full width you can also shape it in such a fashion that tracks the string better! Jawge
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Well, George if its good enough for you, its good enough for me. ;D
I was just worried that now the center of the tip/grain now will be to one side relative to the rest of the limb.
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If it's close to center I would not worry about it unless you want to make your character all wooden bow appear like a fiberglass bow. :) Jawge
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I do like George said. On occasion I will even leave them a little out of alignment so the string falls just a little bit to the side that the arrow passes. This makes it like a center shot without cutting all the way to center.
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The tips are generally rigid so a little grain run off is acceptable. Why are you lining up the tips by bending the handle? Bend the tips if necessary. Can you post pics so we can see exactly what you mean?
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The tips are generally rigid so a little grain run off is acceptable. Why are you lining up the tips by bending the handle? Bend the tips if necessary. Can you post pics so we can see exactly what you mean?
Reason I bend at the handle is its not a working section. Its just the way I was taught. Also I have had bad luck getting much movment side to side with heat. I had better luck reflexing or recurving tips. Its just what I have confidense in. But always open to learning.
Here is where I got it too now. Not too bad. It was much worse. I can try to take off material off the offending side and finish it off with a little heat at the tips.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn73/bigcountry_ky/Osage4/OsageTipAlignment.jpg)
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Use dry heat on the tip to bend it sideways a bit. When you heat the wood apply the heat on the side of the limb and on the inside of the bend. If you don't understand then send me a PM and I'll explain it better
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Use dry heat on the tip to bend it sideways a bit. When you heat the wood apply the heat on the side of the limb and on the inside of the bend. If you don't understand then send me a PM and I'll explain it better
None on the outside of the bend at all Marc? Interesting. What is the reason for that?
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Use dry heat on the tip to bend it sideways a bit. When you heat the wood apply the heat on the side of the limb and on the inside of the bend. If you don't understand then send me a PM and I'll explain it better
Great tip. Thanks
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May I ask how exactly you attempted to use steam? The last bow I made adjustments to I had to just steam the handle. I got the wood good and hot and then clamped it in a form that forced the limbs the direction I wanted, but left the handle clear. I then wrapped a wet rag around the handle for about 10 minutes. After that I placed a 500w shop light about 12" away from the wood. I would turn it every 15 minutes, let it fully cool, reapply the rag, then more heat. After four passes I washed the wood thoroughly with alcohol to help pull moisture out and oiled it up. After setting for about a week I removed the clamp and got the near 2" of adjustment I needed.
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I can't say I ever went thru all that for steaming. I just steamed for 1 hour the handle only, (shellaced the back) and put in a form and clamped down to get an adjustment, but I didn't clamp too much in fear of cracking at the handle which I have seen others do. I did this twice and got slight adjusments each time. I would tighten to the clamp by feel.
I didn't leave in the form for more than a few hours which could be my mistake. I just took it out after it cooled. Never heard of folks wrapping and using a lamp, etc. But sounds interesting. Maybe I should have left it clamped for a few days.
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I don't believe I would go through near as much effort for just half an inch :)
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Well, my heating was successful. I figured I would show some on here my jig for this. I would heat the area I wanted to move for 10-20min and then take the pressure off the pressure clamps slowly. I would adjust the wieght on the handle so I wouldn't put too much pressure. I usually end up breaking a bow or the limb won't move but will bow when I do this. By using the L-shaped piece of alum, the wood moved when it wanted too.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn73/bigcountry_ky/Osage4/Tipbending.jpg)
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Use dry heat on the tip to bend it sideways a bit. When you heat the wood apply the heat on the side of the limb and on the inside of the bend. If you don't understand then send me a PM and I'll explain it better
None on the outside of the bend at all Marc? Interesting. What is the reason for that?
Much safer
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Use dry heat on the tip to bend it sideways a bit. When you heat the wood apply the heat on the side of the limb and on the inside of the bend. If you don't understand then send me a PM and I'll explain it better
None on the outside of the bend at all Marc? Interesting. What is the reason for that?
Much safer
Because it doesn't dry it out?
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I have to agree with the dry heat now. Every bow I have steamed after its dry has developed a cracked in its back. Usually harmless grain crack, but still won't do it anymore.