Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kegan on April 13, 2009, 09:06:39 am
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I'm working on a new longbow, and while I was straightenning it it developed a crak on the outside of the limb. Didn't look like it was going to be a problem until, while shooting it in, it dry fired. So I sanded the spot down and laminated a piece of hornbeam on there. The hornbeamd begant to fret also (not as badly, but still).
I have some Osage scraps, and was wondering about gluing a thin strip of that on there to help. You think Osage, that thin, would hold up- or should I try another method to fix it?
The bow's 70" long, 1 1/2" wide, and 60# at 27".
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A fret is where the wood fibers break do to overstressing. You have to relieve the pressure at that point. You can either remove wood from either side of the fret or like Dean Torges did, remove that wood and replace it with a plug of an exact fit. Dean used a drum sander to grind out the fret then made the plug the same radius as the removed wood and glued it in with Urac.
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This is what Pat is talking about. This patch held up for three years of heavy shooting then the limb broke at the patch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Archery%20%20pics/limb_patch.jpg)
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Kegan what type wood is the bow made of? I'm working on a Cherry bow and took some deflex out of the limbs up by the fades and got a fret also. I didn't know why it fretted until reading your post here. I guess the straightening made it fret? ??? Would it hurt to leave the fret in the fade and super glue it? Don't mean to hijack your thread just wondering since it's on the same subject.
John
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John, it is probably bending too much right at the fret. I doubt super glue will help it out. You will need to releave the pressure from either side of the fret or at least the limb side.
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Thanks Pat. I have since takin wood off from both sides, as it was stiff in the fades when it happened. I wasn't sure if heating the deflex out did it or not.
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Thanks for the replies guys. This bow is hickory. The original crack wasn't caused by uneven pressure, but when the bow dry-fired the little crack that was jsut superficial became more pronuonced and I knew it I didn't do anything it wouldn't last as long.
I'll try a thicker Osage patch then :).
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The patch should probably be the same wood as the bow. An osage patch on a hickory bow could cause frets on either side of the patch.
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maybe i am just just really lucky, but i have had a couple cherry and persimmon bows fret on me in a few places, i never did anything about them and they are still holding up and shooting just fine. seems like i always cause more damage if i repair the fret than just leave it alone. of course those are on woods and sapling bows that are more prone to fretting as well, not a tough piece of hornbeam. - Ryan
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The patch should probably be the same wood as the bow. An osage patch on a hickory bow could cause frets on either side of the patch.
The point isn't lower. It's jsut a little crack on the side of the limb. Being that the patch is so very thin, hickory (like the hronbeam) seems like it would give out.
Testing tonight :).
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Birch bark (not just the outer bark), rawhide, etc glued over the the fret will work for who knows how long. I hate chrysls and frets. :( Jawge
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The Osage is holding up better than the hornbeam- not perfect, but it's working. It's raining right now, so I don't want to shoot it alot. I think I'll glue a small leather patch ontop of it and then wrap it off as well, just for insurance (and the wraps should make the finished bow look nice too).
Thanks everyone :)