Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: youngbowyer on January 20, 2009, 09:18:03 am
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there haven't been any post lately on arrows and arrows r my favorite things so show us your best set of medieval arrows!
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Here ya go, my first and only medieval arrows (will be making some more):
http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq175/Englishwarbowman/?albumview=slideshow
Nick L.
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thanks you're always the first one to post when i post something i really appreciate that!
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No prob. I only wish i had more time to make more arrows.
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Nice arrows Nick. I would hate to be in a tin can and have those shot at me. :o
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Here's a few for you....Enjoy.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/1a514512.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/Trio.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/trio2.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/ArmourHead.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/Head.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/WedgeNock.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/FullArrow.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/IMG_2098.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/GaulingHead.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/Fletch.jpg)
Here some of the MR arrows.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/ArrowsandstevesReplica.jpg)
This one shows the Verdigris on the shaft and also the marks where the silk binding was.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/MRArrow2.jpg)
Oh and here is a picture my sister drew for me ....cool eh
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/stevesjem/CherylArcher.jpg)
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Thanks for posting those guys. I'm working on a set myself. I've just got to get some heads.
John
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Some heads from John Marshall
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/heads.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/points6-1.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/DSCI0001.jpg)
Hector Cole heads.
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/type163.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/sot18.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/towtonsideview1.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/Copyoftowton2.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/Tudor%20War%20Arrows/arras007.jpg)
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Wicked cool! >:D
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well i was all happy making pics of my new arrows when my camera blew it. Yup it's broken so sry cant post pics.
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here's a couple. top is a hazel shoot from a copice stool. bottom is american black walnut (102 grams). both are fletched with dropped canadian goose feathers, shape is cut by following the grease line. hazel is still a bit wobbly down the length (but improving), goes where it's pointed but likes to scan the area on its way ;)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j203/a750triton/20012009252.jpg)
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Beautiful arrows epsecially like the horn inserts good job!
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One of my recent. MR replica: 30.5" from valley of nock to base of head, 1/2" ash tapering to 3/8" at nock, horn re-enforced nock 1/8" wide X 1/4" deep, 7" hand cut triangular feathers, hand forged head, total weight 80 grams.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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very nice especially the nock!
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i made these quite a while ago now, and have lost all of them in lakes and tree's on roving marks ;D
some were bound and some weren't ;)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o77/sgt-ratman/PICT0048.jpg)
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very neat binding
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Nice arrows there Ratty, shame you lost them ;)
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Haven't made any war arrows in a long time but here are some old pics
Damascus Swallow tails with cinnamon and white peacock
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/lloydwwinter/Archery/swallowtailsfulllength-1.jpg)
type 7s
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/lloydwwinter/Archery/Type7.jpg)
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Very nice arrows. im almost done sorry crappy pictures
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Horn Nock
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/AnLoki/dsci0004fl0.jpg)
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Loki, Do you cut a wedge from the wood or spread the wood to accept the horn?
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Cut a wedge in the shaft then shape the horn to fit it,glue the horn in then shape the nock ;D.
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Nice nock Loki! :o ;D ;)
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I am just getting some new ones done. My old set has just about had it!
Here is some in progress pics:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/horninserts.jpg)
Some Yew to start your moring right!
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/shafts1.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/shaftscloseup.jpg)
Steve
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Ok, first of all, those arrows are a piece of art! truly i mean this!!! ;) Couple of questions how do you get that horn insert so nicely done, what tools do you use for it? What kinds of shafts are they, and those heads are from mark stretton right?
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Ok, first of all, those arrows are a piece of art! truly i mean this!!! ;) Couple of questions how do you get that horn insert so nicely done, what tools do you use for it? What kinds of shafts are they, and those heads are from mark stretton right?
wait no, those heads are from richard head right?
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Thanks Younbowyer. This is how I do it:
1. 4. Use a rasp to shape the end of the arrow. I start with 1/4 sawn polar planks and cut them to 1/2" staves, then round them to 1/2" dowels then i do the horn.
2. Make horn wedges. I like to make the actual wedges. That way the fit nicer. I have seen a lot of arrows that are done with more of a slab. These look good if done well but I prefer the wedge look. Makes them look sleek.
3. I use a hacksaw to cut a 2" slot into the shaft. Then I use a very small flat file to flatten and open the slot.
4. Fit the wedge....everne will fit a bit differnt so I make the slot and the wedge together and keep them matched up through the process. Glue the wedge ina nd wrap with line tightly to snug it together.
5. I then taper the shaft all the way from the tip 1/2" to the nock 3/8". I do this with a long belt sander.
6. Sand them with 150, 220,400, steel wool and then finish them up. make sure yiu spend some time with the steel wool on the horn. Get it to shine a bit.
I hope that helps you.
I am not sure where the heads came from. My wife des all of my oredering. I tell her what I need she finds it. I will let you know where she got them when she gets home later.
Steve
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Ok thanks! I have been looking all over for one of those small files though i can't find any so what i do is get a thin steel ruler and put sandpaper around it. Are you going to be post more pictures as you progress?
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I essentially, do the same way as yew archer (can be seen in the pictures I posted), except I use a tennon saw to cut the slots and find the wedge can be cut to fit nice.
How far down I taper the shafts depends on what sort of weight I want and where the balance point needs to be.
I have 2 long blocks with strips of sanding belt fixed to them. the blocks are then fixed to a board, 1/2" apart at one end, 3/8" at the other. then hold an over length arrow shaft in a pistol drill and run the shaft at slow speed between the blocks, from wide end end to narrow. I can adjust the taper between the blocks to suit what I need and how long the taper needs to be. used belts are ok but they get hot and don't cut so well.
I don't know if you can get them there but I use carburundum coated foam blocks for finishing off the sanding. sort of wrap it around the shaft and sand lengthways.
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ohhh man! ya learn something new everyday!
"I have 2 long blocks with strips of sanding belt fixed to them. the blocks are then fixed to a board, 1/2" apart at one end, 3/8" at the other. then hold an over length arrow shaft in a pistol drill and run the shaft at slow speed between the blocks, from wide end end to narrow. I can adjust the taper between the blocks to suit what I need and how long the taper needs to be."
Thats a great method. Thank you for sharing!
Steve
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if that explanaition is as clear as mud, I'll sort a picture but don't hold your breath ;)
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Nope, It makes perefect sence. I have been wraking my brain to think of a jig and there it is.
Thanks again!
Steve
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Yewarcher pleaso post more pictures as you cotinue with that set of arrows. What color feather are you gonna give e'm grey and white?
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Will do. I am fletching them right now with white. I will get to the whippings hopefully in the next few days.
Steve
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ohhh man! ya learn something new everyday!
"I have 2 long blocks with strips of sanding belt fixed to them. the blocks are then fixed to a board, 1/2" apart at one end, 3/8" at the other. then hold an over length arrow shaft in a pistol drill and run the shaft at slow speed between the blocks, from wide end end to narrow. I can adjust the taper between the blocks to suit what I need and how long the taper needs to be."
Thats a great method. Thank you for sharing!
Steve
Agree 100%, that was a light bulb moment. Thanks Triton!
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No problem fellas. My MK1 was a bit ropey, then I saw another using nice coach bolts and proper slotted holes at the adjustable end.
I have another method that the bowyer I'm working under uses. 2 pieces of wood about 2" wide, 3-4" long with a V cut up the middle of each and strips of sanding belt fixed long their length to cover and pushed into the 'V'. the pieces of wood are then joined with a couple of hinges so when you look at them end on, there's a square hole. shafts can be spun with the jig lightly gripped on the shaft, then run back and forth working more where more wood has to be removed.
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I just got hold of a nice straight grained poplar board but sawing it out just takes too long. Is there any other way i can do this?
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Is there a woodwork or joinery shop near enough? I can't get wet logs through my band saw, so I bung a few quid to a local joiners shop to put it through their resaw.
Is it yellow Poplar (Tulip wood)?
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I dont know what kind of poplar it is but i can tell you a few of its characteristics
It is very dense
It has some purple spots on it
and a good straight grain.
The only thing that is near me is the lowes and the home depot but i dont think they do it so i might just rent a bandsaw.
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so sorry for the inconvinence.
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Nice arrows ;) next time you might want to use a ruler for the wippings so it is neater. But great arrows!!!
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Nice display. one thing I've been meaning to make is a bow rack.
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Thanks for the tip youngbowyer but I prefer them that way. When ruled out and consistant they look to well.....ruled out and consistant. ;)
Steve
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Excellent Arrows!nice Bows too ;D
I've never used a ruler to space my whipping but i try to get them as neat as possible,it can be quite a chore :-\.
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Yes, i do as well when selling them or for display. These are my shooting arrows. I dont know about you fellas but I break um and loose um. I never spend much time on my personall arrows as I know I wont have them long. With all of the bows I shoot and how much I shoot I make 100's of arrows every year.
Steve
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;D I've managed to hang on to mostly the same arrows for about 8 months now.
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Your doing good!
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I don't use a ruler but it was just a tip i just thought of. I try to get the whippings nice and spaced too. i usually mkae 2-3 sets a year depending on my parents as they sometimes go,"what! you need more arrows again, you just ordered stuf" so some times i only have like 7 arrows to shoot with. Yeah i lose a lot of them and sometimes break em when i straighten them.
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Steve,
They are supposed to look even and consistent. That is how livery shafts were done.
Instead of using a ruler, you can hold a pin and count and pick apart as you go along.
If you like them irregular, take a look at the whipping on the so-called replica English shafts in TTBB4 and tell me what you think of them....
Rod.
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opps, sorry there fellas. i forget how precisly you need to say things on these boards. ::)
I like them that way for my personall arrows because they are quick and easy to do. I shoot a LOT and loose a LOT of arrows so do not spend much time on my personall arrows. thats not including all the arrows I loose at expos and shows when people try and shoot them at shows. I sell these, I make these for US warbow entusiasts and when i do I make them consistant. I did mention that already.
Often I find myself regretting even posting on these boards as It seems that people just love to find something wrong with what you are doing and feel the need to coment.
I will remove my photos as to not offend your superior tastes by looking at my "field" bang around arrows. So sorry for troubling you fellas with my shoody craftsmanship.
Steve
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Steady there Steve (yewArcher) ;) I understood what you were saying. Personally I don't whip my own arrows. Looks nice but can't be bothered with it. If aunthenticity is needed then I'd use silk thread to cut drag, covered with perhaps some pva with something snot green mixed in. I only whip the shaftment just below the knock as a belkt belt and braces approach, in case the shaft splits. Which incidently has only happened on pine arrows but not on Hazel or yellow poplar (tulipwood).
icindentally, in the "great warbow" by Strickland/Hardy, there's a picture and description of the Westminster arrow. It says the knock reinforcement was inserted across the grain. A personal friend who saw many years ago (memory has faded) says it's difficult to tell which way the knock was cut as it's made from poplar and as it was found on the roof of the abbey, it's gone black.
I intend to make an arrow with the reinforcemnt as described in the book to test if it works any better.
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opps, sorry there fellas. i forget how precisly you need to say things on these boards. ::)
I like them that way for my personall arrows because they are quick and easy to do. I shoot a LOT and loose a LOT of arrows so do not spend much time on my personall arrows. thats not including all the arrows I loose at expos and shows when people try and shoot them at shows. I sell these, I make these for US warbow entusiasts and when i do I make them consistant. I did mention that already.
Often I find myself regretting even posting on these boards as It seems that people just love to find something wrong with what you are doing and feel the need to coment.
I will remove my photos as to not offend your superior tastes by looking at my "field" bang around arrows. So sorry for troubling you fellas with my shoody craftsmanship.
Steve
I do not want you to remove the pics and i do not like finding other people's mistakes. I was just trying to help you.
Tom.
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Hello All.
My first post on here: some photos of 2 sets of arrows I have finally(!) finished. Standard Arrows and Livery/Mary Rose arrows.
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1782.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1776.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1778.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1773.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1767.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1771.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1893.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1896.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1897.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1898.jpg)
Comments/questions welcome
Purbeck
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Descriptions dind't copy over! So:
1st 6 photos are EWBS Livery/Mary Rose Arrows (80 odd g). 31 1/2" ash shafts tapered 1/2" to 3/8", 7 1/2" x 3/4" turkey feathers bound with red silk.
Heads are Hector Cole Chippenham Type 1 Broadhead and John Marshall Tudor Bodkin
2nd 4 photos Standard Arrows (52g). 31 1/2" poplar shafts 3/8" parrallel, 6" by 3/4" turkey feathers, right angle cut, bound with red silk.
Heads are Hector Cole 3/8" Heavy War Bodkins with a 1/2" version of the same alongside from the Livery arrow set for comparision
Purbeck
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Impressive arrows ;) Like the horn inserts as well as the binding. Did you have to polish the heads up yourself or did hector do it for you.
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YB - the heads came like that from HC.
I am now looking around for some very heavy bodkins and shafts to make some of the EWBS Quarter Pounder arrows!
Purbeck
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Try a heavy quarel head for that. Maybe contact John Marshall. What poundage bow do you shoot?
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I am now looking around for some very heavy bodkins and shafts to make some of the EWBS Quarter Pounder arrows!
Purbeck
I have to change the head on mine as it's 10g light but I made one from American black walnut. nice and heavy ;D. Ash should come up to weight easy enough
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YB - have contacted JM and others. 109 lb @30" laminate warbow at the moment
Triton - thanks, am trying to find ash parallel shafts but not finding it easy! American Walnut wood sounds good (got a pic?)
Purbeck
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not such a good picture, doesn't really do the wood or the finish justice but there's a pic of a couple of my arrows on page 1 of this topic.
If you're going to the Staunton Harold Finsbury mark 8th March, I can bring a shaft for you.
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YB - have contacted JM and others. 109 lb @30" laminate warbow at the moment
Triton - thanks, am trying to find ash parallel shafts but not finding it easy! American Walnut wood sounds good (got a pic?)
Purbeck
Try Diyarchery (stevesjem owns that) they have a variety of shafts but the 3/8 ash shafts are out of stock birch should make a good subsitute as it is very dense and heavy.
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Em shure are some perty arrers yaw!
mikki
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Hello All.
My first post on here: some photos of 2 sets of arrows I have finally(!) finished. Standard Arrows and Livery/Mary Rose arrows.
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1782.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1776.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1778.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1773.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1767.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/New%20Ash%20Arrows/IMGP1771.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1893.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1896.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1897.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/epnwarner/Standard%20Arrows/IMGP1898.jpg)
Comments/questions welcome
Purbeck
The broadhead, is that a hector cole head?? I love the look and ive been looking for some that shape
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It does look like his Chipenham type 1.
(http://www.hectorcoleironwork.com/images/Chip.%20type%201.jpg)