Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: woodsman1031 on March 26, 2010, 10:53:14 pm
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Is it OK to discuss board bows on this site?
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sure,boards bows are nothing more than a piece of wood just like a stave bow
so they are still self bows
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OK great, I am usually down in anything else and I didnt remember.
I just got a really good end grain oak board and a new bottle of TB3. I found a tutorial by Sam Harper using a 1 1/2" x 3/4" 72" board. I just remembered that the new string that I have is 60 1/2" long from the loop side closed to the string. I really need to use this string because I would like to work on this bow this weekend. Would someone give me some rough out dimensions for a board bow for my string length? I am also unsure what my NTN length would be for this string.
If yall are not familiar with Sam Harper I can post a link, if it is not against the rules.
Tommy
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Sam Harper's site is what gave me the bow building bug! I must have 5 copies of those 10 or 12 pages from his site scattered around my apartment.
Now, as far as strings are concerned, I have a suggestion. I would suggest you get your hands on a spool of dacron b-50. I managed to score a 1/4 pound spool for 6 bucks, and it looks like it will make bow strings for the rest of my life and have some left over. I priced bowstrings, and this spool was cheaper than any prices I found online.
One reason I suggest this is, you want a longer string to start tillering with. You'd then use your shorter normal length string when you get to the point where you're ready to string it at "full brace".
Now that I've said all that, let me put a tape measure on my string: 60 and 3/4 ", or 60.75 inches.
I also started with the same size red oak board, 1" by 2" by 72" dimensional, which means actual measurements of 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 72". I cut my notches in 1 inch from the end. My brace is 6 and 1/2 inches, measuring from the belly of my handle to the string.
I don't remember if my string stretched at all.. but I think it's very likely that your string would work just find.
I would suggest that you start tillering with a longer piece of cord of some kind, maybe some strong rope you might have sitting around?
The very last thing I would suggest, is that you do a google search for "how to build an american flat bow", you should come across some vintage looking plans that are almost identical to Sam Harpers'. They did have some other info in there that helped with the build process a LOT.
One thing Sam suggests is using that drywall tape, 3 layers of it. That stuff is fiberglass. It works, but on my second bow, I did linen instead. That ended up looking a lot better, and was 1 tiny touch closer to "primitive'.
Hope this helps.
Riley, Saint Paul, MN
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I used this same string on a 68" NTN bow I made and it gave me about a 12" brace height.
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Don't build a bow to your string. Build a new string for your bow. If you don't have another string to work with or the means to make one I will make you one and send it to you. In the mean time use a piece of parachute cord or clothesline to make a tiller string.
A 64" bow should work with your 60 1/2" string.
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Don't build a bow to your string. Build a new string for your bow. If you don't have another string to work with or the means to make one I will make you one and send it to you. In the mean time use a piece of parachute cord or clothesline to make a tiller string.
A 64" bow should work with your 60 1/2" string.
OK that is what I was thinking that this string was too short for a bow that long. I appreciate you offering the string to me as well. I was kind of hoping to modify the design on that website to match my string, but I will take you up on that offer.
Thanks Alot!!
Tommy
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Send me a PM with your mailing address. The strings I make have a loop on one end and a bowyers knot on the other and are 2 bundle strings. I have brown, white, yellow and green string material.
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One thing Sam suggests is using that drywall tape, 3 layers of it. That stuff is fiberglass. It works, but on my second bow, I did linen instead. That ended up looking a lot better, and was 1 tiny touch closer to "primitive'.
I'd second the linen part. I've used it on all my bows so far, with Titebond II and III, and it is very easy to work with, and really not very expensive. A quarter yard only costs $5-6, and with careful cutting may even give you enough for a second bow. And it paints up nice, if that's the way you want to go at finishing time.
Frode
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Howdy Woodsman, PatB and others,
Yes, what PatB said.
You'll want a string that is about 3-1/2" shorter than your bow. However, 64" is a pretty short bow especially for a stiff handled bow. So, consider going with a bendy handled, D- bow. (A bendy handled bow is supposed to be easier to build that one with a stiff handle.)
Search around, and I'm sure you'll find a tutorial for this type of bow.
(And PatB, I hope you don't mind if I PM you also.)
All the Best,
Canoe
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Please do, Canoe.
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Woodsman, I wouldn't hesitate to make a bow at 64" as long as you don't have a really long draw, over 28". Remember, that is the length from nock to nock, not tip to tip. Rough your bow out to 66" then when you are ready to cut the nocks, you will cut them in 1" from the tips. I would use linen or silk for the backing. Just apply it with your TB3 and you will be in great shape. Justin
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One other thing, go to George's page, he has lots of info on board bows and silk backings. Sams buildalong is fine, but you will find additional information on George's site that you wont on Sam's. http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/archer.html
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Well I have it 70% roughed out. I used my table top delta bandsaw to help alot. I got inside my line about a 1/16th of an inch on the sides of one of the fades but I kind of just eyeballed it back in line. I hope I can still make it work. Either way I have learned a TON in the last couple of hours.
I used my rasp for smoothing out my cuts. I am not completly done with that, I had to take a break.The first thing I learned is watch for spinters :o I noticed that in this tutorial he mentions marking a 1/4" all the way around the outside of the back and rounding over the fades to this point. I think if I am careful I should be able to use my 1x30 verticle bandsaw for this, kind like I round out knife scales. Anyone else use a bandsaw for that?
Tommy
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Don't do it!!!!!!
Way to much wood has been ruined by getting in a hurry with power tools. It is faster in the long run to just use hand tools and get it right the first time. Roughing it out with power tools is one thing, but don't get carried away.
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I just realized that I said bandsaw, I ment belt sander ;D
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I did about another hours worth of work on the bow Sunday evening. I have smoothed out the sides and belly of the fades on one side with a surform, rasp and 60 grit. I rounded it of to within 1/4 inch of the back. Do I round off the to that 1/4" all the way to the handle? It is really looking good so far. It is VERY relaxing to me to spend time working with the hand tools. It is much quieter too. I feel like I am doing a better job on this one than I did on 2 other failures. I have found that I pay more attention when I work on it just a little at a time. I wont be able to touch it again until friday beacuse of the long hours I am working for the next 3 days. If I have time I will take some and post pics of my progress tomorrow night when I get home. any suggestions for some, good easy to aquire backing material that isnt too ugly?
Tommy
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That is the way to do it. A little at a time slowly and patiently.
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I, for one, am ready to see some pictures.
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Sorry guys,
I attempted to take pics this evening, but the batteries konked out before I got to take a picture. I will get them on here soon.
Tommy
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Sounds like you are having fun! Jawge
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OK guys, here are some pictures. Hopefully I will get a chance to work on it more tomorrow.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/woodsman1031/DSCN01721.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/woodsman1031/DSCN01701.jpg)
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Scott,
Can you recomend some backing material that is readily available other than fiberglass drywall tape?
Tommy
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i would say linen, silk, burlap, rawhide or brown paper bag would work very well as possible backings
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thats a lot of runoff...two many for me to risk getting whopped in the face lol.
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I don't know much about board bows but I agree that looks like a lot of run off,I would suggest
backing with some type of wood backing,at least if it was mine.Maybe some of these guys that build a lot of board bows will chime in. :) Rawhide and some of the other backings mentioned will do good to hold down a splinter but with that much run off I don't think so. :)
Pappy
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Pappy,
Thanks for the advise. I think I may scrap this one and find a better board. This run off did not show like then when the board was still square, or at least I didnt notice.
Tommy
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Cotton "drill" cloth is a lightweight canvas and enough to do 3-4 bows will only set you back a couple bucks from a fabric store.
You really want the end grain of a board to be as close to straight up and down as you can get it, unless you're going to back with wood. The board in your pic has the grain laying over beyond 45 degrees.
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PatB,
I got the string in the mail today.
Thanks
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Good. Hope it works for you.
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Thats mighty good of you Pat ,reminds me of why I enjoy this site so much even tho I dont say much.
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Nice gesture, Pat. That bow needs to definitely be backed. Linen or burlap would be a good choice. This somemburlap info on my site which is posted above. Good night. Jawge