Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: AKAPK on July 02, 2009, 04:18:12 am
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Just want to show that Chrysals are really bigger beneath the surface than they appear.
Also I can"t stress enough that if you are making a bow gift for someone, make sure that it does not have chrysals and make sure the bow is not drawn further than the intended draw length. someone could get hurt.
this bow was tillered for 26" draw and was pulled to 29" soon as I saw the Chrysals I knew the bow s life was over so, I opened it up and this is what it looks like.
the Chrysals are over 1/8" deep, thats scary. Could have been Worse.Phillip
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I agree. When a bow chrysalls on me it's suspect. But there are fixes that could make it last longer but it's not a definite. In my early days I had one literally fold up on my brother. Jawge
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I use to try and fix them all different kind of ways,now if the Chrystal on me I saw them up,
cook brats with them and start another. :) Not worth the chance.Haven't had many do it lately. :)
Pappy
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Both my holmgaards have chrysaled and they were the most work for me I really think holmgaards were not meant to be drawn more than 26" they seem to always chrysal at the end of the handle fades, checking for thickness there and towards mid limb is crucial.
never had a bow i made bust my face but did i got from another person but silly me back then did not know about max draw length.
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Was it black locust?
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Man that makes you think. I guess I won't shoot my little ash 42" indian bow much anymore. I had chrysals, then did some scraping before and after the chrysals thinking it would help. The bow is sinew backed but after seeing the pics above it makes me a little nervous.
VB
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This is a pretty cool post. I have some black locust I want to try to make chysal. Just for the hey of it really. I got several pieces that are not worth anything. I figured I could take down to floor tiller, and just way over floor tiller it. I hear how bad BL chysals and want to see how easy it is.
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Pretty easy for me to chrysal BL. ;D
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I've never experienced any chrysaling but ive heard alot about it on here. I suppose osage isnt very prone to doing it?
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Some of ya Know that you can fix a Chrysal if your in the tillering stage but after your all done and been shootin and let somebody else use the Bow and they pull it to far and they ruin your Hickory Bow. By the Way where did black locust come up? that stuff ya gotta tiller just right or it will chrysal.
Anyone got facts on the Bow Arc and bending beyond it(Snap)
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Phil, I've yet to build a Hickory bow that didnt eventualy chrystal. It's not you its the wood. I hate hickory for anything other than backings or center lams. There are lots of other better white woods out there....
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Unlike Ryan I like Hickory and have only had one do that,I will say I do overbuild mine and always tiller
to just over the draw length of who is going to shoot it.As for my own bows I don't let anyone shoot them if there draw is much longer, and they aren't aware of how to use a selfbow.That
goes for any wood as far as I am concerned. :)
Pappy
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I've never experienced any chrysaling but ive heard alot about it on here. I suppose osage isnt very prone to doing it?
Osage is exceptionally good compression wood and is therefore very forgiving. But if you spend much time working with whitewoods, you will eventually experience them.
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My experience with chrysals have been on hickory and a osage limb bow. The osage was poorly tillered by myself, but a patch and I was out to shoot it again. Took a young doe that fall with it. Still shoots 15 years later.Black locust bow I have, wide limbs, 68" long has several frets or chrysal on lower, working part of limb. Still shooting. took a big doe with it last year and some squirrels. It might fold up the next time I string it, but I'm not cutting it up! My oppinion, tillering and where the wood grew or how. I love black locust, hickory, was it pignut, butternut, shagbark, might make a differnce! Good shootin steve.
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My worst experiance was with a very expensive piece of Yew. I had the snake skins on and was shooting it in when the tell,tell cracks started to appear in the upper limb. I had taken a tad too much wood off in the recurve. I still have it and I'm going to fix it or make a kids bow out of it one day.
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Unlike Ryan I like Hickory and have only had one do that,I will say I do overbuild mine and always tiller
to just over the draw length of who is going to shoot it.As for my own bows I don't let anyone shoot them if there draw is much longer, and they aren't aware of how to use a selfbow.That
goes for any wood as far as I am concerned. :)
Pappy
I know what ya mean I am having that prob with Hickory, I'm pretty sure it's because I don't let it adjust to California Climate up her its dry but cool.
I just seen A Hickory bow I made back in 2007 at the Pawn shop someone resold and it had no chrysals but it had about 2" set. I like the Osage and Lemon wood and Yew Personally But Yew Cost to much,Phillip
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Unlike Ryan I like Hickory and have only had one do that,I will say I do overbuild mine and always tiller
to just over the draw length of who is going to shoot it.As for my own bows I don't let anyone shoot them if there draw is much longer, and they aren't aware of how to use a selfbow.That
goes for any wood as far as I am concerned. :)
Pappy
Exactly, Don't touch My Bow Unless I give it to ya :)
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My short Bows I never Have Chrysal Issues, I love them things Some people around here think there Youth Bows untill I show them The Arrow through the 1/2 plywood,serprizingly its the Bone points that go through ???off subject :) any way I don't have any more wood for Bows and I need to spark a deal with someone. So I can make A real West coast reproduction SO I guess I need Yew, I know. 50" by 2" ;)
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I have a lot of bowhunting students and relatives to "convert" ....I like to have a SHORT arrow or 2 on hand if anyone wants to try shootin' my bow- I draw 27, tiller to 28, but they only get to shoot it at 26! ;)
I did Chrysal my second osage by overdrawing it in my own convert days.
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I think it was hickory from Michigan not sure what type. I should let any wood I get from the north east set for a few months before I start makin bow with it.
Also I notice that Some People have a habit of holding draw with a wood bow for more than 2 seconds tend to have more limb damage tha'ts why i now try to inform every one that gets one of my bows to loose it soon as they reach draw and not to exceed the draw length written on the Bow.
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My experience with hicory has been fair at best. It likes to take set, draw moisture, and chrysals easily. I would much rather spend my time with osage. If hicory is what you have to make bows with I recomend heat treating the belly and to overbuild, it helps with the set issue and chrysals. Phill my osage holmie is just as good as the day I made it three years ago and has had thousands of arrows thru it and flight shot a lot at long draw lengths. Sorry your holmies are sick, really liked them. Kenneth
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I need to get more Osage to make a holmgaard never had any issues with Osage yet.
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I have had my share of the z cracks too. Most of them too dry of logust and propeller twist hickory. when i heat the twist out of the wood I found it weaken the cells and on the belly side it shows up. also had a kids slippery elm bow do it to me also . I am not convinced, its the bowyers fault I think its the flaw within the wood. I even had iron wood do it to me once. I repaired it and still shoot it once and a while.
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I guess to shoot them chrysal Bows Once in a while would be ok just be gentle with the Bow :)