Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: KShip85 on December 08, 2009, 02:48:36 am
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Well, I've just finished a new cedar bow, I guess. Not really sure how I feel about it yet, and I am sure the tillering is less than good, but so far it shoots and is holding together so maybe it can at least get me through late archery and let me see if I can claim my first dear ever with a bow I made myself as I have wanted to do. Specs on this one are 63 inches long, 2 1/2" at the fades going for 16 inches then tapering to 5/8" nocks. Backed with some kind of cotton canvas pulling 70 lbs at 24 inches. I'd like to get it to pull a little more and keep the weight but am afraid of having another on blow on me if I take it any more. Anyway there she is, thanks for looking and as always I am eager to learn so feel free to tell me any areas I might be able to improve on her.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0752.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0754.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0757.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0760.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0765.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0766.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0767.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0768.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/kshipley85/100_0769.jpg)
Thanks again for looking!
Kip
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I'm certainly just a novice so just take my opinions with a grain of salt. I do think that it's only bending near the handle (a spot I'm afraid to get bending and need to work on) and that if you were to work the mid limb you could get your full draw...Pretty Bow though.
Nate Danforth
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looks cool, i hope it doesn't break!
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You need to get the Limbs bending ....both Limbs are trying to Hinge on you right out of the fades...they are going to fail if you don't get them bending correctly. Cedar is great wood...but it will fail if the Tiller isn't right as will most woods....I would work on getting the Limbs out from the Fades working and shoot for a more compass tiller on that one....otherwise I believe it is destined to fail at a sooner rather than later time....JMO
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As El D says; I marked areas that I believe have too much bend (red) and not enough bend (green)
Not sure, hard to tell from the picture...
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Beautiful bow,tiller dose need a little attention,what has been suggested is about what I would do
also,if you correct you could get a little more draw you want and still have the weight. :) You should pick up 3 lbs or so per inch of draw so if you scrape 2 or 3 lbs off getting the tiller right and add an inch of draw then you come out even with a bow that has a much better chance of having a long and productive life. ;) :) :)
Pappy
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...and yes, it'll be a fine looking bow!
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gona be a nice on, just take the words the good men on here give you and use it, hope that didnt sound to demanding. just i put alot of trust in these bow builders on here cause they been through it all.
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Hey ship, I believe it's just a couple of careful strokes with the scraper and you'll be done!
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Like the other guys say, let it bend more along the mid limb and tips.
A lot of people leave the tips stiff and some designs demand it (Holmgaard style), but if you allow every bit of the limb to bend you can get a much longer draw without an expolosion!
Here's an example of a more semicircular shape.
Note the chalk lines drawn on the wall around the limbs, they help you see that each part of the limb is bending more as you move out along the limb.
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Del_the_Cat/fulldraw.jpg)
You can see the left limb (lower limb) which is shorter is having to bend much more than the top one. Without the whole limb bending it wouldn't come back that far. It is a nice quick bow (Hazel)
Del
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Dang, this board really is like bowyer's university, isn't it!
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Dang, this board really is like bowyer's university, isn't it!
Yes it is and with enough professors for each student to have their own.
Nice looking bow. I would take their advice
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Something is bothering me about the fades coming right out of the handle. They look like maybe they fade too abruptly.
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They may be a Bit Short....even for a Pyramid Bow...but I think that They will be just fine...as long as He utilizes all bendable wood....I think it will all be Good....JMO
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i love the shape and the contrasting wood handle you put on.
i hope you were hoping for a tiller check, cause you got it in spades!
hey del: where is that tiller tree set up, a new york city alleyway?
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i love the shape and the contrasting wood handle you put on.
i hope you were hoping for a tiller check, cause you got it in spades!
hey del: where is that tiller tree set up, a new york city alleyway?
LOL, Nope, it's in my garage in Harlow England.
Doncha love the exploded switchpoint motif on the wall?
The bathroom is above the garage and water must have leaked into the switch before we owned the property. Adds a touch of class :)
Del
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When you're finished making some tiller adjustments, you might want to increase your brace height a couple of inches. Try and make it about 6" from the back of the bow.
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Others on here are much more qualified to comment on the bowyering. My only thought is that you might find you get a more efficient bow if you can extend your draw length a bit, even if it costs you some of the weight. I believe you will find you shoot the same weight arrow at the same speed, or better, if you get back to 27" and 60 pounds as you will get shooting 24" and 70 pounds, longer power stroke. Something about the draw pic looks a little "hunched up" to me, for lack of a better term. I like to see "relaxed" draw pics. Just a suggestion.
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Thanks for all the input guys, I have started scraping and am already seeing improvement. I'll be sure to post some more pics as soon as I get a little more scraping done. Thanks again all, I really cannot help but feel this is a little like a university except much more efficient in terms of actually getting students to learn. Maybe some of our higher education facilities could take a lesson from all you great folks on here!
Kip
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i agree 'ship, it's more like trade education, where other, more proficient tradesmen give you advice mid task on your craft.
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ship & innocente, remember good tiller is faster than high draw weight. develop a good eye for tiller and keep your tips light and you'll have some fast bows. Ship thats wide limb design should handle long draw, after you scrape it down and get them limbs bending you'll probably be close to that 70# @ 27 or 28".