Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: ravenbeak on January 10, 2009, 03:29:11 pm
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I am about to attempt my first splice job and looking for some help.
I can't decide on the Z splice or the W splice, which do you prefer?
and how do you feel about drilling the hole and using a dowel to prevent slippage?
thanks guys,
cheers,
Jamie
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Jamie, A "Z" splice is the easiest and if both halves are prepared correctly, you can cut both at the same time allowing them to match better. There is no reason to pin the splice with a dowel. That will actually weaken the spliced area. Take your time with the cuts. Do a dry run to be sure the splices fit each other and if they are a little off you can heat both halves, push the splice together and clamp until cool. This will help the glue surfaces to mate. I just learned this not long ago from Eric K. Pat
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thanks pat,
I am currently during practice runs, using the Z on 2x4's. I have been cutting them seperately and have been getting decent fits,
I will do a practice with cutting them together,
thanks for the advice regarding the dowel,
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If you have a camera, take a few pics to show others how its done. Pat
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good idea- will do
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ok,
can the splice extend into the fades at all or should it be only in the harrow section of the handle?
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A 4" splice is all you need and it should be centered in the handle. You don't want any bending at all around the splice. You will have to cut your handle shape width wise before you cut the splice or loose most of it when the handle is shaped. Pat
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I did test pieces of 2x4 - one set cut seperately and one set cut together, the set cut together turned out much nicer.
I then did a test of the the short limbs left over from my billets and cut them together. They didn't turn out very nice, quite a lot of twist. The splice wasn't very pretty but I glued them up anyways with a 2 part epoxy and clamped them, and they are currently drying.
for the nice set I think I am going to cut them seperately, I didn't like the stacked setup as the backs are not perfectly flat and things wanted to shift.
'
so here goes,
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alright, I've got the z splice cut in my good billets and things seem to line up pretty good.
I have heard talk about getting the splice wet and clamping it before gluing to improve the fit, so, should i just go ahead and soak both ends or steam them, or does it matter.
thanks again,
i've been taking pics so when it's done i'll post it in the build alongs,
cheers,
Jamie
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I've steamed splices to get a better fit but now, I hate getting moisture in an already dry stave. The dry heat, like Eric suggested, would do the same without the moisture.
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I'm with Pat on the dowels. The only time I tried that, the handle split right through the middle of the dowel holes after about a hundred shots.
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thanks guys,
I did end up steaming the splices, I was also hesitant about getting moisture into the dry wood, but i haven't played around with heat guns much as of yet, and I was worried about over heating the thin points of the cuts.
the handle is clamped up now and will be for a couple days, it is amazing what a difference that made. the splice looks way way better than it did before heating and clamping.
I won't be using the dowel,
as for glue, what do you guys use?
thanks,
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urac 185 hands down for splices i wont use anything else for it brock
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First of all a Z splice is fine most of the time but if you are planning on making a narrowed handle a W splice is a much better choice. You can make the splice shorter and still keep the same strength, I make mine 2". It is a bit more effort to get the fit just right but when you narrow the handle much of the splice is left since the length of the splice fits inside your hand. With a Z splice when you narrow the handle and the arrow pass you actually weaken the splice to where it can let go since you are cutting away supporting wood on both sides of the splice, been there done that. You've already cut your splice so just be careful when you shape the handle
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I like my splices to hide completely under the handle leather so I often make them shorter than 4", usually between 3" and 4". I always put a cap on the shorter splices for added strength like the one in the picture. I only make Z splices and have never has one come apart, I only use Urac-185, nothing else.
Here is the cap picture, gluing the extra piece on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/limbreplacement10.jpg)
Shaped and finished.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/arrowrest.jpg)
I always glue on a block for a rest and shape it to the above configuration. After my first cut in rest bow broke at the cut, I haven't cut in another sight window and rest since.
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If you can, seal the back of the area you steamed or at least watch it well because as the moisture leaves the wood it could cause checking. Pat
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Couple of little things to remember when cutting splices, I always get the belly side of the splice perfectly flat and square before I cut, I also use a square on the bandsaw blade before cutting, if the wood is crooked I aim the center line of the splice at the tip of the limb and draw my lines from there. I do a lot of splicing and got tired of going for a perfect fit on all of them so I switched to smooth on epoxy for my glue and use four clamps. I am going to try Marks method for more center shot bows, presently I cut my splice at 7/8 wide 4" long and dont narrow the arrow pass much afterward. Steve
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thanks guys,
I think for the future I will look into getting some urac 185.
for this one I used regular carpenters "yellow" glue, after reading it would be ok in tbb vol 1. I hope it works out.
I am considering doing a build up on the back or belly, or both to add some more strength as I really don't want this one to come apart.
I was also thinking of tightly wrapping the splice with linen string and soaking in wood glue, hoping this will add a bit.
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If your joints are good, carpenters glue is stronger than the surrounding wood. But I have always used URAC. I prefer W splices too, for the extra surface area, which is absolutely essential and basically "free."
Steves comments about flat surfaces, properly angled for the setback or deflex you want I'd add. Also having a perfect 90 on your bandsaw.
I don't pin splices, but the rationale is to get the fit just like you want, deflex/reflex or whatever, then run the pin holes. Then when you assemble w/ glue it's easy to get back exactly to that config w/ the dowels as an aid. Anybody whose done many splices knows they can get pretty squirrelly once the slick glue gets on. Pins do not improve the joint necessarily, but should not much impair the joint either. Least not enough to matter, on a properly fit W. Some really good bowyers do pin, but for the aforementioned reason.
Right or wrong, I try to put my arrow pass at the top, if you will, of the W.