Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: AKAPK on August 03, 2009, 06:30:09 am
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When Cutting for slanted Tip Overlays , what would the proper Degree of angle be ?
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Not sure on the dgree but about like this seems to work.I don't usually do that but this is how Greg dose it. He will probably chime in with the number he uses. :)
Pappy
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I don't really pay attention to the angle...on the tip Pappy shown here, I measured down 1/8" at the very end of the tip and marked it. Then I think this one was 1-3/4" long, again measured from the tip. Then connect the lines for your reference.
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Personal preference on looks is the norm,just make sure that you don't make it so steep that the string groves are past the belly wood. That causes the end of the tip to be like a fulcrum and pulls on the glue joint at full draw, instead of pulling into the belly wood.
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What they said. I just grab the bow, walk over to the belt sander, and start grinding on it until it looks right or I ruin it, whichever comes first. :)
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listen to Keenan: he had a tip overlay come off....
otherwise, just make a couple marks and remove wood until the overlay sits right...
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Nocks are very personal, I like simple and minimalist...some people like 'em to look like chess pieces...
Whatever floats your boat, just look at how the string sits at braced and full draw.
To me, anything adding extra unecessary tip mass has got to be bad
Del
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I don't mark out the bow at all, I used to but once I started sanding on it I found I wouldn't pay any attention to the lines anyways. I just start sanding until it looks good sometimes at a slant sometimes almost flat. I just depends on what I feel like doing.
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me i never cut into the back of the bow,only used overlays once.
they are pretty but looks to me like most add more weight to the tip
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Sailordad, the wonder of overlays is getting a tip thinner than a pencil because the notch is on the back. I never bother adding them for stave bows.
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Yeah, I usually put overlays on so I can get lighter tips, that groove across the back lets you narrow them down past the point where side nocks would work by themselves. Plus, they just look cool. :) And protect your bow tips.
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Thanks gentlemen, I have this Maple LB that the tips as is were about 5/8 So I measured down 3/8 and measured down towards the Handle 2/1/4 from the tip This is what it looks like so far, fist time I did it this way,usually leave the Overlays flat on the Back.
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Mark, that's areal Nice Tip Overlay :)
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I use the belt sander, and go 2" on the back, to flush with the belly. I have no idea what the angle is.
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I think Keenan made an excellant point earlier to consider...always make sure the original belly wood extends beyond the string notch so that the stress on the tip had belly wood for support directly under the string and doesn't solely rely on the glue joint.
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About 3/4" Eh?
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About 3/4" Eh?
If you're asking if 3/4" of belly wood past your nock grooves is enough, I'd guess it ought to be. ;)
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Mine are usually about 1/2". Never had one fail, yet.
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Still gotta clean this up a bit but this is what it looks like.
ADB That"s a sharp looking Tip. :)
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I am doing some tip overlays and I am having a hard time getting the wood planed flat to get a smooth transition from bow wood to tip overlay. I also don't own a belt sander and am trying to do this by hand. I am thinking about just piking my bow and starting over because I keep getting gaps. It is really frustrating. >:( >:(
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Josh!
1st - Get two absolutly plane pieces of (hard)wood.
2nd - Get the sort of tape to have underneathe the carpet that sticks to both sides.
3rd - Cut the wood as broad as your tape and something like 4-6" long.
4th - Get 40 grid and 100 grid sanding paper, and glue one to each woodblock with the tape.
Now you have half of the perfect tool for flattening the surface, the other half of the tool is your patience!!!
You can flatten the glueside of your overlay material on it, too; just clamp the woodblocks to your vise, and sand the overlay on it!
Have a look at my overlay-build-along:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1729.0.html
Hope that helps!
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thanks medicinewheel!!!! gonna try tonight to fix it.
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you're welcome!
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To me, anything adding extra unecessary tip mass has got to be bad
Del
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Actually overlays aloud you to make the outher limb much narrower, that means keeping the strenght while getting rid of the weight, therefore a well executed tip with overlay is actually lighter ;)
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well here are mine on the osage bow I am working on. Thanks a million Medicinewheel for keeping me from piking my bow and just starting over. You really helped me out man.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/deftones3333/kdk_0699.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/deftones3333/kdk_0698.jpg)
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I'm happy I could help! - Looks good, too! Is it antler you used??
SOOOO...when do we get to see the whole bow?? ;D ;D ;D
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This one chrysaled , no biggy, It made to the trash really fast. thats ok I got the Sinew back maple from the rest of the board and i only lost Five dollars for the backing, back to the major boo back project :)