Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: whitewoodshunter on March 25, 2009, 09:14:24 pm
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What kind of glue do you guys use for applying glue on points? A glue that is cheap?
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If you want the point to stay on no matter what I use a 2 part epoxy glue, don't use hot melt glue because if you are shooting into alot of 3D's the friction of the arrow going into the target, warms the glue back up and the head comes off. That will not happen with the epoxy glue.....
Thanks for your time.
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I use the ferrile tite... hot glue.. have never lost a point while hunting.. YET... the trick is to heat it up good and press until the glue hardens.. Hawk
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I have used ferrile tite for years and never have problems with my field tips coming off in three d targets. The trick is to clean the inside of the point with alcohol on a Q-tip first to get rid of the oils they put on them so they wont rust while on the shelf or in storage. Then do as Hawkbow said and heat it up real good and keep pressure on till cools. This also makes it easy to remove the point when the time comes.
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I use the amber Ferr-l-tite.
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I use the same as Pat,just be sure to clean the point first with alcohol or something like that
the will get the oil off where they have been made,if you don't do that sometimes you will have problems with them comming off. :)
Pappy
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I use Araldite Precision 2-pack epoxy. This takes 24 hours to fully harden. I wipe the insides of piles clean with white spirit or acetone to remove machining lube and swarf. One other secret, especially if you are using taper fit piles, and likely to be hitting hard targets (i.e trees etc) is to press a small groove into the taper cone which you have cut on the shaft to receive the pile. In this way no air bubble can build up between the pile, shaft and glue faces. The groove also ensures that excess glue is squeezed out of the joint, whcih can be used on the next shaft, saving money and ensuring even arrow lengths. Piles fitted in this way do not have any tendency to pop off when your arrow hits a roving or wayward tree.
Hope that helps. 8)
//Bob
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Got in a rush one day and used TBIII and it worked fine. Like said, get the lube off first.
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pine pitch for my stone points with deer sinew. cheap!!!! and durible
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I have used FerrlTite for years also and have not had problems until the last 2 years.
About the only field points available are made by PDP and sold by just about everyone.
I have had a number of complaints about points pulling off in targets (bales and 3-D)
I checked the points carefully an I have determined that there is some machine residue inside the tapered ferrule. Worse on some points than others.
I now swab with a Q tip dipped in alcohol and it seems to get most of the oily stuff out. I have been told that it is a good idea to also sracth the inside with a sandpaper cone to 'rough up' the surface for better bond.
This has become a lot of extra work that was not a problem with points I used to get back in ancient history.
I have not had issue with any brand of glue on broadhead I have used or sold.
The problem with 2 part epoxy on wood arrow points is that you cannot change them out if you want to. The wood will scorch before the heat is enough to 'pop' them off.
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Dear Whitewoodshunter, You did not specify what kind of point you wish to glue onto your arrow. Most your replies assume you are talking about commercially available field or target or broadhead points. There are some that have a parallel wall and slide over the untapered shaft. The cheap sheet metal chromed plated points for kid's arrows use a sort of plier or crimping tool. You could just set with a nail set or sharp nail for that kind. Ferrule tite is heated and when melted, rubbed onto the tapered shaft by touching it to the shaft you rotate by hand. When it sets, you heat the base of your point with a flame. The point is held with pliers. When sufficiently hot, press hard onto the ferrule tite coated shaft and hold tight until it starts to set and when it doesn't move much, quickly dip the arrow and head into a soup can of cold water. Cross drilling and counter sinking and then rivetting in a brass escutcheon nail will make it pretty permanent. Epoxy if not set in warm conditions can pop off with impact in real hot weather. You can take a tapered tap and cut some threads into the inside of the soft steel field point. You should use a thick thread cutting oil. Wash off the oil with lacquer thinner or the more expensive acetone before glueing. Tanged trade points of metal, stone points, handforged socket points are another matter. We used to take the cap of a poop bottle and fold it into thirds to make a cheap point.P.S. on the threaded field point. Squirt some Tite Bond III into the cavity and screw the tapered shaft into the point. They make steel and some brass field points that are made with the threads built into the point. You'll likely get tips for hafting points other than field or target points if you specify other kinds. Hope that helps. P. S. S. I meant to write the cap off of a pop (soda) bottle. My bad.