Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: half eye on April 15, 2010, 01:06:24 pm
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Lately I sent out some dimensions for some kids bows and thought maybe others could use them as well. Just to put the thing in perspective....these bows are from red oak boards (seems to be available in most areas), they are self bows, and have glued on handels.
These bows were designed to be made from straight grained boards, ripped to just over 3/8" thickness and require very little tillering. They work well, will take care of the normal "wear & tear" of youngsters, and can be made fairly quickly.
Please use the dimensions as a "guide", all wood is a little different. If your wood is marginal and you decide to cloth back them add 2-5 lbs to the weight at length figures.....other than that, hope it helps out some of ya that like building bows for kids.
There is a chart that you can "print-out" and picks of the two styles. The smaller bow is a "pyramid style" and the other is an "american flat-bow" style.
Rich
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dont know why the document didn't come through? hope it comes out this time
rich
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it came threw the first time for me. did u edit it or something?
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No, there was no editing, I just did not notice it as an unopenep attachment.....sorry.
Rich
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I can't get it to open at all..... >:(
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El D,
If it wont open by clicking on the paperclip.....give your email and I'll send one that way if thats ok?
Rich
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El D,
If it wont open by clicking on the paperclip.....give your email and I'll send one that way if thats ok?
Rich
Probably my Office Program...can you send it in PDF form??
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Hey Rich where did you get those designs from...I know a book...could you send me those patterns I along with my 2 kids would thank you kindly!
Russell
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It's funny you posted this today. I was just talking with my sister earlier about making her son one for Christmas. Thanks!
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Thanks very much for taking the time to post this. Its most helpful.
Greg
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Hey fellas,
My pleasure, and glad if it helps you out. I printed out the document, and then photo'd it and am adding the pic here so it will be available to everybody.
Rich
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thanks for posting it kids bows are hard to judge sometimes too heavy or too light its good to have a guideline.
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What , no Mollegabet bows for kids?
I like the little 40 something inch one. ;D
N2
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OK Jeff,
Guess we'll get some specs on those here in a day or two...... Wait till you see the maple backed Ipe i'm finishing up ....got me some real nice IPE from you. Ya wont believe how thin the working limbs are though.....
I'll add the Mollegabet specs to the list and then re-post it for you.
Rich
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Well Rich I told you it would go over pretty good on here. Again thanks for doing all of this. Hopefully i have time this weekend to work on these bows.
Thanks again.
Tell
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Tell,
How can ya not do something to put a smile on a kids face? Hope they get grinnin hard :D Only a kid can have an African Safari in the back yard....beats computer-fying.
Rich
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Only a kid can have an African Safari in the back yard...
You ain't seen my back yard... :o
Looks like the Savannah. Grass tufts so big and long, a Wildebeast could be hiding behind one :D
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thanx halfeye for posting i needed this i am needing to make a 25lb at 26" draw long bow and these guidelines are perfect ;D ;D ;D
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Glad it helped some. Good for you, a smile on a kids face is truely priceless ;)
Rich
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So is the handle glued on because you are assuming we start with a 3/8 inch thick board or is there another reason. I ask because most of the boards I have or have access to are 3/4 inch and when I look at my kids hands...(girls, 7 and 9 and a 5 yo boy) I would think 3/4 inch is nearly thick enough.
so I would then try to remove everything that aint a bow... ;D
Thank you for posting this halfeye
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Tractor,
I built the bows from 3/8 stock because I had a bunch ripped for backers....turned out that was about right for most kids bows (weight range and draw) so the grips were glued on to fill their hands.
The 3/8 boards give a bow with an absolute minimum of tillering....but of course you could cut one out of thicker stock and include the grip at that time....it would just require some tillering effort. The 3/8 slabs allow ya to make bows very quickly so you can replace, or remake as necessary without having to look at that "what the hell's takin so long" face that I've become quite familiar with.
Rich
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... The 3/8 slabs allow ya to make bows very quickly so you can replace, or remake as necessary without having to look at that "what the hell's takin so long" face that I've become quite familiar with.
Rich
Ah yes I know that face well. My wife uses it whenever I am supposed to be fixing something around the house. She taught it to the kids and they have put it to great and varied use.
I have found that beer and wood shavings can make me invulnerable to it's power.
Mike
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Rich, this is great stuff. I have to make up a bunch of kids bows for a fall event.
Maybe I am just blind, but about what poundage and draw length would you recommend for a kid's bow when you may get a number of kids of different ages and sizes? I.e. I wont be making bows for a particular kid.
And, hopefully not too hard a question, what about quicky red oak board bows for adults who have never shot a bow? Same event, and it would be nice to give folks an opportunity to shoot a bow. I'm thinking low poundage, so it can be drawn without a glove or tab, and no arm guard is needed.
Dane
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Hey Dane,
All of the pyramid's can be tweeked a little by some flat sanding on the backs (reduce weight) but
for kids say 4-8yrs use the AFB 20# @ 27" (for tall kids) or the #3 pryamid 16# @ 25" (shorter kids) Since these kids will have arm length (draw) comenserate with age a bow 16# @ 25" will be weak enough for a 14" draw etc.
Kids 10-12 etc. I'd go with #2 pyramid as it will draw to 25" easily......#1 pryamid will work ok for 13-15 old kids, and if they are stronger or draw more than about 25-26 inches put them into a light adult model which they will probably "under-draw" and have less weight.
The American Flat-bow will accomodate 28" draw with out to much trouble. if you want one at about 20-25# go with 3/8 thickness and if ya want 25-30 go 1/2 inch and you will have to sand a little off of the thickness. if ya want to go 30-40 or so leave the limbs at about the 1/2" thickness.
By using quartersawn or at least biased grain you can sand the thickness down flat on the back (ya can do the belly also but it's faster to sand down the back) If your wood is plain sawn use the same dimensions but glue on a cloth backer and sand on the belly. That's about as easy but will involve a little more time
One other thing....it is very easy to tweek any of these for weight....simply sand down the edges a little at a time and they will lay right in there for you. Hope I said this right.....if not just let me know, and I'll be happy to try a clearer explanation.
Rich
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I put a post on the Campfire section about the Bring Back the Bow Project week we are doing at Eagle Butte, SD in mid june with the Lakota youth.
http://www.bringbackthebow.com
The bows we will be making are heavily 48" long, a few longer and a few shorter, tweaking the depth on these to 3/8s can bring the weight up, most of them I suggest making 1 and 1/8" at the fade and 3/4" wide at the tips, last year we had 140 bows made. Hoping more this year, I am bringing about 85 staves, and others more.
we will sinew back some bows from this wood I am bringing on the first eve, and will have a drawing the last eve for the winner to pick their choice of five bows they will have learned to sinew themselves.
As was said earlier, hard to beat a kids smile. This is a real fun week.
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Rich, you answered my questions perfectly. Thank you.
Dane